Lemony

Surf: 1-3ft and choppy.

After a thorough survey of San Mateo County wind and surf conditions, we picked off a few waves at the familiar standby. Certainly not great out there, but workable on a longboard. The water is clear and green again. I could see the various colors of sands and small rocks. Not terrible out there, but only somewhat doing something.

So tired.

Surf: umm…2-3ft? Soft?

Unnnng. I’ve been working a lot of late nights this week and I was beyond tired for the early am session. Squinting the whole way down to the beach I spotted some okay waves but with quite a few people on them. Everyone was looking for the “south swell” that was supposed be here.

I didn’t get much in the way of waves. My arms were spent, my head felt like concrete. I was really really tired.

Fog!

Surf: Foggy 2-3ft waves. Very soft and inconsistent. Somewhat clean.

Back to Linda Mar…I think. The fog was so thick we could have been anywhere. The tide was high, things were a bit swamped and small, but we managed to make it work. Chris scored some ridiculously long rides. Wow.

After he left, I floated around with Daniel waiting for the waves to turn back on. They eventually did, with almost no visibility to see them coming. I got some nice long rides standing on my logo, trying to cheat a 5 out of the sleepy waves.

Red tide. Yiiick.

Case of the Mondays

Surf: Sloppy, Disorganized 4ft. Rideable, sort of.

I’d hoped to sneak in a nice little morning surf before heading out to the desert for Labor Day. Out of “nice little morning surf” I got “morning.”

I was unruly out there. I got finned, I got dumped, but I did get a decent sized wave.

After that wave I said ehh, time for work.

Got to work and around noonish the surf sites and the twitters were all a buzz about a 100ft long monster shark sighted eating a sea lion about 100 yards out from the spot we were surfing.

Unruly beach day indeed.

PM Doublesun

Surf: Waist-Chest High, less consistent.

Yay! Freckled and happy. I got to watch a nice looooong sunset and catch a few waves. Wave quality was better in the am but I’m more than happy to doublestack my stoke. I saw both Chris and Aaron get some nice rights. Crowd was crowded, but mostly friendly. Saw a few faces from this morning out there. 😀

With the crowd I had to take a few slightly close drops. Sorry to the newbies on the inside I gave heart attacks to. I got a night left right around Aaron. Next time I’m gonna high five him and we’ll both get signed.

AM Doublesun

Surf: Waist high, mellow, clean waves. Warm sun.

I couldn’t really sleep. It happens. When Chris checked in to ask about a dawn patrol I was up watching a documentary on netflix trying to fall back to sleep.

Man, was I happy I dragged myself out of bed. Warm sun, blue sky, friendly folks. Saw Chris get a few really nice ones as I was paddling out. After picking off a few half decent waves, I spent some time sitting on the beach. I rarely get to just sit on the beach. It’s usually cold and foggy and I’m rushing off to work.

I sat for a little while and watched the waves. I spotted a nice left that everyone kept trying to take right. After watching a few sets, I paddled out for it. Timing was key. I had to wait for a nice one that wouldn’t have someone trying to take it right. With patience and a careful set up, I was rewarded with a nice long fun left.

Most waves I ride, I enjoy, then they fade into blueish greenish greyish moving memories that soon fade. Waves are ephemeral and meant to be enjoyed in the moment so it’s natural to let them go. Waves like my morning’s left are the ones I get to remember. I had a long line, lots of deep blue wave face. I had speed, I had turns, I linked up to the inside section. Everything went smoothly right in to the beach.

I was so happy. Got a few compliments on the beach even. What a morning!

Warm sun!

Surf: Waist-Chest High. Consistent.

Look at that blue sky. Blue! And all of a sudden it’s summer in San Francisco. The parking lots were packed and I found myself in the very foreign situation of walking barefoot across hot sand. Yup, hot sand. Just like a beach anywhere else in August.

Waves were fun, but a little crowded. Lately I’ve been pulling some funky grab rail action to get trim and dodge folks camping on the inside. Got a few fun ones. It’s nice to chill in the lineup with sun on my face and barefoot feet. Such a treat to surf in the sunshine.

Not Quite a New Swell

Surf: Knee-Waist High, Little junky

Went on a wavehunt this morning. Drove by OB, the whole Pacifica coast, all the way down to Half Moon Bay. Pretty mellow, pretty warbly. Wound up surfing longer than I’d though, getting a few fun waves. Nice to be out. New waves to come soon.

Flat and Dark

Surf: Ankle to Knee high and dark

We sort of got a jump on the sun this morning. Spent a little bit sitting in the parking lot in the dark watching hints of whitewater barely breaking and listening to NPR.

Sunrise didn’t find conditions to be much better than in the dark. 4 of us tried to will one little sort of peak into working with mixed success. At least I got some water time in and got to work early.

Junky Surf, Pretty Weather

Surf: Knee to Waise high, junky.

Yeah, it was junky. Yeah the wind was on it and warbling it up. But hey, it was pretty dang fun. Poor wave quality but def a good time. Like most Linda Mar summer days, it favored those with foam. One spot breaking pretty well but Chris and I went for the surfari and rode the current up the beach checking out a few more. Some good shoulders. Much crumbly crumbling.