Surf: 3.3 ft at 6.7 s from the WNW at 296°.
Still a bit busted but I figured small surf might be okay. I got a few waves. Keeping up with the current was pretty tough. It hurts pretty good to look up when I paddle so I went with the current, not so bad.
My neck was hurting like crazy after. Ow ow. I want to keep active. I feel like it’ll just get worse laying in bed. It’s a very thin line between being active to help, and making it worse. Hopefully this didn’t make it worse!
Surf: 3.9 ft at 12.1 s from the W at 275°
Smaller today. I took the fish out hoping at the least I’d get some exercise. Wow, I barely remember how to surf that one. I got a couple waves. None of them steady. But hey, lovely sunrise.
Surf: 5.6 ft at 12.9 s from the WNW at 290°. Low tide.
I came prepared for small waves at Lindy, but with the low tide there wasn’t much to surf. Heading back north the waves were looking better, but much bigger. I just wasn’t up for it. I was up for getting in some bodysurfing time so I threw on the fins and swam out.
We only had an hour, but yeeheew that was fun. I got a couple really long one with the handplane. Fun fun.
Surf: 5.9 ft at 16.0 s from the WNW at 295°
Did another beach day with all the kiddos. There was plenty of playing in the dunes and collecting beach junk. I need to remember to bring a trash bag. There was so much junk already on the beach and I can only carry so much back to the car. I’d love to really round up all the stray beer bottles and other crap.
I brought Blam’s handplane to see if I couldn’t make something out of the junky surf. It was pretty dang fun. I got a couple solid rides in before handing the plane off to the guys to try. Chris got one wave so long it took me a good 10 minutes to find him again. I almost go into a pretty good sized wave, but needed just a few more kicks.
Headed to dim sum after.
Surf: 7.9 ft at 11.4 s from the W at 280°
Snuck out for a quick surf this morning. With the smaller swell and high tide, it was soft out there, but rideable. I didn’t really get any solid waves, but it’s been over a month since I took my fish out. My expectations were appropriately dialed I think.
One highlight of the morning, a whale swam by pretty dang close to us, surrounded by a pod of dolphins. I think that’s the closest I’ve been to a cruising whale.
Surf: 3.3 ft at 11.4 s from the W at 268°
Had a lot of hope after the weekend surf…but no. Another frustrating session. Uff.
Surf was real wedgey today, closed out too. I dunno, it just wasn’t working for me. I got a wave, but mostly paddled around feeling in the way. Really fun watching Eduardo and all the body boarders getting some nice rides. Holy crap. That looked fun!
Surf: 2.6 ft at 8.3 s from the WNW at 296°
Got a text from Tim after the morning surf saying he was paddling out further north. I was still in my wetsuit so figured, why the hell not?
Sure I was totally exhausted, and the first 45 min or so was steep closeouts (not super fun on the hull), but man am I glad I went back out. I eventually got some fun ones when the tide started heading back out. It’s nice to know that surfing that hull at ocean beach is possible. I’d given up after the last round of faceplants, but hey, there was some change for swish in all that whomp.
I swapped boards with Tim for a bit. He managed to get barreled on my hull. I didn’t scratch into anything on his 5’8. Nice watching someone surf my board well.
After wearing myself totally out, slammed some wings and pizza at Pizza Place. Nom. Good day.
Surf: 3.3 ft at 12.9 s from the WNW at 287°
The sunrise was extra beautiful this morning, but man, was I ever frustrated. I thought I had a plan: keep paddling. Sadly I flipped down the face of a few waves before retreating back to my usual “not paddling enough” strategy.” After that it was blown wave after blown wave. I got a little something, but was mostly miserably frustrated. Uff.
Surf: 3.6 ft at 16.0 s from the W at 275°. High tide and falling. ENE winds.
Swell had really come up from yesterday. More than I was really comfortable on my log. I really wanted to take my fish out, but missing a fin would have been about as bad as having too much board.
But it was clean and pretty, so I paddled out. The paddle out was actually pretty easy. There was the usual too soft outside, too steep inside problem to contend with, but overall I wasn’t really getting anything because of my own headgame. Uff, it’s frustrating. I don’t really like surfing ocean beach. Yeah, it’s a better shape, but sometimes it’s not that much fun. Ehh.
After getting a few poorly-surfed waves, I went further down the beach to watch the crowd surf it much better than I could. That was pretty fun. Folks were getting some really nice ones. It was also a little reassuring to see people blow waves too, it’s not just me.
Watching from the beach had the added bonus of listening to all the next-shift surfers in the dunes freaking out at how good the surf looked. After how small it’s been, people were practically skipping across great highway. 🙂 Yay for happy surfers.
Surf: 1.6 ft at 11.4 s from the WSW at 256°. High tide and falling.
Normally when I come back from a trip, the surf is junky and miserable. It was a nice change to have small, clean waves. I tried working on some of the moves I learned in Hawaii. It was much harder on a performance log and a punchier little wave, but I got a few proper rides in. Swoosh swoosh step step back swoosh. Whee. I also launched myself in the air pretty good. Yeee.
