Surf: Small, very mellow, clean. 289º WNW 4.9 Feet @ 9.1 Seconds
Brr. I wind up staying out WAY longer on slow small days. I don’t realize how much time passes while I’m bobbing about looking for waves.
I got a few, wanted a few more, and surfed till I was too cold and tired to move. Lots of other longboarders out there goofing off in the little waves. Fancy footwork, noserides, friendly chatter.
I went home and buried myself under blankets till I thawed out.
Surf: Waist-Chest High. Somewhat closed out. 279º WNW 5.6 ft at 10 sec
YAWN. Slept through my alarm and missed the morning shift. I only have a few days to surf before heading back home for the holidays and the big family vacation so I went out anyway.
The usual left was plenty crowded and not doing much. I headed north to another left with a handful of shortboarders. I was happy to have the big board to get into these mushy waves, but they closed out pretty quick and the slog back out with that much foam was exhausting.
I got a few fun rides out of it though. One right I took was a big drop. I got a little bit of face and a top turn before bailing as it closed out. I paddled back to some wide eyes and compliments on what was evidently a huge swooping bottom turn. “Dang, I wish I’d had a camera!” one guy said. 😀
Big current. Whole ocean was pulling out and south. Wore myself out pretty good keeping in place and catching waves.
Surf: Knee-Waist high. Fairly clean, some lulls.
Snuck out for some mid-day waves. Pretty small and mellow. Spent the session goofing off on the board, practicing some walking up and standing tall. Got a few long little ones. Stayed out a bit too long and didn’t have time to grab a pic before I had to race back to the city. Ahh well.
Seems it’s time for a haircut. Got my hair wrapped around my arm on a wipeout. Ouch.
Surf: 3-4ft. Not as clean, but still working well. 6.2 ft @ 13.8 sec – 316º Northwest
Friday! Much like Wednesday, but not as clean and a little unruly on the inside. And by unruly I mean “it’s totally that wave’s fault for being so fun on the inside, letting me hurl myself into the shorebreak.”
I had more than one kickout rejected by the the steeper inside. Toss! Ouch, ouch.
Got plenty of fun, loooong rides with some room to walk around. I’m a sequel fangirl now.
Surf: Waist-Shoulder high, clean. 3.9 ft @ 10s, 300º WNW
I like days that I assume will be average days and turn out to be really fun. Days like Wednesdays.
Pretty crowded out there, but there were lots of nice long waves. I had plenty of time to walk around my board a bit and practice some super mellow little cutbacks.
Surf: 2-3ft. Clean. Cold.
I’ve had a lot to be thankful for this year. Thigh/Waist high lovely little lined up waves were a lovely added bonus.
I’m thankful for a more stable year than the last. I’m thankful to have been able to be there for my family when they needed me. I’m thankful for the many wonderful years I had with my grandmother who passed away this year. I’m thankful that I have a place to live. I’m thankful for the adventures I’ve had.
I’m also thankful for all of the great people I’ve met through surfing. These folks have kept me sane, kept me employed, and kept me stoked.
Thank you to everyone who has been a part of my life. Many happy years and many happy waves to you.
Surf: Knee-Waist High. Racy and clean.
Brrr rrrrr. Woke up early to thick frost on my car. Back in the days of winterization and 4 wheel drive I wouldn’t have flinched. My little civic has worn out summer wipers so at 5:30something am I had a board in on hand and a scraper in the other.
At only around 37F at the beach, it was certainly what I’d call chilly. My fingertips were numb before I even got down to the water.
Thankfully the cold kept most people away and we had fun zippy small waves to ourselves. The sun kept me just warm enough. After a few hours I was happy if not a little but frozen around the edges. Yay.
Surf: 3-4ft. Fast! 310º Northwest 8.5 ft @ 12.1 sec
I forgot my glasses. I was running a little late so I just went without them. My eyes aren’t that bad, but I like having them to drive and to give the waves a good staredown from the lot.
I missed the staredown. Chris and Daniel were already suited up and heading in. I have a half stare and though “looks small but clean, I’ll take it!”
Around the time I was paddling out I realized it was racy with some oomph! Not small at all. Not huge sure, but looked niiiiice.
My first wave was super fun. Really fast and held up. There were a few sections I thought were going to break right on top of me but I zipped around. Weeeeee. So fun!
After that I kinda floundered around. I’m still really tired from Wednesday and couldn’t quite ooomph it up. Every time I’d sit inside, a cleanup set would come. I got a few okayish moments in, but nothing like the first ride. Still plenty fun to hoot it up for everyone else. Lots of great rides this morning. Everyone was getting a little something special.
Surf: Waist high, inconsistent.
I spent almost 40 minutes waiting for a client late to a meeting before assuming everyone else must be taking Friday off and running out to surf. J-Bird and Darren met me down at Linda Mar. The surf wasn’t stellar, but better than working 🙂
I got a few fun short rides including a technical head dip thing around mid beach. Took a drop that closed out on my head, but managed to get up and hold the line. After closeout after closeout, switched to the left and caught a few longer rides. Took a few late drops and caught a few standout waves. Not a bad alternative to waiting by the phone.
Surf: Thigh to Head high. Inconsistent. Warm offshore breeze.
Lots of hemming and hawing in the parking lot this morning. While tamer than the previous days, things were inconsistent. Some folks opted not to paddle out, we paddle out looking for something fun.
The first spot we tried was mushy and barely breaking. The next spot we tried up on the larger side was a lot more fun. Waves were still a bit funky, but fun. I got a few fun rides. I also dropped in on a dude. Dang. I didn’t see him on the inside of me in the sun. Luckily it was a pretty mellow morning and I could atone with lagging back on a few waves and steering clear for a while.
Fun moment when Daniel and I were on the inside of a cleanup set. He cheered for the oncoming beatdown. I was laughing so hard I almost didn’t get in a good breath before the wash cycle. I fought back out to get one to ride in. Nearly stomped myself in the shorebreak too. Gotta love a day that swings wildly from thigh high to head high from wave to wave.
Warm offshore sure was nice.
