Tag: linda mar

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Flat Friday


Photo by Aaron and his spanking new GoAmateur

Surf: Flat! And when not flat: closed out! Also, chilly.

Today was one of those “take out the 7’0 and try to keep a good attitude about it” days. It’s one thing to tell myself “that was good paddling practice” or “well I did X better this time,” but it’s another to huck myself into shorebreak just to have something to do. Oh man.

The longest of long lulls with only closeout out waves. I got so much sand and water in my sinuses trying to will something into working. Aaron got a few and was able to test out his cam. I mistly splashed around trying to keep warm. Sheesh!

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New Fin

Surf: Waist-Chest high. Little bit of texture. No winds.

Big moonrise and a big new fin for my 7’0. I had it set up as a quad, but was oversteering most of my waves. I thought I’d give a singlefin a go.

I didn’t notice too much of a difference. I’m still have trouble catching waves on this board. Thinking about fins might be getting ahead of myself for now.

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New Year – Pacifica

Surf: Small, crisp, and a little closed out.

Low tide desperado session. The water was so shallow you could walk halfway to the Farallons before getting your knees wet.

Nice to get wet. Nice to get a few little waves. Always good to be back in Cali.

Happy New Year!

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Few waves before Indiana

Surf: Shoulder High, closed out.

Maybe I’ve been working too late, but I miss last winter’s sandbars. This morning was mostly closed out with some occasional waves. Long lulls and two solid rides, but mostly disorganized closeouts.

Found myself later in the day thinking about last year. Those two sandbars lined up SO well damn nearly every single day last winter. There have certainly been some fun days out there this year, but so far it hasn’t lived up to the glassy peeling chest-shoulder high glory I remember.

Maybe my nostalgia hoodie is on a little too tight?

I’m sure after two weeks in Indiana I’ll be happy just to be in the water. 🙂

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Crumbly Sunday

Surf: Thigh-Waist+ and Crumbly. Very textured.

I wasn’t going to surf. I had plans to work, do laundry, and other rather dull things. As usual, a little bit of nudging got me out of the house and down to the beach.

Conditions were pretty much not great. Onshore winds, small crumbly waves, and lots and lots of disappointed shortboarders.

Luckily I have a lot of experience surfing junk. ;D

I got a handful of scrappy shoulders in. After one especially long ride doding section after section, another surfer paddled over to me and said “That last ride you got convinced me it was worth paddling back out for one more.”

Made me feel pretty warm and fuzzy on an otherwise cold and crummy surf day. Hopefully my wave didn’t lead the poor dude astray.

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Pink Sunrise

Surf: Low tide, low wind, little bit messy. WH-CH.

Nice sunrise and better than expected conditions given the tide and how lousy conditions had been lately. Still not that great. Lots of closeouts. I got a wave or two that counted 1) as a wave and 2) as fun. CAn’t beat that big pink sky tho. Wow!

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Back in the Water – Afternoon Session

Surf: Waist-Chest High. Still clean, but more closed out.

After surfing with Beamer and Nicole in the morning, I swing by Ocean Beach to see if I could spot Matt and Brian in the water. They were already out and grumbling about conditions and wanted to check out Linda Mar. I agreed to head back down and paddle out again.

I love my Isurus wetsuit, but MAN is it hard to get into when it’s sopping wet. This is why I need a second one 😉

After lots of tugging and pulling, I was good to go.

Still pretty smooth and clean with no wind, lots more pep and push, but more clouseouts. Waist-Chest high with some larger waves hiding in sets. I’m def still not up to 100% after being sick. Getting caught inside on the larger sets I did not want to be under water or holding my breath. Still wheezy.

Got some fun waves before the tide dropped and it all turned to junk. After that had some tasty soup out of Brian’s camper van and a nice sunset.

Stoked to be back!

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Back in the Water – Morning Session

Surf: Waist High, mellow, and clean.

After two weeks dry with a miserable cold, I picked up a double session today. Fair in the morning with no wind, good shoulders holding up, and long mellow waist high waves. Lots of fun on the longboard.

I attempted Beamer’s tiny asymmetrical board. Of course the big set had to come through as we were switching boards. I ducked the first wave, but the leash didn’t hold on the second and away the little board went. I swam and swam and eventually got it back, paddled it back out, and went for a wave. Didn’t get into anything, but mighty fun trying (and fun watching Beamer and Nicole try my board out.)

It was nice to be back on my log after a few attempts on that little board.

Nice morning!

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Bleak

Surf: WH-HH and alternating between soft and hollow. 6′ @ 14s, NW.

Holy Holiday Heros. With rain, howling offshores, and some good size I wasn’t expecting to see so many people in the water. Chris was kind enough to help a guy with his wetsuit on inside out as he chased his finless, waxless board across the parking lot. Poor guy was getting in the water for the first time…on a dumping head high day. Yikes.

In all honesty, I’m not really one to talk. I was out there coughing and sneezing and feeling miserable. I should have stayed home too. I wussed out on quite a few waves but snagged a pretty fun ride or two.

There were some beaut little barrels rolling through, but all and all a bleak friday.

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Quad Practice

Surf: WH-CH and a little zippy.

Ahh, learning a shorter board. I know I’ve got to put in my time and pay my dues, but blowing waves is noooo fun.

I got one really nice wave off the bat that made me feel plenty competent. After that, it was kook kook kook. I blew the takeoff on TWO solid waves that were set up right for me. Argh! Watching those beauties peel on by without me was heartbreaking. To add injury to insult, I managed to cut my foot getting closed out on by another wave. Yeowch.

Well, gotta keep at it!