Tag: santa cruz

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Exhausted in SC

Surf: Beautiful peeling Waist-Shoulder high waves.

So. Tired. OMG.

I think I’m surfed out. It was perfect conditions today and I was slogging along, barely able to catch anything. My arms and my shoulders were burning.

Other than the frustrating lack of waves, it was a pretty fun day. Nicole, Tim and I met Beamer, Robert and Blam down south. Tim got some GREAT waves. He threw some serious spray. Dang.

I mostly floated around and watched everyone else score. Proxystoke is little comfort when you’re out in the water, but much moreso thinking back on it.

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Turnaround session, SC

Surf: Waist high with occasional shoulder high waves. Little bit bumpy. Low tide.

Caught plenty of long fun rides with Chris on the usual 6:30-9 shift.

Packed up, got some patries when Robert and Stefan rolled up for the 10-1 shift. Not sure this counts as a double session but the sun came up and the waves still looked pretty good. I unpacked all the gear,fought to get into my sopping wet wetsuit, and headed back out.

Not bad. Crowd up, wave frequency up, sun WAY WAY up, attitude up, wave size and relative cleanness stayed about the same.

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Mellow Westside

Surf: Mellow, inconsistent. Knee to Thigh high at Cowells. Waist-Chest at Indicators.

Crossed our fingers hoping there’d be some waves after a very mellow, barely breaking week down south. With the low low tide there was a little something happening. Got some looooooong rides over at cowells. Not too much uumph but I did get to work on a few tiny style points.

Headed over towards the Lane to try a longboardy peak thataways for a while. Some big drops and short rides. I got one nice top turn/cutback move to stay in the pocket. Nice to feel occasionally competent!

Chris shot some video. Yay!

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Pretty nice

Surf: Waist-Shoulder high. Clean, glassy. Woot!

Nice nice morning out there today. Met up with Matt and Cali down at 41st. 38th was breaking with some good size and we got plenty of nice waves. Chris, Nicole and Cali hit Pleasure Point for a while. It was looking more crowded and on the larger side that aways. Matt and I were pretty content to pick up waves at 38th, so we did.

Fun, fun, fun.

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Sunny 38th with Nicole’s New Board


Photo by Chris

Surf: Waist-Chest high. Peeling, glassy, occasional whomp.

Pretty beaut out there. Nice sun, clean waves, lots of action. It was pretty steep for 38th. Saw a few cover ups. Lots of short boarders in the water that far east. I got some nice ones. Chris got a top 10 ride of his life style wave. Nicole got to try out the sweet new board. It’s very fancy.

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Memorial Day

Surf: Small, a little messy, but sunny and not too bad.

Ahh holiday surf. Normally I would NOT be trying to surf Santa Cruz, heck anywhere, on a holiday. Blam and Emily were already down there and the local surf sounded a bit ratty, so I pulled the trigger and headed down.

Not too bad, a little crowded but mostly beginners who were easily avoided. Fun little waves with lots of waiting. We camped out on a nice tiny peak with Emily to get her a few waves. She’s getting it! I love seeing new surfers super stoked about catching waves.

Bodysurfed a little bit. Surfed till my arms hurt and then met up with Matt for dinner and ice cream. Holiday shaped up pretty nice. 😀

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East Side Tour

Surf: Mellow, Waist-Chest high. Clean.

Yay for SC Thursdays. Started out at the hook. It was fun, but a little crowded on the inside. We paddled over to 38th where a fun, small little peak was breaking. Got some fun little rides in while Chris shot a little video and took some pics. 😀 Soooo stoked about the vid. Also saw a whale again. Nice!

Pics turned out pretty good, too! Here’s me on one ride. I tried to get out in front of a section in the second shot. Was hoping to get a cover up out of it or something. So close!

Thanks for the pics, Chris!

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South Swell, Whales, and Hot Chocolate


Photo by Chris

Surf: Waist-Chest high. Peeling. Long lulls but lots of energy.

Nice south swell rolled in this week. Cowells was breaking sooo nicely. It was crowded for sure, but plenty fun. Got some nice long waves that really zipped on the outside and held up all the way through. Plenty of otters chilling in the lineup and a whale splashing around outside the kelp. Grabbed some hot chocolate, a pastry, and cruised on in to work.

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Welcome back, SC


Photo by Chris

Surf: Mellow, Knee-Waist high. Glassy.

Ahh, back in cold water. Missing Mexico with all my heart but still feels good to be home. Surf was super mellow with long lulls. Got some nice little rides in.

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Stoked!


Photo by Chris.

Surf: Fun, glassy, 2-4ft with some bigger sets. Mellow.

What a morning! I’m still stoked.

Went in with low expectations. Higher tide, forecasts were all suggesting conditions would be “just okay.” Still, happy to get a change to surf Santa Cruz before work.

It turned out to be a really fun session. The waves were clean and had a nice little kick to them. Bright warm sun, blue blue water, and long peeling waves.

My first wave started out mellow and medium sized. As I completed my bottom turn I realized I was looking up at the lip. My mellow warm up wave was turning out to be a nice, peeling, substantial wave. So stoked. So much fun.

Got quite a few nice rides and some compliments from my friends. Spent the whole day beaming. Stoked!