Tag: linda mar

Surf: 5.9 ft at 12.1 s from the W at 271°. High and outgoing.

Life has been busy busy lately. I’d stayed out of the water last week as it was pouring rain and the water was filthy. This week I was slammed with work. I finally had to just stop, take a day off and recover. I got enough done to be able to sneak out for a morning surf. With the time change and my 10am meeting, it was a short and slightly rushed session, but I got some fun waves and I got to feel a little more like myself.

Hoping things will get a little more manageable, soon.

Surf: 6.9 ft at 13.8 s from the WSW at 248°. Outgoing.

This morning was closed out and funks, but boy was this bodyboarder excited to get out there. He was hooting and skipping down the beach. I hope he had a blast out there.

I surfed like a bit of a mess today, but still managed to make a few waves work. It was a funny mix of totally blowing takeoffs and getting some fun high lines before waves whomped shut. I think everyone was happy to have one more day of surf before the big rains come.

Surf: 7.2 ft at 21.1 s from the W at 271°. Incoming.

Still closed out and lumpy, but I love those foggy mornings. Brien made it out, too! Just about had the whole surf team back together. I bet the swell was really pounding other spots, but it was nice and small here.

Surf: 8.5 ft at 14.8 s from the W at 263°

After that awesome run of surfing almost every day a few weeks back, I got hit with Jury Duty. And not just “show up for a few hours and get dismissed” jury duty. I got on a trial. Ouch. It was really stressful, but informative.

The first thing I wanted to do the day after it was over was get back in the water. The surf wasn’t great, but man oh man was it better than sitting in an uncomfortable chair listening to people argue.

I managed to work some nice long rides out of a few, which was a great surprise to me because driving up all I saw were closeouts. Thank you, wave gods, for giving me a scrap of two to build my stoke back with. Wheyeew.

 

 

Surf: 10.8 ft at 19.0 s from the W at 277°. Low tide. NW Winds.

The swell that was teasing us yesterday is here, but with a lot of NW wind off the coast. They’ll still run the big contest, but they’ll have to do it with some lumpy waves. I made a few funky rides into full on waves, but after 6 days of surf, I was beat. I hung out on the beach for a while and heard everybody’s stories about that one time, that one year, way back when you could just ride your bike to the cliff at Maverick’s and watch those legends do their thing. Back before it was a circus. Good luck out there, competitors.

 

Surf: 5.3 ft at 12.1 s from the WNW at 284°. Incoming tide.

The surf this morning wasn’t sure if it was ready for the new swell coming in. Things were on the small side, but closed out, with occasional bigger waves. I was having trouble finding something at yesterday’s spot, and since I was coughing up a storm, I found a spot where no one was sitting and tried to make the most of it.

Amazingly, I turned some junky waves into rides. Other folks started trying themselves, but there really wasn’t much to work with. One of those mornings, I guess. I’m happy enough, but it’s certainly no yesterday!

Surf: 4.3 ft at 12.1 s from the W at 264°. Incoming tide. Light winds.

Oh man, this morning was a lot of fun. Rolling up I though “uff, the tide is too low, it’s all going to be closed out.” So glad to be wrong. After a few waves on a slightly chaotic peak, I moved over to a very peaky little peak that was a blast. Tons of good vibes, everyone was cheering everyone on and there were plenty of lefts and rights to go around, if you could link it through to the inside.

J-bird got a high five from Ben while they were partying a wave. A guy on the inside tried to high five me, but sadly I was too far from him. Still, plenty of YEEEEEWS! and people getting great rides. Stoked.

Surf: 7.9 ft at 13.8 s from the WNW at 282°. Incoming. Offshore.

The size came back up fast. No more peaky spots, instead it was lots of closeouts and lots of hoping to make something work. There were plenty of shore rides, a few “kinda strung it together to make a long ride,” and one big whomp that got me good. Whew. Beautiful sunrise and plenty of wildlife this morning.

Surf: 3.6 ft at 12.9 s from the W at 268°. Incoming tide. Offshore.

The size and frequency really came down from yesterday, but so did the crowd. The weather was still nice and, despite some long waits for waves, there was a great peaky little spot that was a lot of fun.

Surf: 5.6 ft at 12.9 s from the W at 281°. High tide and outgoing. Winds from the ENE.

What a beautiful warn, sunny day. And with bite sized waves to boot. I’m coming off cold number 3 since Jan 1st so I was excited to get back in the water. Crowd and all.

The first hour I really struggled. All the waves I went for were backing off at the last second, and I didn’t feel like paddling deep into the pack to look for inside scraps.

Moving over a peak did wonders for my morning wave success. I got like two fun speedy, way on the nose rights that left me pretty stoked. Sure, it was crowded and some people had their aggro superbowl supergrowls on, but I got to see lots of friends and catch a few in the sun.

Looking forward to getting back to the weekday sessions with their relative peace and quiet.