Surf: 9.8 ft at 13.8 s from the WNW at 290°
The forecast was stacked with big swell after big swell. I wanted to get out, have been worried it’d be too big. Today looked a little rough and a little thumping, but turned out to be nice enough. Lots of chop. Plenty of waves. The heart is back on the hillside, which is nice. That with some warm air made for a nice late afternoon surf.
Surf: 3.0 ft at 10.0 s from the WNW at 288°. Breezy. Incoming.
Snuck in a late sunset session after little Leo’s birthday party. The surf was junky, small, with lots of wind on it, but it wasn’t all that bad. I haven’t surfed since our trip but manages to get in a little cross stepping and overall felt pretty good on my board, making my way around some sections to get the most out of the waves that occasionally rolled through.
Couple of whales and dolphins out there. Lovely weather.
Dowside, my neck is really hurting. Going to stay out of the water a bit longer till I can get it sorted out. Oww.
Surf: 3.3 ft at 16.7 s from the SW at 216°. High tide.
The swell has come down a bit, but it’s still a little lumpy. The rides were longer and I spent less time dodging waves so that was a relief. What I was hoping for was some rides where I could reliably work on my steps and these bumps were making it hard.
Still, it’s a lovely spot and, if you can’t get the good rides yourself, there’s plenty of people you can watch turn a crumbly, bumpy wave into a ride worthy of a magazine cover. I love watching people surf down here. What style!
Surf: 3.9 ft at 18.2 s from the SW at 221°. High tide.
Friday night we rolled in on the late side. The surf was looking smooth, but large and closed out. I will admit the size was the biggest thing I was nervous about on the whole trip. The San Onofre bluffs remind me of Montara. Sure it’s a gentler, warmer Montara, but I didn’t want to see what her bad side looked like. I’d been out there at just about head high and it was intimidating looking but gentle. At double over head, I was thinking gentle might no longer be an option. In my mind I kept seeing double overhead ocean beach or double overhead pleasure point and all the carnage that comes with. I spent most of the time leading up to the trip worrying about just this thing. I wanted to participate in the Miscreant Melee, but I did not want to get thrashed about just to say I did it.
Saturday morning we walked down the trail to see if there was anything rideable. From the cliffs it was beautiful. Lines to the horizon and it looked pretty glassy. The only problem? They were mile-2 mile long closeouts. Ouch. Some of the Miscreants were still out, hurling themselves into closeouts. They were all smiling when they got out, but I passed and opted to catch up with folks on land instead.
By the time Saturday evening came around, I said I’d be willing to go look at Old Man’s. I was still not sold on this whole big swell idea, but some campmates near us asked to join so I figured I’d wind up in the water anyway.
On positive note, we can convert the van back to passenger mode super fast! Since the seats are under the bed, we just rolled up the bed and poof, seats!
The surf however, was bumpy and still pretty large. I got a couple waves, but spent a lot of the session dodging well overhead waves I did not want any part of. Chris got a few good ones, but we cut the session short when his leash rope snapped.
It was nice to watch the sunset from Old Man’s. What a beautiful spot. The surf culture, the waves, the cliffs, it’s all pretty magical. Hoping it’s smaller tomorrow so I can get a longer, less stressed out session in.
Friday evening, when the buoys were 4.6 ft at 20.0 s from the SW at 218°
Saturda morning: 4.6 ft at 18.2 s from the SW at 222° on the low tide. Lots of surf fishermen out.
Surf: 2.3 ft at 16.7 s from the S at 184°. Breezy.
After a nap back at the campsite, we headed back to C street where the wind was up again. With the wind up, I’ve been wearing my hood to keep my ears dry. I look like a dork, but better than making my surfer’s ear worse.
People at C street were really friendly. No weird looks paddling out all bundled up and everyone was cheering each other on. I think part of it has to do with all the people standing on the shore grumbling about how they thought it’d be better rather than paddline out, but the rest was genuine stoke.
I got a couple bigger waves and a guy was clapping and cheering. I was howling for a couple kids on shortboards who were killing it. Oh man it was fun. I almost don’t want to keep on driving south.
Hit up Lure for dinner and demolished another large delicious meal. We haven’t bought provisions yet so we’re hitting up some great restaurants until we hit the final camping spot. So far this trip’s had good waves, good camping, good food, and good company. Super stoked.
Surf: 2.0 ft at 20.0 s from the S at 182°. High tide. Windy.
We packed up the van this morning and headed south.The new van handles pretty well and was a snap to load up. We made pretty good time, hitting Paso Robles for a delicious lunch and C Street for a sunset surf.
The wind was on it when we rolled up, but it was nice to get in and get wet after all that heat coming down the 101. While a little rough aroudn the edges, the surf was pretty fun! There was enough shape to keep us paddling back out and enough close outs to keep us on our toes.
Hit up a Himalayan place for dinner and made it to the campsite just in time to set up as the sun was going down. It wouldn’t be a surfcamp trip if we didn’t set up at least one campsite in the dark! Luckily the van was a breeze to convert to sleeping mode. Ther first night wasn’t without it’s tossing and turning, but it was really comfortable in there. Chris did a fantastic job outfitting this thing. So stoked to finally be on our trip!
Surf: 5.3 ft at 16.0 s from the W at 270°
Wooof. Between celebrating last night and surfing my butt of yesterday, I was tired today. I got one wave and spent the rest of the time huffing and puffing. Chris got some good ones, so I had a little vicarastoke. I figure if I’m too tired to paddle, I can always watch other folks getting good rides.
This sunset session was even COLDER than yesterday. I followed it up with some Pho, but it took hours to get warm again. I like morning sessions better. Sure it’s freezing when you suit up, but by the time you’re wrapping up, the sun is up and it’s a degree or two warming. 🙂
Surf: 3.9 ft at 13.8 s from the W at 276°
Yewhew, that was a fun little surf.
I snuck out early from work and hit the beach with the hull. I’ve been out of the water for the holidays and since I don’t normally ride this little board I’m always really stoked to get waves. SUPER stoked to get GOOD waves at that. I found a nice little corner where I could grab all the waves going wide and zip down the line. There were a few really steep ones where the hull just sang. Normally I worry about this board when it gets really steep (I’ve gone off the nose, falling down the wave end over end) but it worked!
In the end my toes were numb, it was nearly pitch black out, and I was stoked.
Surf: 4.3 ft at 10.8 s from the WNW at 288°.
I snuck out from work early to head to the beach. Unfortunately the surf was closed out and pretty choppy, but I had been out of the ocean for far too long so I jumped in for a little bodysurfing. Nice to be salty again.
Surf: 1.6 ft at 15.4 s from the SW at 215°
Half the camp packed up today and headed out today. Usually the SF folks stay around another day, but otherwise the site’s pretty empty. Got in a few more waves and another sunset surf. It was fun, Surf a Pig Luau! Can wait to see everyone next year.
