Tag: pacifica

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Another Sunny Friday

Surf: Knee high waves, inconsistent and a little crumbly.

Work this week was pretty brutal. After finishing my project I race out the door and on to the waves. Little crowded out there but catchable and offering a few good rides here and there. The mellow waves this summer has offered up are proving some long rides and a great connection to the inside waves. Nearly all my rides were right to the beach. More barefoot surfing. We’ll see if I can hold out all summer.

Didn’t eat anything all day. Thoroughly DEMOLISHED some tacos after.

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That’s more like it

Surf: Waist high, surprisingly well shaped given the wind, warm water FULL of jellies.

Headed out after work with low expectations. Water was still warm and the waves had shaped up since the day before.

Plenty of fun rides. Lots of nice little lefts and sections to chase. I managed to somehow park myself in a complete swarm of little jellies just as it was getting darkish and hard to see. Yick yick. Surfing barefoot with jellies is a littler slippery.

All and all, pretty low expectations were exceeded. Grabbed some Pho after to round out the night. Score!

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Funky morning

Surf: Knee high and junky.

Not every surf session can be awesome. This one was pretty meh. Tide was too low, waves were closed out. All and all a disorganized mess. However it was a very successful “get up WAY earlier than normal to paddle out at 6am” attempt. I got up way earlier and paddled out for sure. Heard rumors of some wildlife activity in the water. All I spotted were a few dolphins playing, but always grateful to the SRC for their updates.

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Sunset



Surf: Waist high waves. A few chest high sets. Warm water.

It’s amazing how warm water can really brighten up a surf session. Had some pretty low expectations for this post work surf, but man was it worth it.

The air and water were so warm I skipped the booties for a barefoot ride.

It was pretty dang fun out there. Managed to get a little air on one wave and stick the landing. It was a total fluke so I laughed all the way in to the beach. Also got a nice long ride on a pretty sizeable wave compared to what I usually pick up. Head High according to Max.

I paddled back to Max and Chris hooting that I’d made it. I tend to go for the little waves no one else wants but was perfectly set up for that one. It was bumpy, a little funky, and I wasn’t sure I was going to make it, but I got it. 😀

We surfed till sunset and packed up in the dark.

I love summer and I’m having a lot of fun rocking the single fin.

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Nice little morning

Surf: Knee/Waist high with a few chest high waves.

One thing I love about summer is these small wave mornings is most folks sleep in allowing me to camp out on a tiny little peak and pick off tiny little waves to my heart’s content.

I’ve taken the side bites off my 9’4 to try riding it as a single fin. It’s actually pretty fun and (I think) helping me pull a tighter bottom turn on my lefts. Those lefts are getting better and better all the time. Yay.

Not too shabby for my 100th time surfing. (At least 100 according to wordpress, I’m too busy goofing off in the water to count) 🙂

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Rough Morning

Surf: Shifty poorly formed closeouts. Waist to Shoulder high waves. Choppy, sloppy.

My first day back in the water after two weeks in dry dock. Unexpected trip home and the week of work to recover from it.

Chris and I cruised the coast trying to find something worthwhile to surf. The jetty wasn’t breaking, the usual spots were looking less that lovely. After about 40 min of checking we swing back to Linda Mar.

Managed to get a few quick rides in between closeouts but the big story of the day was a great surfing first aid rally by the 8 or so of us out in the water.

A real big set came through that I was barely able to scratch over. I could barely hear the sound over the booming closeouts, but I manage to make out a faint “help”. Another surfer had been hit by his board in the head and was bleeding considerably. I yelled to Chris who was able to help him get in to shore. I bellied in and ran for my first aid kit.

David, another surfer out, is an ER doc and was able to patch the guy up. We got him cleaned up, calmed down, and off to the hospital for 9 stitches and to rest off a mild concussion.

It was a bit of a spook, but I was really impressed how quickly folks were able to come to the rescue. I’m still on the hunt for a proper surf rescue class somewhere, but knowing that most of the folks I surf with have first aid kits to spare is a little comforting.

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Sunday sun

Surf: Waist high, mushy and barely breaking.

Pretty mellow morning out there. Little crowded, barely breaking, but the sun was out and I managed to meet up with a few friends and run into friends of friends.

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Small Summer

Surf:This morning’s dawn patrol: Glassy, peaky, weak lines with soft/gutless corners to the beach..

I pulled up to the lot two spot two surfers giving up trying to catch tiny little peeling waves.
I love tiny little peeling waves so I took over their watch and paddled out.

I spent the first two waves bobbing around by myself laughing at how small and slow and wobbly the rides were. After Chris paddled out we moved to a peak with a little more oomph. Rides were still slow and wobbly, but actually a lot of fun. I’m working on my lefts and with the sand bars pretty much machining them out, it seems like it will be a good summer for it.

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Glassy Morning

Surf: 3-4ft with 5ft standouts. Glassy, mostly walled-up lines with a few workable corners through the inside.

Nice warm little morning at Linda Mar. The sun managed to work it’s way through the thick fog and the waves were holding up pretty nicely.

Chris and I managed to find ourselves with our own little peak to work. Plenty of fun lefts and rights. It was really nice to have the 9’4 back in the water. The superglide was really helpful. I’m hoping for another day like today sometime soon so I can take the side fins out and try the board as a single fin.