Tag: pig luau

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Road trip south – Saturday Midday

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Surf: 1.6 ft at 15.4 s from the S at 191°

Back down the cliffs for more waves! 😀

If there’s one thing I love to do on little surf trips, it’s surf the ENTIRE time. And when I’m not surfing, eating or napping works too. Chris is on a mission to try ALL of Mike’s pigs, which aligns very well with my “Always be surfing” mission.

Mike’s boards are amazing. I was too chicken to try any of them, but very stoked to watch Chris surf them all. Wow. Maybe next year I’ll have the guts to take them out (plus the arm power to get those beastly boards up and down the cliff.)

Got to try out my Seea surf leggings today. Love them. There will be a review later.

Chris also got a lovely little video of me surfing. Wheee. Just a quick fun little one. I almost blew it. I’m pretty sure that happens almost every time the camera is on me ad about half the time when it’s not. 😉

We got back up just about the time the pig roast was kicking off. I was so beat I totally missed that that was what was happening, went back to the van and napped. Oops.

Goals for next year: ride pigs, eat pigs, be more social.

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Road trip south – Saturday Morning

Surf: 1.6 ft at 15.4 s from the SSW at 198°. Low tide

Oh man, so excited. I waxed the board up last night before dinner and probably woke up a dozen times thinking “is it time to surf yet?! :D” before finally getting up around 5. Time to surf time to surf!

We were the first people out. Not a soul up or down the beach. In fact, I think those dots in surfapig’s photo are probably us.

I shuffled out (stingrays!) and paddled over to a glassy, but little bit closed out peak. Tide was low, but man, we had every peak all to ourselves, warm water and a new board to try!

First off, this board paddles like a dream. Wow. Even at 9’5 doesn’t feel as big as my 9’4. It’s smooth. It’s not so bulky when trying to punch through white water. It’s really nice! Didn’t try any fancy moved on it just yet, still getting a feel for it but I’m super stoked.

AND I got to wear my neoprene jacket and shorts. Yay for warm water!

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Road trip south – Thursday and Friday

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Road trip! Road trip! 😀 😀 😀
Yay!

We headed south for the Surfapig Luau. It’s camping, it’s a pile of pigs for you to borrow and surf, and it’s a pig roast, too.

Rented a van from Ours was a big astro van named Big T. Had a bed, a little kitchen, a shade structure, chairs, the works. Totally cozy and not too big to drive.

First stop on our trip, meeting up with the lovely Ashley Lloyd to pick up a new log she’d been working on for me.

😀 I love it. Wow do I ever love this board. Yeah, okay, I got a little carried away with ideas for the glassing and it didn’t turn out exactly as I’d imagined, but it’s beautiful and wow wow wow. I can’t wait to get it into the water. The rails, the belly, the tail kick, it all looks FUN. So excited!

After that, rolled down central CA. Dinner and a lovely walk in Paso Robles (plus ice gelato!) Sunset over the hills. Wonderful drive.

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Just past Gavitoa we hit crazy winds, 40+ mph winds just roaring over the mountains. There was a tractor trailer overturned on 101 and it was getting dark. We decided to pull off. Refugio campground was full but El Capitan had one spot open. A camper in a tent couldn’t take the howling winds and gave up. It was pretty lucky for us and extra lucky we’d through to get a van. The wind blew the curtains to the van around a bit, but otherwise were were safe and sound and relatively unbothered by the howling windstorm.

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Woke up to a beautiful view and an amazing beach. What a great spot to wind up camping at. Wow! Look at those cliffs!

We waffled a bit on if we should surf somewhere along the way, or blast on down the coast. Hungry bellies made the decision and we got breakfast in Malibu. Surf didn’t look too exciting and we were itching to get groceries, set up camp, and surf surf surf so we kept rolling. Maybe next time, Malibu.

Got down to the bluffs and set up camp. My new board wasn’t waxed yet and needed the fin put on. Plus I was all around being weird about taking a bright shiny new board out at a break I didn’t know and hadn’t even seen yet. I grabbed my hull and a wetsuit and scrambled down the cliff.

About 3 strenuous tugs into pulling up my wetsuit I thought, wow, this is a terrible idea. I’m sweating buckets just trying to get this on. I brought an old holey one hoping it would be cooler, but it’s one of the ones impossible to get on. Once I got it on and jumped in the water… the water was 70°! Whelp, don’t need to wear the wetsuit tomorrow!

The hull was fun! The waves had a little wind on them, but they’re warm, pretty forgiving, and fun fun fun. Chris got some great ones on Mike’s flowthrough blackstoke pig. Yeehew.

YAY road trip!

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Surf: 1.6 ft at 15.4 s from the SSW at 195°