Surf: Waist High+ dumpy, mushy waves. Warm and Sunny.
It’s good to be back. 5 days on dry hot earth is too much and the pile of work waiting for me when I got back wasn’t helping.
Surfed a short bit. Got a few waves in. Saw a dolphin take a wave on in inside.
Chris got lots of stellar long lefts in. Nice work.
Great sunset over the water. ++
Here’s on parting image from the desert experience. Gotta love the west coast where even camping involves funny costumes and hats.
Surf: Waist-Chest High, less consistent.
Yay! Freckled and happy. I got to watch a nice looooong sunset and catch a few waves. Wave quality was better in the am but I’m more than happy to doublestack my stoke. I saw both Chris and Aaron get some nice rights. Crowd was crowded, but mostly friendly. Saw a few faces from this morning out there. 😀
With the crowd I had to take a few slightly close drops. Sorry to the newbies on the inside I gave heart attacks to. I got a night left right around Aaron. Next time I’m gonna high five him and we’ll both get signed.
Surf: Waist-Chest High. Consistent.
Look at that blue sky. Blue! And all of a sudden it’s summer in San Francisco. The parking lots were packed and I found myself in the very foreign situation of walking barefoot across hot sand. Yup, hot sand. Just like a beach anywhere else in August.
Waves were fun, but a little crowded. Lately I’ve been pulling some funky grab rail action to get trim and dodge folks camping on the inside. Got a few fun ones. It’s nice to chill in the lineup with sun on my face and barefoot feet. Such a treat to surf in the sunshine.
Surf: Knee to Waise high, junky.
Yeah, it was junky. Yeah the wind was on it and warbling it up. But hey, it was pretty dang fun. Poor wave quality but def a good time. Like most Linda Mar summer days, it favored those with foam. One spot breaking pretty well but Chris and I went for the surfari and rode the current up the beach checking out a few more. Some good shoulders. Much crumbly crumbling.
Surf: Knee-Waist High. Junky.
Pretty low expectations once again exceeded. Spent about 4 hours paddling around catching waves here and there, running in to friends. In the last hour or so of the session I was looking out to sea and saw a pretty big something jump pretty far away from us. Something big with a white belly and some serious heft.
Since it’s shark week on discovery, I’m not going to speculate. The ocean’s plenty wild and this season’s been rather active for animals of all sort. It spooked a few people, the rest of us kept on surfing. Seeing a quick glance of something very far away isn’t enough to know what is was. Dolphin, whale, big fish. Whatever it was it was far off and doing it’s ocean wildlife thing.
To put it in perspective I’ve surfed over a hundred times, once seen something like this and once been in the water when someone else had experienced something like this. It’s their ocean, the fishes, the mammals, the critters, and the plants. I’m doing my best to be considerate of them and I certainly hope they return the favor.
Surf: Knee high with some pretty strong sideshore winds. Rideable.
Snuck out for another afternoon session before the brunt of this week’s work is expected to hit. There was a small group just tearing up this peeling wave at the middle of the beach. Nose riding, all that fancy stuff.
I drifted more to the north, getting some decent rides in. One right in to the sand. One left on the outside wave, then jumping back for a peeling right on the inside. More barefoot surf time in. Good way to kick off the week!
Surf: Knee high waves, inconsistent and a little crumbly.
Work this week was pretty brutal. After finishing my project I race out the door and on to the waves. Little crowded out there but catchable and offering a few good rides here and there. The mellow waves this summer has offered up are proving some long rides and a great connection to the inside waves. Nearly all my rides were right to the beach. More barefoot surfing. We’ll see if I can hold out all summer.
Didn’t eat anything all day. Thoroughly DEMOLISHED some tacos after.
Surf: Waist high, surprisingly well shaped given the wind, warm water FULL of jellies.
Headed out after work with low expectations. Water was still warm and the waves had shaped up since the day before.
Plenty of fun rides. Lots of nice little lefts and sections to chase. I managed to somehow park myself in a complete swarm of little jellies just as it was getting darkish and hard to see. Yick yick. Surfing barefoot with jellies is a littler slippery.
All and all, pretty low expectations were exceeded. Grabbed some Pho after to round out the night. Score!
Surf: Waist high waves. A few chest high sets. Warm water.
It’s amazing how warm water can really brighten up a surf session. Had some pretty low expectations for this post work surf, but man was it worth it.
The air and water were so warm I skipped the booties for a barefoot ride.
It was pretty dang fun out there. Managed to get a little air on one wave and stick the landing. It was a total fluke so I laughed all the way in to the beach. Also got a nice long ride on a pretty sizeable wave compared to what I usually pick up. Head High according to Max.
I paddled back to Max and Chris hooting that I’d made it. I tend to go for the little waves no one else wants but was perfectly set up for that one. It was bumpy, a little funky, and I wasn’t sure I was going to make it, but I got it. 😀
We surfed till sunset and packed up in the dark.
I love summer and I’m having a lot of fun rocking the single fin.
Surf: 4-6ft, some larger sets. Little bit choppy, but surprisingly clean for the size and the howling winds elsewhere.
Left work early to sneak in a little sunset surfing. The sunset was beautiful. Big gold waves moody clouds. The surf was big. I tend to get skittish around 4ft on the longboard. It’s a lot of board to have in the water. Even with the 9′ (which is meant to be ridden on a bigger, steeper wave), I was making whimpering noises paddling out.
The waves were fairly clean so the paddle out wasn’t hard. I was doing my best to avoid going for a wave, but did finally stop being a complete wuss long enough to catch two nice waves, probably the biggest I’ve caught. definitely the biggest I’ve caught and held a clean line all the way down. That 9′ can really fly.
I had a pretty exciting wipeout too. Over the falls, me and to board held down by the wash, bouncing along the sandy bottom. Oooof. I laughed it off because it must have looked spectacular. I also gave my friends on shore another good laugh watching me get caught inside on a BIG set just after sunset. I must have spent 10 minutes scratching over waves, diving under them, being a tiny dot in a big blue grey wall, before I caught one that had already broken and bellied in to shore. Whew.
