Tag: pacheco

Surf: 3.6 ft at 6.2 s from the WNW at 295°, rising tide. Winds at sea.

Today was certainly a change from the rest of the week. Fog. Slop. OMG so many people. Do none of you work on Fridays?! Anyhow, that aside, the Bakerfish evidently doesn’t like slop. It was a frustrating morning trying to get the dang thing moving. That was a pretty quick love affair. One good wave, and a whole morning of mehness. I’d love to try it again sometime, but I’m not sure when we’ll have a sort, clean, small-medium sized day again.

Photo by Brien

Surf: 3 ft @ 9 s from the WNW at 296° and 3 ft @ 12 s from the W at 277°. Rising tide.

FINALLY took out the fish Josh N let me borrow ages and ages ago. It’s totally flat, and since he opened with “yeah this the the board that broke my nose,” I wasn’t sure I wanted to take it out. I like that my fish has rocker and concave. This fish has neither 😉

It’s smaller than my fish and a twin keel, so it rides much different. The first wave I got it felt super skatey, which was rad for turning fast, but the first big drop it felt like it was going to squirrel out on me. Thankfully it didn’t, weeeeeeeee. Man that was a fun one.

I was really hoping to get a similar wave front side, but sadly I did not. Maybe friday!

Photo by Brien

Surf: 3.6 ft at 8.3 s from the NW at 305°, plus 3.3 ft at 12.9 s from the WSW at 247°. High tide.

Got a late start this morning, but was determined to make it out anyway. Wish the fish in the shop I took out my big longboard. Yuff. A few of the waves were breaking just steep enough to make me wish I’d brought another board. Without the fish I’m left unable to duck dive, but with a few exceptions, I was able to keep a hold of that beast.

I got a few long, fun waves with steep inside sections. Otherwise the morning was a little bit soft. I went after a wave, but didn’t quite make it. The guys were just howling. Oh man. I was laughing so hard. Nothing like paddling like a maniac for a wave that fizzles out. Ahh well. Nice to sneak in a few. 🙂

Surf: 2.0 ft at 5.0 s from the NW at 306°

Winds were up, swell was down. We skipped the boards and grabbed some swim fins instead. While the water was a little brisk, the morning was pretty fun. I got probably the longest ride yet and had the fun of actually getting a shoulder and riding it out rather than getting pounded by the shorebreak. Yeeeeheeeeew.

There was a lot of dolphin activity this morning too. One jumped out of the water just a little bit aways from us in maybe chest deep water. It was a little spooky, but pretty cool. They were churning up the water a bit and I decided to paddle further south to give them space.

I’m sure if we’d really hunter, we could have found something surfable, but in was a pretty fun morning anyway. 🙂

Surf: 3.3 ft at 14.8 s from the WSW at 242°. Incoming tide. Light winds.

The wind forecast has been all over the place lately. We took a chance on it being wrong and scored some ruffled, mushy, but forgiving morning waves. I heard plenty of “you should have been here yesterday,” but it was fun enough.

The 9’4 > 6’4 switch is still tripping me up. The first hour and a half I was struggling. Switching between the two I’m in the wrong spot or I blow my takeoffs. Eventually, I managed to sneak one in and finally get into a little bit of a groove.

I had two nice long ones (with some turns, whew) and quite a few drop and mush waves. Managed to get a nice long inside wave all the way in to the beach. Lots of work to keep that little wave going. Hop hop hop. Pretty fun kooky morning.

Surf: 4.6 ft at 8.3 s from the NW at 322°.

Paddled out int he very dimmest of the morning light. I’m not fond of the low visibility + ocean beach combo. Add jumping baitfish to that mix and you basically have me paddling around whimpering inside my own head like a big wuss.

Still, it WAS nice to get a few waves in with the guys before the rest of the beach showed up to get theirs.

I got a few fun ones, but between me being sorely out of practice on my fish and me being a scaredy-scaredy cat, I didn’t really get anything GOOD. I know I can do better than just cruising down the face till the whole thing closes out.

It was fun to watch the other folks get some nice ones and great to see a few folks I haven’t in a while.

At one point a small group of dolphins zipped by right below me and surfed the wave as it broke off to my left. Wow.

Surf: 2.6 ft at 5.0 s from the WNW at 290°

Much cleaner today. And there was sun! Nice! Waves were a little small and soft, but with the longboard I was able to get a fun ride or two. Always nice seeing everyone out, goofing off. I like good surf, but I also like surf that no one takes too seriously.

Surf: 2.3 ft at 14.8 s from 286° plus a 2.0 ft at 13.8 s from 221°. Moderate wind. Incoming tide.

More swell, but more chop. Then both MORE swell and more chop. Holy crap the more swell.

Here’s me, minding my own business trying to make something out of chest high funky waves when suddenly OMG that’s a much much bigger set. AAAAA paddle for my life. I’m pretty sure Ocean Beach loves to do that to me. Especially if I’ve just blown taking off on the first wave of the set and the next three are snarling. I’m assuming it’s the two long-ish period swells overlapping. Perhaps a couple sets both hit at just the right time to turn little slop into pissed off sets. Ooof. It’s been a long time since I had to walk though my whole “this is going to suck” headgame. I have to say, I kinda freaked out a lil. Sigh.

I did manage to sneak a little fun. I got a couple of long ones. I worked on my swooping quad turns. Fun fun.

Highlight of the day: a whole pod of dolphins when past Chris and Brien inside a wave. I was further out, so I only saw 3 fins surface just in front of Chris’s board. Amazing.