Waikiki Tuesday

2015-HIWKQC-01-27

Surf: 2.3 ft at 11.8 s from the W at 275°

I snuck out for a little more surf. Since I’m walking down there and it’s too far for a surf check first, I wasn’t entirely sure what was in store. I figured it was totally flat, I’d at least get a nice paddle around the bay and check out the spots.

Thankfully there were some fun little thigh high cruisers out there. I started at Canoes because it was a bit more frequent and shaped oh so nice for working on my steps. After a few waves, I paddled back to Queens for less crowded waves and a bit more oomfh. Sadly I didn’t have time to try a few of the other spots. I had to take a conference call. I listened in the park for a bit, then hung out by the pool to listen a little longer. Pretended to noseride on the edge of the pool.

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Massages, malasadas, and lunch after.

Waikiki Sunday

2015-HIWKQ-01-25

Surf: 7.9 ft at 14.3 s from the NW at 313°

Yay! Hawaii! I’m out here for a friends birthday and, while she isn’t a big ocean fan, I’m still trying to sneak in a bit of surf. Today I caught some waves while waiting for her flight to get in.

Many thanks to Blam, for lending me both his house and his surfboard.

There were some smooth, mellow, small waves thanks to big swell wrapping around from the NW. I got plenty of cruising time in and even a little cross stepping.

After surf (and after wolfing down a plate lunch,) I swam a few laps at Kaimana. I didn’t get out too far, there were lots of surfers and outriggers out, but I did get to see a sea turtle and so many many fish. What a nice little morning!

Wound up late to pick up my friend, but snuck in a little bit of time to pick up a lei.

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Thursday Evening

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Surf: 2.0 ft at 11.1 s from the S at 182°

After dim sum and shave ice, I was beat. I really wanted to go back to Ala Moana, but I also really wanted to sit in the hot tub and nap in a beach chair. So I did! Zzz. After that, went out for a few more waves in Waikiki. It was lovely out, but man, I was so tired. I got some sloppy waves before winding up paddling in when it got dark because I just couldn’t get that last good wave in I wanted. Ahh well. Warm water! Still can’t beat that. 😀

Thursday Morning

2013-HIOQ-11-21

Surf: 1.6 ft at 11.8 s from the S at 190°. High tide.

Up early for more Waikiki waves. Got up, grabbed our gear off the balcony, and headed down to the beach. With the high tide, things were a bit mushy, but still pretty fun. Swissh swissshhhh.

Unfortunately post-session we returned our gear to the balcony and discovered the car was gone. The hotel towed it. Ooops. A quick uber and a couple hundred bucks later and we were back in business.

Wednesday Evening

2013-HIOQ-11-20

Surf: 1.6 ft at 12.5 s from the S at 186°

Back to Waikiki for a sunset surf 🙂

Esther’s helping me work on my stance. She suggested standing a bit narrower (less power-stance, more style stance) and Queens is a great spot to work on it. The new stance feels really out of control. I’m used to planting my feet, cranking a turn, and following through more like a short board. This is more about smaller movements, swinging hips, and using my knees to absorb the impact of turns.

It makes cross stepping easier, since I’m not covering so much ground.

I almost got in a great cutback using this stance, but launched myself at the end from not keeping my knees flexible enough. Ooops. Still, a cutback! Holycrap! To have that be a fluid movement instead of basically a clunky stall is super exciting.

Thai food tonight! Nom.

Tuesday Evening

2013-HIO-11-19

Surf: 1.6 ft at 11.1 s from the SSE at 164°

Hawaii!!! 😀
YAY for Hawaii!

Flew into Oahu, picked up some very fun looking Takayamas from Surf Garage (In the pink), picked up Esther from the airport, and paddled out as soon as possible at Waikiki.

Sure, it’s small, but man. Warm water! Beautiful sunset! Nice little wave faces that were so much fun on those logs. I took out my Seea Jacket and Shorts for the first time. They are totally comfortable, but man, they were toasty. Sure this was a sunset surf, but the 2m neoprene was likely overkill. I’ll do a full review on the set soon. Short of it: I love em.

Hit up hot pot after. Stoked stoked stoke.