Thursday in Mexico – Early am

Surf: Knee high, glassy.

Surf has come down a bit, but still fun. These mornings are glassy and beautiful. Wow.

It’s great to wake up, surf, throw my gear on a line to dry while I chow down on breakfast. If I could, I’d do this every day. Warm water, morning waves, breakfast. Pretty great.

Wednesday – Late day: Pelted with fish

Surf: Waist-Shoulder high. Full of fish.

The other day Ed had mentioned these needle fish that get spooked and jump out of the water. After scratching to get over a shoulder high closeout, got to see the needle fish first hand. I was quite suddenly pelted by hundreds of these crazy skinny fish. They were all over my board, hitting me from every direction. I shrieked like a little girl before laughing. Fish! Everywhere!

Pretty fun session. Lots of fun peeling waves. Still haven’t made it to proper sunset, dinner is just too tasty.

Wednesday in Mexico – Early am

Surf: Foggy, mellow. Knee-Waist High.

Another wonderful morning. Smooth, glassy, now with Fog. Just like SF with air and water temps in the 70’s. My arms are finally starting to get sore. Spent some time waiting for the tide to come up stretching.

Still loving going straight from the water to the breakfast table.

Tuesday in Mexico – Mid day

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Surf: Waist-shoulder high. Little bit of wind. Shifty.

Surfed a bit after breakfast. My arms we so sore. Need to remember to stretch before paddling out there times a day.

Caught a few fun ones. Decided to switch things up after a bit on the 9’6. Paddled out on the little 5’10 twin fin fish. Even with jello arms it seemed to paddle okay. I caught a few waves and blew them on the pop up before finally getting a real ride in. Very stoked. Arms, mega jello.

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Tuesday in Mexico – Early am

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Surf: Waist-Shoulder high. Slightly glassy. Mellow.

Early morning solo paddle out. Swell has come down a little from yesterday, but still plenty fun. Lots of peaky rights, swoopy turns, and sunshine. Robert paddled out a little later and snagged a few. Had a nice right where I swooped up high and dropped in for a big bottom turn around him.

Lovely pre-breakfast session.

Monday in Mexico – Late afternoon

Surf: Knee-Shoulder high.

Too beat for a triple session. Siesta for most of the afternoon and a few fun waves later in the day. Got a few big drops on some of the larger set waves.

Btw, Casa Rincon has a puppy: Milla. A-dorable.

Monday in Mexico – Early am

Surf: Knee-Waist high, glassy.

It’s still pretty much impossible to sleep. Even surfing three sessions yesterday I was still so excited to get back out onto an empty break with peeling waves and friends.

When the sun finally came up, I raced back out. Robert and I picked up lots of fun, sleepy little waves. Pretty much the best way to start the day.

Sunday in Mexico – Late afternoon

Surf: Waist-Chest High. Windy.

The wind picks up in the afternoons, but we’re really not thrown off. After a winter of howling winds at Lindy, some mild sideshore is nothing.

Didn’t make it all the way to sunset, dinner was calling and the food they are making here is amazing. I’m so stuffed after dinner that I can’t paddle back out. Pretty great to walk off the beach and sit down to a cold margarita and delicious home cooking.

Sunday in Mexico – Mid day: Double Shaka


Photo by Stefan

Surf: Thigh-Chest high. Clean, peeling, mellow.

Wake up. Surf. Eat the most delicious breakfast. Lay in a hammock. Surf more. Off to a pretty good start.

Everyone was getting out in the water for some Mexi-surf. Water was warm, waves were nice and chill. Perfect for goofing off. I blasted Blam a double shaka coming down a nice right. Wheeeee.

It’s so much fun to see your friends stoked. Happy to do nothing but this all week long. 😀

Sunday in Mexico – Early am

Surf: Knee-Waist High, Glassy.

EEEEEEEEE! Waking up in Mexico!!!

I barely slept. I could hear the waves all night. Whenever a set would roll through I’d wake up and think “is the sun up yet? is it time to surf yet?!” 😀

I woke up just after 7 and watched the waves hoping someone else would wake up. It didn’t take too long for my stoke to get the better of me and I paddled out anyway. It was so glassy I could see the fish moving about. It was a little spooky. A couple fish bumped the bottom of my board, but I’d forget about it when the chill little sets would start to come in.

Other folks made it out after a wave or two. Eeeeeeee!! We’re in Mexico!