Tag: linda mar

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Clear Blue Mellowness


Surf: Knee-Waist high. A chest high wave or two. Clean, clear.

Very happy to have my big longboard back in action. Smooth paddling into mellow little waves under warm sun. Nice nice nice.
Def on the small side, but I’ll take it. Spent some time at the north end working on little waves and splitting peaks with some boogie boarders. Would love to have stayed out longer.

Took the long way in to the office and did some drive by spot checks. The mellowness meant the smaller spots weren’t breaking at all, but some typically whomping SMOT spots looked loggy.

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Sunset Soup

Surf: Waist-Shoulder high. Sloppy.

I said I wasn’t going to surf today. I’m tired. I was settled in to my day nicely when Blam and Emily said they were heading out.
Well if they were heading out, I guess I should to?

I got down there a little late. It was a mess. Crumbling, closing out. Not pretty. I was really hoping Emily wasn’t out in this slop. I did managed to get one good ride out of it all. That made the paddle out worth it.

Afterwards we had a nice dinner at Blam’s. Got to meet a few new folks including a couple from San Diego who were in the water while I was out. They commented on my no-booties/no-hood style. 😀 I like being able to pretend I’m hard core but it’s summer! Summer is a good time to go without booties!

Dinner was great, fun day.

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Steep Soup

Surf: Waist-Head high. Lots of closeouts.

Whomp. Yesterday was downright good compared to today. Got a few fun rides in and there was some size/power, but man that soup. Soupy soup soup. Do they make soup out of lemons and closeouts? Cause if they do I had plenty.

I took out my 9’0 thruster since the 9’4 was dinged. It was a great board for today since it’s thinner and it can take a steeper wave. I got quite a few exciting ones pumping through a few quick big carves before outrunning the wash. It’s always fun seeing people’s wide eyed looks when I manage to get a board that big to power through a bottom turn on a wave like that.

Had one pretty harsh wipeout tho. Ouch. I saw the wave just bottom out right about the time I hit a warble. I was pretty close from slamming into my board as it got pounded by the closing out wave. I missed it by a whew inches. Whew.

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Sunny. Swell’s not yet here.

Surf: Waist-Chest. Soft.

It was soft out there, but catchable. I got a handful of okay rides. Sun was out. Aaron was out after a long time out of the water with a shoulder injury. Size came coming up slowly but not the big pulse everyone had been twitching in anticipation for. Low expectations were helpful.

Saw nicoleslaw get a nice one. Woot.

No pastries.

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Foggy, Low Tide

Surf: Small, low-tide.

I got there a little late (Chris is out of town and my own internal alarm clock isn’t as precisely set) so I may have missed the better waves. I also opted to avoid the crowd and went for something a little less groomed.

Glassy on the outside, boiling gurgling sloshing funk on the inside. Plenty of drops into closeouts and some soft shoulders.

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Less Zippy Holiday

Surf: Less zippy. Waist high. Crumbly.

Today was a little less pep and a lot more crowd. Got a few fun little ones but mostly enjoyed the sunshine. Forgot to snap a pic.

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Zippy Holiday

Surf: Waist to Shoulder high. Plenty of pep.

Crowded, thumping, looked like a mess from the lot but MAN did I have fun. Picked off some good sized waves in the Leftorium with frequent waist high waves rolling through. Plenty of waves held up on the inside right into the closed out shorebreak. WHOMP. Rest of the beach looked like Chest-Head high angry wave soup. A few people were working it for all it was worth though, saw some great rides on the occasional clean shoulder.

Other than that, friendly folks, sunshine, picnic on the beach.

Chris usually spends his weekends with his little daughters so it was quite the treat to get to hang out, eat food, play ukulele and catch up with friendly folk. Blam, Robert and Stefan were out. We ran into a german couple touring the west coast by awesome surf van. Even caught up with Ed, a guy I kooked up every wave infront of a few years ago.

Chris and I drove around and checked out the other beaches doings. Fog had socked in most of the coast below Linda Mar. Lots of happy families out enjoying the coast regardless. Nice day.

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Picking up

Surf: Ramping up! Started out Waist high, built to a solid Chest High groove.

Lot more fun that I thought it would be. Peely small stuff for a mellow warm up. Some drop, zip, wash stuff to round out the day. Sunny, warm, tad crowded for the morning but all around fun.

I got some solid swoopy waves that left me stoked for the coming weekend.

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Bodysurf!

Surf: Crumbly, disorganized, but it’s always overhead when you’re on your belly.

Did some ding repair during the day with Blam. My 9′ is now back in action after a few weeks drying out some minor dings. I glassed over a large section of the nose that wasn’t water tight. It’s not pretty but it’s not a terrible job.

After a few hours of that, we checked out the beach. It looked ragged and I figured it was a good time to start bodysurfing.

Swimming with a handplane is a little awkward but I was stoked to catch two waves and be able to swim the whole time. I’m not the best swimmer (not awful either) and was expecting to wear out pretty fast. It certainly is hard and I was wiped out later, but happy to have hung in there as long as I did. Yay.

What they say about bodysurfing is true, sand EVERYWHERE. Full suit + hood and I still had sand in my ears.