Tag: pacheco

Surf: Small, slightly bumpy soft waves. 2-3ft with some 4-5ft standouts.

I like surfing ocean beach when it’s small. In the summer it can get nice and mellow and I can paddle out with my longboard like it’s any other day. I’d mostly neglected the usual OB breaks over this summer. I guess I’d gotten into the habit of picking off lefts at Linda Mar and wasn’t really thinking much about surfing our local avenues.

Today Linda Mar was flat so Chris and I headed back up the coast, checking out the usual alphabet streets.

I got a real nice wave right after paddle out, then a few warbly drops on other jumbled waves. OB is always a surprise. The wildlife is a lot less timid and some pretty large waves can come charing through a spot that had previously be sleepily breaking at knee to waist high. Trying to scrap over one larger wave my board got yanked my the wave. I had a few seconds of bobbing around before realizing my board was surfing the wave without me. I had a nice long ride being drug along behind my board that was happily enjoying a nice wave all on it’s own. The 9’4 really gets moving fast, even towing me splashing behind it.

SURF: 4-8ft.

I met a few stokereporters out for dawn patrol at Ocean Beach. I was optimistically assured by Josh it would be a nice 3-5 and good practice on the shortboard. Arg.

It was definitely bigger than I was expecting. I still haven’t been able to duck dive my 6’8 so all and all the morning was much harder than I anticipated. I let Veronica borrow my 7 that is nearly impossible to duck dive. She wound up ditching it and swimming with it in tow. I wanted to do things my way so she made it out and I didn’t.

Ahh well. It was a beautiful morning regardless. I did manage to bruise my leg up pretty good in the shorebreak. I’m not exactly sure what law of physics ocean beach had to break to administer that beatdown, but I got beatdown pretty good. 😉