Tag: linda mar

Surf: Knee-Thight High, Peeling.

Nice little morning in the leftorium. Lots of smiling faces. Andrew on his new homemade belly board, Margit, John, and Mike all snagging waves and joking around. Got a few pretty fun ones. The sun even came out and everything was blue. Ahhh. Nice morning.

Surf: Knee-Waist High, Clean.

After getting home from Santa Cruz around 11pm and exhausted, I didn’t really want to surf. But there’s this window before a storm when the winds are from the south and everything works out juuuuuust right…I can’t pass that up.

Cold, soft, but clean. I’ll take it.

Surf: Chest-Head high. Clean with some whomping closeout sets. South winds.

Woof! What a morning. South winds were doing their south winderly thing. Waves were way up in size from Wednesday morning. Lots of paddling to get my big foamy board through the inside, but worth it. Got one real fun racy left and lots of swooping rights.

Ran into Josh in the lot before paddling out. We haven’t surfed together in a year. Pretty fun being back out in the water again, especially now that I’ve had a year of practice and can go for some bigger waves. 😀

Chris snapped a few more nice photos:

Surf: Knee-Chest High. Peeling. Soft but pretty fun.

Finally! My work schedule and the wind schedule aligned for a morning surf back at Lindy. Sooo much nicer than that first Saturday back. Those pre-rain south winds were lazily grooming the waves into fun little shoulders and the mellow swell was making bowling little bits and mini barrels.

One guy I was talking to was working on getting barreled. I tried for a little head dip, not quite close enough to the curl but still plenty fun. Wheeee.

Out before the rain.

Surf: Soft 2-3ft waves. Low low LOW tide.

Woke up terribly late, but managed to get down just in time for a few fogged in waves. I couldn’t see the lineup from my car. I couldn’t see the water’s edge from my car. I couldn’t see the lineup from the beach, or the beach from the lineup. Super moody.

Plenty of fun little waves despite the crazy low tide. Drifted a full tour of half the beach in the fog.

Chris got to try out the new big board today. Man is that a big board.

Surf: Cleaner, 2-4ft.

It’s been so windblown and meh here that it was really nice to see a “clean” day. Not perfect, sure, but rideable. I got lots of fun drops in, cheating some closeouts a little.

Little bit of sun and some light offshores. A bunch of balloons floated by.

Chris’s delamed board finally gave in to entropy and crunched under a larger cleanup wave. Poor board. Cut the session short.

Surf: Closed out. Messy.

Moments of glimmering hopefulness and long grueling spans of closeouts. Waist-Shoulder high corners looked obtainable, but mostly mushy to pitching to mushy to pitching waves. Chris snagged some nice ones. I grumbled about picking my less foamy board and spent the session hacking up bits of seaweed after drop and wash rides.

I was a mess out there. I was not digging throwing myself into closeouts. I got lots of hard fast bottom turns followed by a wall of mucky water smashing me unforgivingly. I had seaweed in my hair, in my eyes, blech.

Surf: Little lumpy with shoulders holding up.

Sunny, shifty and a bit lumpy out there. Mix of knee to chest high waves. Some nice clean little corners for fun long rides and plenty of slow soft closeouts. Handful of folks out. Was shaping up a little with the tide change. North current on the inside, south on the outside.

Surf: Waist-Chest high. Not too shabby.

Sunny, warm, and a little crowded. Some April-fools style chest high waves that look like they are dead set on going left, only to hold up right. Few whopper++ close out cleanup sets coming through. I got a few nice rights. Nice warm offshores. Hard to leave the warm sunny sand for the office.

Managed to cut my fingertip on my leash during a rather messy inside paddle. Another long struggle to get out of my wetsuit. Ouch.