Before the Storm

Surf: Beaut! 6.2ft @ 10.85s from 274º W. Clean, offshore winds. Fun!

Windy and really dang fun. Waist-shoulder high waves with some larger ones here and there. Surprisingly clean and with a little bit of zip and a little bit of punch. Super fun with the longboard but enough steepness the shortboarders weren’t left out in the cold. I got some fast swooping rights that held up for turn after turn. Was expecting storm slop so I’m beyond stoked. 🙂

More winter? Yes, please!

Surf: Waist-Shoulder high and peeling. 7.2 ft@ 14.8 sec from 294º West NW

After Tuesday’s windiness I was a little worried it was already spring. While mellow, it was plenty clean and breaking in all the familiar winter places. I got in a few nice rides on my familiar left.

Busy Week

Surf: Jumbled up, crumbly. 8.9ft @ 13.8s from the WNW 288º

I’ve been busy busy busy. New projects, recovering from my trip, lots of late nights, etc etc excuse excuse. Managed to miss all kinds of surf through the week. Friday I got in a few hours of jumbled surf. There were a few rides and there were a lot of closeouts and one over the falls moment I wasn’t too stoked about.

It’s nice that it’s sunny, it’s nice that it’s warm. Hopefully next weekend I’ll get sleep, time, etc etc less excuses.

Yay! Camera!

P1000048

P1000041

Surf: Small, clean. Fun! 267º W 3ft at 14.8seconds

Chris got a camera! Today was a perfect day to try it out. Super mellow, peak all to ourselves. Great great great.

I got in a few paddle-less takeoffs (and a few not successful attempts) and some great rides. Chris got some pretty fun pictures (including a great video of me completely wiping out and the wave that took me out taking him out.) Hopefully I can repay the favor on another super fun little day.

Hats and Scarves

Surf:Inconsistent Waist-Shoulder high. 9.5 ft @ 16 sec from the NW 315º

Brr. Today felt colder than those days when the air temps were in the 30’s. Everyone in the lot was bundled in hats and scarves. Except for the hours of shivering after, there’s something pretty romantic about laughing with friends standing on the beach while all covered up in hats and mittens and scarves.

The waves were not so oddly picturesque. Indecisive warbley things. Hard to pick out. Got in a few fun rides but mostly paddle for lumps that turned out to be nothing or secretly 4 waves bunched together.

Cookies

Surf: 7.9 Feet @ 14.8 Seconds 294º West NW

Plenty fun in the usual place. Lots of long left lines. Had to work a little harder today. Vs curent and vs softer waves.

I’d been bringing christmas cookies to the lot since getting back. For the most part it’s just been me and Chris mowing through them. Finally got around to distributing them a little better, handing a few off to Andrew.

Hopefully I’ll get around to making another batch.

First Surf of 2011

Surf: Waist-Shoulder high. 6.9 Feet @ 16 Seconds from the NW 310º

Hello 2011. You greet me with sunshine, a beautiful pink sky, and froggies singing in the marsh. Some pretty fun waves in the usual spot we’ve been so fortunate to enjoy this winter. Plenty of current and a little crowd to keep people on their toes.

Thank You, 2010

Surf: Fun, cold, somewhat inconsistent. Waist High to Head+. Crowded. NNW 330º 6.9 Feet at 11.4 Seconds

Plenty of long rides and big drops today.

What a year. I’ve enjoyed some very bright moments (having work again, getting into a more consistent dawn patrol habit, that nice working left we’ve had all winter) and I’ve had some tough times.

I started this little surf site to share my experiences learning how to surf with my family back home, mainly my grandmother. When she passed away in June, I was very tempted to let the site go. I missed her terribly and somehow taking quick pictures of the surf felt a little empty.

Looking back on all my pictures, it’s nice to have the memories. I remember calling my grandmother and telling her about this surf day or that one. I like having the record too, even if it is silly.

I’m looking forward to a few things on 2011. I try not to be too specific, I like to enjoy the good things as they come and not get too hung up on expectations.

Here’s to all the good things, good people, and good waves of 2010. Remember them all fondly and forever. Here’s wishing many good things for 2011.

Short

Surf: Inconsistent 2-4ft+ waves. Lots of closeouts. 306º Northwest 7.5 ft @ 11.4 sec

Decent swell coming in, offshore winds, icy cold spray…seemed like it should have been a pretty good day. Other spots were breaking nicely, but Linda Mar just wasn’t taking it well. Got a few waves, some fun drops, but not real long rides and plenty of sloshing around. Nice to have the sun out for a change.

Had to cut things short to take at work call. Yay for mobile phones and headsets. Sat on the beach for over an hour watching things clean up a little. Saw a few people get some nice little rides and a few people get demolished.

Friendly Shelter

Surf: Plenty unruly for most of the beach. Mellow and crumbly waist-chest high for the other part of the beach. 294º WNW 8.9 ft @ 12.1 sec

I never know what board to bring when it’s on the bigger side at Linda Mar. It could be big, clean, and racy. If it is, I’d rather have my 9. Not as much foam makes it easier to handle on the inside, but it’s still a big board to get into the waves farther out where they are softer.

If it’s unruly for most of the beach, but soft and mellow down south, my big glidey 9’4 is lots of fun. Plenty of foam to get into waves and swoosh around. Yay.

I brought my 9’4 and swooshed around in some crumbly surf. Got a few fun ones in with friendly folks tucked just out of the way of the unruliness.