Tag: sayulita

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Getting Frustrated

Surf: Knee-Shoulder high. Glassy.

Pout snarl growl snarl. Okay okay, taking a new board on a trip might not have been the best idea. I’m really struggling to get into waves and having a hard time with the crowds a Sayulita. Yeah, I know it sucks when you’re break is overrun by tourists, but man, between the kids and the tourists, sitting inside was getting scary. Sitting further outside I plain wasn’t getting in to anything.

I don’t think I’m paddling properly. I feel like I’m getting close to getting into the wave and just not making it. There’s a lot of timing work I need to do and being on a new board and an unfamiliar break is not the place to do it. I’m also getting cooked in this heat. Even early in the morning I’m roasting. It’s not helping me keep things in perspective.

Leaving the beach, I was waiting for Aaron to buy some pastries when I felt a weird tug on my board. I look back to see a street dog gumming away at my tail. I stared at it, and it quit with no damage to the board, but that was just enough to put me over the edge to really grumpy.

Time to surf somewhere else.

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Crowded.

Surf: Waist to Shoulder High.

By evening, the surf had come up and so had the attitude.

Lots of people in the water including local boys who were shoving each other off waves, dropping in on everyone and their brother, and generally being cocky teenage boys.

I got into a few waves, but had to either swing left to avoid the fray, or kick out. Left was shallow and rough. I skinned my knee pretty good on the coral. Yeoow.

A storm started to roll in and we headed up the beach for drink’s at a friend of Johan’s. I showed up bloody and full of sea urchin spines. Johan’s friend grabbed me a first aid kit and a beer. Patched back up in no time and got to watch the lightning over the sea from a lovely porch on the beach.

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Not as easy

Surf: Knee to Chest high. Glassy.

Aaron and I got up early to Hit Sayulita again. The sun doesn’t come up till 8am, so “dawn” patrol is pretty relative.

There was a fleet of French women out, swooping in on all the waves. I snuck in a few as ALL of the women would take the same wave at the same time so I could pretty much pick up the next wave.

I was still struggling tho.

The first day had been so easy. Now I couldn’t get into anything. I was paddling so hard and getting nothing. I don’t know what happened. :\

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Sunset bodysurf

Surf: Knee to Shoulder high shorebreak.

Picked up some DaFins before this trip, just for beachies like this. Too whomp to surf (tho there were some local kids picking off rides that ended on dry sand more times than I’d care to take on) but plenty fun on your belly.

Above picture if of Johan bodysurfing a right, and Scott boogie boarding a left. I kinda kept chickening out. I did NOT want a face full off sand. I did finally manage to get some real rides in.

After wearing myself out, I opted for the beach. I peeled off my rashie to find that at some point during thie bodysurf bonanza, I’d scooped up a minnow in my shirt. Poor little dude. Back to the sea you go.

Wonderful dinner. Scott and Steve caught hundreds of pounds of tuna on their fishing expedition. We had tuna steaks, tuna sashimi, tuna sushi, tempura tuna and tuna salad, all on one meal, all deliciously prepared. A-mazing. We listened to the guys tell their sailing and fishing stories till well after the sun went down.

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Sayulita

Surf: Knee to waist high. Slow and clean.

Yay! Mexico! Again!

We tacked on a quick surf trip to Jesse’s boyfriend’s fishing trip in Sayulita. The usual house was booked up for a wedding so we stayed at the house of a friend of Jesse’s boyfriend. I’m not sure what I thought Johan’s house would be like, but it’s a full estate. It’s beautiful. We have a little house on the hillside. There’s a little moat to keep out jungle crabs and other crawlies. The main house is amazing. Beautiful views, lovely architecture, amazing.

The only drawback being that we’re not walking distance to Burros. Ahh well, it gave me a change to finally surf Sayulita. The waves were clean and slow, and the crowd pretty mellow. There were a few kids on longboards just tearing it up. Nose ride after nose ride. One little girl was barely big enough to paddle the board and she was still getting waves.

I got lots of fun swooshing rights. Jesse’s friend Scott got a few seconds of me on his gopro (see blurry image above.)

The water is SO hot here. It’s in the upper 80’s. I was cooking in my rashie-suit. Whew.

Other excitement for the day, I was waiting out a lull when I noticed another surfer waving to me. I couldn’t hear him but I say him pointing to the beach, then a Panga out in the water, then the beach again. I got the basic idea that he was telling me to move, so I moved.

The Panga turned, revved and screamed in to the beach. Wow. It looks something like this:

I hadn’t really thought about how they got the Panga’s up there, but (except for some clueless gringo surfers in their way,) it works!

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Wednesday in Mexico: Mid day in Town

Wind was blowing pretty hard. Seemed like a nice day to drive around.

We took some little road through the hills to get to Sayulita. Being a bunch of surfers, we went straight from the car to the beach. Plenty of waves, pretty crowded tho, hectic out there. Saw some people just TEARING it up.

Walked around town before settling on drinking pina coladas on the beach. Plenty to see there, but was feeling mellow and enjoying watching the surfers. Laughed a lot. Learned how to say “swarm of bees,” which I’m sure will come in handy should our beach be invaded by bees again. (enjambre de abejas)

Eventually met back up with the rest of the group and went on to San Francisco for another surf check:

Looked heavy. Steep beach was making for breakneck waves close to shore. Watched the one guy out go for a wave and snap his leash. Didn’t look like fun surf, but the town was mellow and pretty.

Took the highway back for more adventures. Abandoned cars, iguanas! Yay Mexico!