Tuesday in Mexico – Mid day

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Surf: Waist-shoulder high. Little bit of wind. Shifty.

Surfed a bit after breakfast. My arms we so sore. Need to remember to stretch before paddling out there times a day.

Caught a few fun ones. Decided to switch things up after a bit on the 9’6. Paddled out on the little 5’10 twin fin fish. Even with jello arms it seemed to paddle okay. I caught a few waves and blew them on the pop up before finally getting a real ride in. Very stoked. Arms, mega jello.

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Tuesday in Mexico – Early am

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Surf: Waist-Shoulder high. Slightly glassy. Mellow.

Early morning solo paddle out. Swell has come down a little from yesterday, but still plenty fun. Lots of peaky rights, swoopy turns, and sunshine. Robert paddled out a little later and snagged a few. Had a nice right where I swooped up high and dropped in for a big bottom turn around him.

Lovely pre-breakfast session.

Monday in Mexico – Late afternoon

Surf: Knee-Shoulder high.

Too beat for a triple session. Siesta for most of the afternoon and a few fun waves later in the day. Got a few big drops on some of the larger set waves.

Btw, Casa Rincon has a puppy: Milla. A-dorable.

Monday in Mexico – Early am

Surf: Knee-Waist high, glassy.

It’s still pretty much impossible to sleep. Even surfing three sessions yesterday I was still so excited to get back out onto an empty break with peeling waves and friends.

When the sun finally came up, I raced back out. Robert and I picked up lots of fun, sleepy little waves. Pretty much the best way to start the day.

Sunday in Mexico – Late afternoon

Surf: Waist-Chest High. Windy.

The wind picks up in the afternoons, but we’re really not thrown off. After a winter of howling winds at Lindy, some mild sideshore is nothing.

Didn’t make it all the way to sunset, dinner was calling and the food they are making here is amazing. I’m so stuffed after dinner that I can’t paddle back out. Pretty great to walk off the beach and sit down to a cold margarita and delicious home cooking.

Sunday in Mexico – Mid day: Double Shaka


Photo by Stefan

Surf: Thigh-Chest high. Clean, peeling, mellow.

Wake up. Surf. Eat the most delicious breakfast. Lay in a hammock. Surf more. Off to a pretty good start.

Everyone was getting out in the water for some Mexi-surf. Water was warm, waves were nice and chill. Perfect for goofing off. I blasted Blam a double shaka coming down a nice right. Wheeeee.

It’s so much fun to see your friends stoked. Happy to do nothing but this all week long. 😀

Sunday in Mexico – Early am

Surf: Knee-Waist High, Glassy.

EEEEEEEEE! Waking up in Mexico!!!

I barely slept. I could hear the waves all night. Whenever a set would roll through I’d wake up and think “is the sun up yet? is it time to surf yet?!” 😀

I woke up just after 7 and watched the waves hoping someone else would wake up. It didn’t take too long for my stoke to get the better of me and I paddled out anyway. It was so glassy I could see the fish moving about. It was a little spooky. A couple fish bumped the bottom of my board, but I’d forget about it when the chill little sets would start to come in.

Other folks made it out after a wave or two. Eeeeeeee!! We’re in Mexico!

Saturday in Mexico – Late afternoon

Surf: Knee-Chest high. Windy, peeling.

Yaaaaay Mexico! Beyond stoked.

Muchos gracias to Ed for picking us up, arranging board rental, and being patient while Nicole and I ran all over the house checking out the rooms, the surf, the pool, the beach…

It took all of half a minute to go from airplane mode to surf mode and I was stoked and a half to get out into warm water. Sure it was windy, but the mellow waves were peeling in nice.

I got a full railed loggy monster 9’6 single fin that picked up those little waves nice an easy. Plenty of nice little rides for our first surf.

Let the vacationing begin!