Surf: The usual waist-chest high. Little rough around the edges from the afternoon wind but glassing off.
We’ve got some new friendly folks staying at the house. They’re adding a few extra days to their trip hoping for this phantom swell everyone says is coming “tomorrow.”
After the crowded morning, I stuck by the house to get a little bit of room to breathe. Things were closing out a little, but I got a few including one screaming fast one down the line. Yeeeew.
Surf: Clean and mellow waist-chest high waves, as usual.
I took Ed’s log out at the main peak. It’s amazing how crowded it’s gotten from one year to the next. Last year we saw half as many people, only a handful of Stand Ups. I took the log because I feel more confident on a bigger board and I was going to need that confidence in all those people. Crazy.
Plenty of sea turtles checking out the crowd, too.
Beamer took my board while waiting to get his back from ding repair (dinged in transit, doh!) It’s fun watching friends on your board. I got some fun ones on Ed’s board. You can really stick the tail of that thing into the wave and walk around. I’ve done a little bit of walking around, but nothing I’ve done has felt as glued into the wave as the waves I got today. I snuck way way way up. I should have gone for the nose, but I was worried about dodging in the crowd. Still pretty fun and now I have an idea of what my board should feel like when I’m trying all those fancy longboard moves.
Surf: Glassed off. Getting smaller.
It’s been plenty windy during the day, but it still cleans up around sunset. I took the 7’0 for a few waves. I got a nice late drop and surfed till sundown.
Surf: Waist-Shoulder High. Clean.
Paddled out early on one of the house longboards. It was glassy and grey with plenty of fun waves infront of the house. After a while, Ed swung by with one of his longboards. It’s pretty beat up, but man is it fun. I could do a fair amount of walking around on it. A couple local kids hooted as I tried to cheat a little five on a left. Fun stuff.
Surf: waist high close outs, waist-shoulder high
Started as a blown out desperado session of waist high closeouts after many tecates. Despite strong offshore winds the heat lured me in. When Ed arrived the wind started to mellow and we hit Burros.
I blew my first five waves. Sigh. Too much tecate.
The waves and I both shaped up and I got some great rides in. It was a little crowded (can a single break really hold SIX stand up paddle boards?) but still lots of fun.
Got in another sunset before heading back to the house. They had made the most amazing feast of fish, octopus, veggies and rice. Just when I couldn’t possibly eat any more: ice cream. Amazing!
Surf: Waist-Shoulder, glassy, long lulls.
After last night’s fun session we decided to catch a few more in the early morning. A few people were already on it, but still fun. Could of folks in the lineup were at La Lancha yesterday.
I could see lots of fish. Schools of medium sized fish with yellow tails, smaller needly fish, Larger darting silver finned fish. Petty cool.
Got lots of fun rights in. There was a woman on a longboard just killing it. She had the best grab rail cutback and stayed right in the curl the whole time. Nice!
Surf: waist-head high, glassy with a little chop, long lulls.
Brilliant surf today. Wow. Between La Lancha and my first paddle out at Burros proper, I am completely stoked. Super stoked!
I got so many swooping big rights, it was awesome. Swoop swoop swoop, pumping down the face for loooooong rights. Beaut. Plenty of time to walk all over that big board.
I finally stayed out for a real sunset session. As amazing as dinner always is, I wanted those waves that much more. Brian, Robert and I stayed out well past the crowd and paddled in just after the sun disappeared behind the cliff.
Ed hung out for dinner and drinks. Louis made a bonfire. What a perfect day.
Photo by Blam
Surf: Waist-Shoulder high, peeling.
Ed dropped by this morning to take us on a little surf adventure a few minutes up the coast. In the ten minutes or so from the house to the turn out, we nearly lost the boards off the roof AND got attacked by a giant spider hiding in the beach towels. Adventure!
It was one of those dirt path through the brush to a break you can’t see style spots. Beautiful beach, point break.
Kinda funny to be in a lineup with other people after so many sessions on our own.
Caught lots of long soft rights before trying out the faster steeper left. Picked up one successful zippy left, took a few more on the head before a nice set came through. I paddled, I caught it, I blew the bottom turn and rolled with the wave. I surfaced to find my leash snapped and board skipping around on the inside.
Crap.
I’ve never had a leash break before. I wasn’t terribly concerned about being boardless, but being inside swimming around huge reef rocks to get my board under control was a little surprising. Got some help on the inside, snagged the board, took a few more waves on the head. When the set passed, I paddled back out, rigged up some sketchy triple knotted leash attachment and kept on surfing.
Tried out Brian’s hand plane in the beach break. Fun! I can’t imagine swimming a whole session like that. Dang. Gotta be in good shape for sure.
Came back to the house for ice cream, beer, and siesta. Stoked!
Surf: Knee-Waist high. Glassy. Inconsistent.
Yaaaawn. Woke up the latest so far. 9:30, crazy. Robert was already out so I joined him for a wave or two. He got some really nice ones.
Pretty mellow, glassy, worked up an appetite. 😀
Surf: Super mellow knee-waist high waves.
Spent most of the day floating around our break from one end to the other. Occasionally a set would lazily roll through. Emily was so kind as to paddle out beer in the kayak for some in lineup Tecate time. Cracking open a beer is a great way to ensure a set will roll through.
I tried a few one armed paddles but didn’t catch a wave with the beer. I did make it through three waves and nearly all of my beer before taking one on the head, saltifying the beer, and catching one in to recover the floating can. Stefan worked it out a little more elegantly: pound beer, put can in rash guard, catch wave.
After hours of floating, had some fruit and beer in the shade nursing some awesome knee sunburn. Happy Cinco de Mayo!
