Surf: Waist high, a few standouts. Little junky.
What a moon this morning! Plenty beautiful sky, but the surf was not terrible clean. Waves were rideable and all around not bad. Hopefully things will clean up with some of the new fall swells.
Saturday crowd
Surf: Waist high. Closed out.
Met up with the guys for a later morning surf. Plenty crowded. I struggled for a while and picked up a closeout here and there. I wound up staying out for about 3 hours before giving up. Might be time to get back on the longboard for a while to stay positive.
To make up for my grumpy surf, I got snacks:
Hit up the Noriega Street fair after. Fun!
Catching up
Surf: Windy. Waist to Chest.
Snuck out for another post-morning meeting surf. The surf wasn’t especially thrilling, there were a lot of closeouts and trying to fight my way into the wind with my newly repaired 7 was hard. The tide went out fast, turning makeable waves into wash. Post surf I ran into Max, back from some very exciting travels and Daniel who was headed out to see what he could make of the outgoing tide. Always nice to catch up with folks in the lot.
No Wax
Surf: Thigh to Waist high. Clean. Slow.
My 7’0 is in the shop, and my 9’4 had a ding I’ve been meaning to repair. With new swell supposedly on it’s way, I grabbed my 9’0 and headed down to the beach.
As I unzipped my bag, I had the sinking realization that before I’d sent the 9′ to Alex for a bunch of work I had stripped all the wax. Stripped all the wax and not put any back on.
Crap.
I found myself standing in the lot with a very smooth and shiny board gleaming back at me. There was no way I was going to turn around and head home. I dug half a bar of wax out of my bag and spread that little lump of wax as thin as I could trying to cover the board.
I wore the wax down to a tiny tiny nub, but it worked.
The first half of the session the tide was too high and things were slow and plodding. The second half, things picked up. Kinda fun to see what I’ve started to learn on the quad translating to a try fin. I managed a few tighter cutbacks digging in.
Not an epic day for sure, but happy to have made it work.
The start of Fall
Surf: Thigh High, clean.
Fall is here. Warm temps, lower winds, lovely mornings.
Plenty crowded out there though. Wow. 2 waves in and my board was dinged crashing into a dude dropping in. Thankfully no one was hurt, but I wasn’t ready to get out of the water just yet.
After a few too many close calls, I headed up north to throw myself into some closeouts. I got a few waves that made me feel slightly more competent on the 7′ (which I badly needed after the earlier tangle up.)
Nice to have the warm weather.
Lunchbreak
Surf: Crumbly Waist-Chest high surf.
Looked better than I’d expected and, given that I was taking a very long scenic route back from a way too early client meeting, I gave it a go.
Surprisingly not awful. I’ve surfed way worse. Wasn’t junky, wasn’t too closed out, it wasn’t all that bad it just wasn’t all that great. The sun was out a while and there were even a few moments the onshore winds stopped blowing and I got a couple smooth waves in. huh.
Thank you, o ocean, for a little bit of something in an otherwise desperado session.
Windy
Surf: Waist-Head High. Closed out, Crowded.
Got the stubby back from the shop. Now that it’s old dings are fixed correctly, I took it out for a spin. The waves today were crowded and womping shut. Not ideal for struggling with a board. I had quite a few duckdive attempts that went wrong and false starts on waves, but FINALLY finally managed to land two. One was pretty respectable and linked up all the way to the inside.
Afterwards got sandblasted by the sideshores a while. All my gear is sandy.
Pre-Labor Day Crowd
Surf: Waist-Shoulder high. Little crowded. Long lulls.
Got a couple chest high waves that left me stoked (especially the one I had all to myself, crowded out there today). Wandered to a less crowded peak for some shoulder high drop and wash. Mostly wash. It was sunny and decent enough. I’m happy. Def “fair”
Cross Stepping
Surf: Waist-Chest High.
Patient logging this am in the patient logging spots with some cruising long rides. Practiced some cross stepping to the tune of Faceplant Sonata. Hope the late morning shift had fun.
You go hike, I’ll stay here and surf
Surf: Crumbly Waist-Chest high. Windy. Crowded.
My friend Katie is visiting me! Yay!
Katie doesn’t swim or surf, so she and Lindsay went out on a hike on the hill above Linda Mar and I surfed.
It’s a little selfish but Aaron wanted to try out his 7′ and Blam wanted some water time, so hey, why not have a big group beach party.
Got a few decent wavelike things. Got some hefty mexican food after. Good enough day 😀