Surf: 9.8 ft at 16.0 s from the WNW at 285°. Low Tide. Winds ENE.
With the size coming back up, I’d hoped for my faviorite low tide corner to be working. I keep having that hope and I keep paddling out to chunky, weird waves. I tried several spots and all of them were that ledgy type of closeout onto almost dry sand. Yuck. I got a few exploding closeouts before catching a small wave in.
Surf: 4.9 ft at 10.8 s from the WNW at 287°. Incoming tide. Offshore.
Today was the first time in a while we’ve had a mellow, small surf day. It was nice to be able to hit up my favorite peaks on the north side and even better not to get completely wrecked doing it.
I kicked the session off with a really great wave. Chris said “all you” and man was I stoked he gave me that wave. I got way way up on the nose. I got a big oll swoosh in. So nice to be back on my longboard.
Even with all the extra foam, I was still exhausted. These long stretches without surf have me so out of shape. I had plenty of fun and my arms were noodles in no time. More surf, less colds and morning meetings, please.
Surf: 9.2 ft at 14.8 s from the W at 277°
Woke up feeling lousy. I hoped I’d be back to normal by the time I hit the beach. Sadly, I was not that lucky. I sat in the car and watched from the beach while Chris surfed. He got some really great ones. He was waaay waaay waaaaay up on the nose. A few of those waves almost got me to suit up. The whole “will surfing make me feel worse, or help me feel better?” question has been a really difficult one for me. I have the hardest time knowing when I should rest and when I should go. That’s gotten me into trouble more than a few times. Watching from the beach wasn’t SO bad. At least I made it down to the water!
Surf: 5.3 ft at 16.0 s from the W at 270°
Wooof. Between celebrating last night and surfing my butt of yesterday, I was tired today. I got one wave and spent the rest of the time huffing and puffing. Chris got some good ones, so I had a little vicarastoke. I figure if I’m too tired to paddle, I can always watch other folks getting good rides.
This sunset session was even COLDER than yesterday. I followed it up with some Pho, but it took hours to get warm again. I like morning sessions better. Sure it’s freezing when you suit up, but by the time you’re wrapping up, the sun is up and it’s a degree or two warming. 🙂
Surf: 3.9 ft at 13.8 s from the W at 276°
Yewhew, that was a fun little surf.
I snuck out early from work and hit the beach with the hull. I’ve been out of the water for the holidays and since I don’t normally ride this little board I’m always really stoked to get waves. SUPER stoked to get GOOD waves at that. I found a nice little corner where I could grab all the waves going wide and zip down the line. There were a few really steep ones where the hull just sang. Normally I worry about this board when it gets really steep (I’ve gone off the nose, falling down the wave end over end) but it worked!
In the end my toes were numb, it was nearly pitch black out, and I was stoked.
Surf: 6.9 ft at 16.0 s from the WNW at 287°
It was a little smaller this morning, but still plenty fun. I tried another spot instead of my favorite spot. More people but I still got plenty of rides. It took a while to get into rhythm. My first wave I popped up, slipped, landed nearly face first on the board, popped up again and finished the ride out. Whew.
Seems like I may need to buy some more cold water wax. I’ve been surfing with cool wax because my body heat is melting the cold. Unfortunately cool wax in cold weather is slippery as all get out. Looks like I can either fall on my face, or just deal with a few mushy patches wher the wax got warm.
Beautiful sunrise this morning with dramatic clouds. My last wave a guy dropped in on me. He was sure tearing it up and I would have let the wave go once he hopped on, but I really wanted one in. Thankfully we were both good sports about it and had a could laugh when we were back on land.
Surf: 5ft at 20s from the W at 271°
Fun, chilly morning out there. Chris, Debbie, and I had my favorite little corner all to ourselves. It was very fortunate becasue I’d taken the Hull out and it’s much easier for me to pick off the inside waves when it’s only me on the inside. I shared a few waves with Chris, but mostly wiggled my way up and down a few faces. Sure was chilly! With the handful of winter storms we’ve had so far, the beach is mostly rocks and it was quite the challenge to scramble across them with my cold toes. Still, pretty fun morning. 😀
Surf: 6.6 ft at 17.4 s from the W at 274°. Windy.
It’s been a while since I’ve done the “before the storm, howling south winds” surf. Ooooh hooo hooo, my face is stinging. We took our friend Seth out with us since the surf was small. He managed to get a wave, even with the offshores so fierce I got blown right back out of a few waves.
With the exception of my board scraping across the parking lot when I tried to suit up (I even waited till the last possible minute to get it out of the bag just in case and it still got scraped!) it was a fun little morning. A little less tide and it’d have been perfect. With all these winter storms on the way, there should be plenty of chances to get the right howling winds with the right tide.
Surf: 4.6 ft at 13.8 s from the WNW at 300°
Rainbow! 😀 😀 😀
Seriously, what a great way to start the morning.
Surfwise, the morning was pretty fun. I had very low expectations. Chris went out the day before and said it was big, cold, and miserable. He broke a leash plug in that slow. I was pretty releaves to see mushy, but pretty peak-like waves. It was a little challenging to catch the waves with the tide kind of high, but otherwise fun.
Surf: 5.6 ft at 21.1 s from the WNW at 283°. Outgoing tide.
I got up this morning, looked at the cams and buoys and thought: “maybe it’s still small and friendly. Maybe that big giant swell isn’t here just yet.”
By the time I got my act together and got down there, all the small and friendly waves were gone and the big new swell was moving in. With the hide tide it was whomping close to shore, but all around not completely unrideable. I got a few waves in, even with my sore shoulder.
Really nice to see everyone’s weekend photos from Ocean Beach. Wow, was that pretty. Way outta my leauge, but so pretty.
