Surf: 4ft @ 8s from the WNW at 307°
Rad! Another Beachday! It’s even hotter today so I was relieved to tag along to a friend’s son’s beach birthday. The waves were gentle and fun. It was great to see lots of beachy folks, too.
Almost got up on the nose during some zippy inside sections. Tons of fun.
Wrapped the weekend up with fish tacos, beer, ice cream, and an amazing sunset!
Surf: 3.9 ft at 16.0 s from the WNW at 289°.
I might have gotten a little over ambitious with the new years resolutions. Yes, I want to get back into the swing of things, but taking out my fish (which I’ve barely ridden since getting hurt) in conditions I knew would be bigger (not huge, but still not the gentle softies of NYD) may have been unwise. Oh, and I’ve got a mean barking cough, too.
The first tip off probably should have been taking my board out of the bag to find the glassing around the fin cracked. Damn. I taped it up.
Second tip off probably should have been the shooting pain on a duckdive halfway out to the lineup. I turned around, I bellied in and tried to stretch it out.
I paddled back out, made it this time (with surprisingly little pain when diving), but was just not feeling it. I wasn’t trusting my board (mostly because I didn’t want to damage it further,) not trusting my body (both ability to dive or keep a good breath,) and really, I just wasn’t up for this.
I still wanted to try so I went for one. I blew the take off and got wrecked. I started coughing. Oh man. It was embarrassing and actually pretty scary. I could see the next wave in the set right there but could not stop coughing long enough to get a good breath. Fuck. I was panicking. I went under, did the best I could, came up and tried to calm down and stop coughing before the next wave.
If there’s anything I’m proud of in this disaster, it’s that I did regain my composure and I used that next wave to belly in.
It was frustrating and embarrassing, but a good reminder that: while it’s great I want to get back out there, it’s not something I can stubbornly force. I have to be gentle in the right places, and tough in the right places.
Oh and stretch more. I need to stretch more.
Surf: 3.3 ft at 12.1 s from the WNW at 288°. High tide.
So clean and beautiful and mellow this morning! What a way to ring in the new year. Soft, rolling long waves, an easy paddle, and almost no one out in the early hours. Saw some folks dancing and playing music on the beach, keeping their NYE party going as long as they could. I was pretty beat after so many lovely waves, I opted for brunch and a nap on the sand instead. Super stoked. 🙂
Surf: 2.3 ft at 10.0 s from the WNW at 290°. Windy.
Brief LZ surf team outing in total slop waves was actually pretty fun. Nice sunset, nice views of the headlands, a little bit of bodysurfing, and silly sloppy waves.
Surf: 2.6 ft at 7.1 s from the NW at 311°
Yup, windy and terrible as forecasted but not totally awful. I’m dogsitting and snagged DSaka’s wavestorm for kicks. It was actually pretty fun, even with the sloppy messy waves. Weeeheeehooo. Also very nice to walk down to the beach, surf, walk back, and hot in the shower easy peasy.
Surf: 5.3 ft at 9.1 s from the NW at 319°. Windy. Outgoing tide.
It’s been so warm we took advantage of the weather for a beach day. The surf was pretty terrible and my shoulder was acting up again so I traded the board for fins. While I mostly just got drug around by the current, there were some fun little corners and lots and lots of By-the-wind Sailors coming ashore.
After an ice-cream pit stop at Polly Ann’s, I stopped by the north end of the beach to say hi to some friends.
Surf: 3.6 ft at 10.0 s from the W at 261°.
Went back out again. This time paddling was easier, but turning still hurt. The waves were bigger, but thankfully still pretty gentle. I was treating my neck as gingerly as possible. I did get some fun ones. The first bottom turn was hard as I could look right, but I got some fun drops.
Already 70° by 7am. Gonna be a hot one today.
Surf: 3.3 ft at 6.7 s from the WNW at 296°.
Still a bit busted but I figured small surf might be okay. I got a few waves. Keeping up with the current was pretty tough. It hurts pretty good to look up when I paddle so I went with the current, not so bad.
My neck was hurting like crazy after. Ow ow. I want to keep active. I feel like it’ll just get worse laying in bed. It’s a very thin line between being active to help, and making it worse. Hopefully this didn’t make it worse!
Surf: 4.3 ft at 12.1 s from the NW at 304°
After being frustrated on my fish, I decided to take my log out. All of the forecasts suggested small waves. I should have checked the buoys because it was not small at all. Uff. For the most part, the thrashing wasn’t that bad. Being inside for a few waves I expected to be brutal, wasn’t too bad. I was getting frustrated not really getting any waves. I got a few drops into a closeout, but nothing really fun. Towards the end I got pretty wrecked. I had a wave where I just wasn’t coming up and wasn’t coming up. The big old log was dragging me in the worst part of the inside to get drug in. I had to really stop and remind myself not to gasp and suck in water. Not fun.
I paddled back out, hoping to redeem myself, but wound up dropping on on someone. I figured between being sick and being tired, I should cut myself some slack and head in. Ugg. Not fun. I could really use a win on the surfy front before hawaii. :\
Surf: 3.9 ft at 12.1 s from the WSW at 253°. Windy. Awful.
I was so beat after last night’s concert that I slept in. But hey, I didn’t have work to do any I had my gear at the office, why not try again in the afternoon? Well, I evidently missed all the good stuff. It was windy and terrible and I was just not feeling it. I paddled halfway out, watched someone get a wobbly messy wave, paddled back in, waited a bit, got about halfway out again and said EHHHHHH, I’d rather go home and order pizza. So I did. Shrug.
