Surf: 3.3 ft at 9.1 s from the W at 262°
More fog and more car-pooling this morning. Things were looking pretty sloppy when we pulled up, but got a hair cleaner as the morning went on. The waves were still a little chunky. Closeouts mixed with longer rides mixed with steep drops into mushout. Other than being in the wrong spot half the time (not sure which closeout to go for) it was a nice enough morning.
Surf: 4.3 ft at 12.1 s from the NW at 304°
After being frustrated on my fish, I decided to take my log out. All of the forecasts suggested small waves. I should have checked the buoys because it was not small at all. Uff. For the most part, the thrashing wasn’t that bad. Being inside for a few waves I expected to be brutal, wasn’t too bad. I was getting frustrated not really getting any waves. I got a few drops into a closeout, but nothing really fun. Towards the end I got pretty wrecked. I had a wave where I just wasn’t coming up and wasn’t coming up. The big old log was dragging me in the worst part of the inside to get drug in. I had to really stop and remind myself not to gasp and suck in water. Not fun.
I paddled back out, hoping to redeem myself, but wound up dropping on on someone. I figured between being sick and being tired, I should cut myself some slack and head in. Ugg. Not fun. I could really use a win on the surfy front before hawaii. :\
Surf: 3.3 ft at 10.8 s from the W at 273°. High tide. Light wind.
That’s more like it. Clean conditions, light wind. Much better. Of course, I was still surfing terribly, but hey, we’re halfway there. I struggled for ages to find a good spot since the waves were a little soft and the crowd was a little tricky. Eventually the tide eased off and I had a better time snagging the inside waves for a few fun rides.
Afterwards did a little sketching.
Surf: 3.9 ft at 12.1 s from the WSW at 253°. Windy. Awful.
I was so beat after last night’s concert that I slept in. But hey, I didn’t have work to do any I had my gear at the office, why not try again in the afternoon? Well, I evidently missed all the good stuff. It was windy and terrible and I was just not feeling it. I paddled halfway out, watched someone get a wobbly messy wave, paddled back in, waited a bit, got about halfway out again and said EHHHHHH, I’d rather go home and order pizza. So I did. Shrug.
Buoys: 6.2 ft at 21.1 s from the WNW at 291°
Checked the buoys in the am and they looked like nothing I wanted a piece of, but I did want to go look so I headed down to the beach. Sticker and Carl were already out. We watched them for quite a while. While I love watching folks get big stuff, I got breakfast instead.
Surf: 2.0 ft at 6.7 s from the W at 276°.
Hit up a demo at Aqua today. The waves were pretty much non-existant, but hey, always fun to try new boards. Sunny, warm, but crowded, and closed out little waves. Lovely bbq after.
Surf: 3.6 ft at 6.2 s from the WNW at 295°, rising tide. Winds at sea.
Today was certainly a change from the rest of the week. Fog. Slop. OMG so many people. Do none of you work on Fridays?! Anyhow, that aside, the Bakerfish evidently doesn’t like slop. It was a frustrating morning trying to get the dang thing moving. That was a pretty quick love affair. One good wave, and a whole morning of mehness. I’d love to try it again sometime, but I’m not sure when we’ll have a sort, clean, small-medium sized day again.
Photo by Brien
Surf: 3 ft @ 9 s from the WNW at 296° and 3 ft @ 12 s from the W at 277°. Rising tide.
FINALLY took out the fish Josh N let me borrow ages and ages ago. It’s totally flat, and since he opened with “yeah this the the board that broke my nose,” I wasn’t sure I wanted to take it out. I like that my fish has rocker and concave. This fish has neither 😉
It’s smaller than my fish and a twin keel, so it rides much different. The first wave I got it felt super skatey, which was rad for turning fast, but the first big drop it felt like it was going to squirrel out on me. Thankfully it didn’t, weeeeeeeee. Man that was a fun one.
I was really hoping to get a similar wave front side, but sadly I did not. Maybe friday!
Photo by Brien
Surf: 3.6 ft at 8.3 s from the NW at 305°, plus 3.3 ft at 12.9 s from the WSW at 247°. High tide.
Got a late start this morning, but was determined to make it out anyway. Wish the fish in the shop I took out my big longboard. Yuff. A few of the waves were breaking just steep enough to make me wish I’d brought another board. Without the fish I’m left unable to duck dive, but with a few exceptions, I was able to keep a hold of that beast.
I got a few long, fun waves with steep inside sections. Otherwise the morning was a little bit soft. I went after a wave, but didn’t quite make it. The guys were just howling. Oh man. I was laughing so hard. Nothing like paddling like a maniac for a wave that fizzles out. Ahh well. Nice to sneak in a few. 🙂
Surf: 3.0 ft at 14.8 s from the SW at 195°. Offshore.
Day 2 of sun and fun at the beach. Waves looked amazing today, but I was too exhausted to face the hollow inner bar un my 7’0. Instead, I body surfed a while. It was ridiculously fun. I got some looooong real waves.
After that, sandcastles, snacks, sunbathing. Wrapped it all up with ice cream and shady’s in the park. Seriously love these kinds of weekends.
