Heel side slide

Surf: 7.6 ft at 14.8 s from W at 279° Outgoing tide. Offshore wind.

Wheeeeeee. Fun first hour!

I’ve been struggling to get into waves for a while now and this particular spot pits me against soft waves and a tightly packed crowd. Today I paddled out and got every wave I paddled for right off the bat. Some of them from a little farther out than usual. So great to get a nice, long, good sized wave or two on my little board. That actually felt pretty competent and I got a little hull swish in the mix despite going heelside.

After a bit the crowd came up, tide went down, and things went back to same ole same ole. So stoked on those first waves anyway. 🙂

Little better

Surf: 7.2 ft at 12.1 s from NW at 305° Outgoing tide.

Still closed out, still a mix of whomp and mush, but I’m finally surfing my crummy home waves a little better.

Waist (occasionally chest) high at the left hand break. Got some fun little cruising rides and missed far fewer waves than I have been the last few sessions. That was a big relief. I’ve been getting so frustrated missing wave after wave.

After a while, I moved north and went for some closeouts. I’ve been closeout shy for a few months. It was actually kind of nice (in a totally backwards way) to get a few whomping chest high closeouts without wincing.

The lineup could still use a sandbar to smooth out the rough edges, but overall, not bad.

Disappointed


Photo by Darren.

Surf: Closed out. Largeish. 6.2 ft at 10.8 s from WNW at 283°. Lowish tide, incoming.

I’ve found good days at Santa Cruz are often followed by messy, terrible days at Linda Mar.

The whole beach was one whomping closeout. Chris broke his leash on the first wave. I was super uncomfortable paddling into anything and paddled out…where I continued to be uncomfortable paddling into anything.

Ugh. I managed to pick off two and back out of a dozen. Had to belly in after not getting anything for a while. I left the beach super bummed.

Closeouts

Surf: 3.9 ft at 10.8 s from WNW at 288°. Incoming tide.

I’m sooo out of practice for closeouts. Given that closeouts are often the only thing Linda Mar has to offer, I’m usually fine to throw myself into them for a while. It’s a game of chicken with gravity that sometimes has hilarious results.

This summer was pretty mellow so I didn’t spend the whole thing groveling in the wash like I normally do. As a result, I’m skittish. I don’t want to paddle for a wave about to slam shut.

After passing on wave after wave, I finally got a few little corners to ride including a really fun ankle slapper of a wave in for the day. Guess closeout jumping is something else I’ll need to work on.

Shallow

Surf: 2.6 ft at 5.3 s from WNW at 306° Low Tide. Junky.

Attempted to sneak in a few waves before needing to be responsible. The tide was super low and the junky waves were dumping into just inches of water.

I took out my 7’4 as the 6’10 was at the office and I was too lazy to pick it up. Got one ride that seemed fairly legit. Everyone around me was on a soft top so I got a few hoots from people for my waist high sand bomber. The rest of the rides were short, ending with my fins catching in the sand and me trying not to faceplant. At least it was sunny?

Friday

Surf: 3.6 ft at 8.3 s from WNW at 299°

Sometimes it feels like all there is to surf is junky windswell. Fought quite a bit to get into anything, but still made the most of it.

Looked like there was a class about to paddle out, turned out to be a memorial. If anyone’s interested, the family is taking donations for Baykeeper.

Offshore, crowded

Surf: 6.9 ft at 12.1 s from WNW at 298° Offshore blustery winds

Waist high and blustery with low water visibility and high crowds. Struggled quite a bit, but got something. Sitting on the inside is a challenge, especially at this particular spot. I feel like I’m infront of a firing squad and spend more time getting out of the way than surfing. It is an interesting perspective tho. I can see what people are up to a little easier. Watched a dude with a go pro drop in on everyone, absolutely everyone. Wow. Nice to have a warm wind.

Cold water carpool

Surf: 7.9 ft at 12.1 s from WNW at 287°

Yay cold water! Yay carpooling!

My car spent my mexico trip camping out in a safe place while I was off getting melted in the sun.

While the waves were just okay at best, it was really nice to be back in cold water. Sure 90° water SOUNDS nice, but in the hot Mexico sun, it’s brutal. 55° water is just what I needed to recover.

New Board :D


Photo by Brien

Surf: 3.6 ft at 13.8 s from WNW at 294°

Yeeeeeew. I got a new board!!!

A 6’10 Andreini Vaquero came up used at Mollusk. I’ve been drooling over these boards for a while and extra drooling since I tried out Mike’s Vaquero a few weeks ago.

Yeah, in the land of beachbreaks, it’s not that practical but man is it fun. Paddles easy. I got into waves right off the bat (which I wasn’t expecting AT all) and it did some fun swishy things to get around sections on the inside. Coming from a longboard and singlefin background, the board feels good. I only got one frontside wave to really feel the slide these boards have, but so far so good.

I’m taking this board to Mexico. I bet it’s gonna be fun in those right hand point breaks. 😀