Surf: 5.3 ft at 14.8 s from the NW at 321°. Winds: ARG.
Wow. The wind has been blowing like crazy, but even with rock bottom expectations, I didn’t think the surf could be this bad. What a frustrating afternoon. Not only did I not get any waves, but I put the first ding in my new board. Sigh.
Waves were big, disorganized, lumpy, closed out, and just plain bad.
Surf: 4.3 ft at 19.0 s from the S at 170° High and falling tide.
Bigger than yesterday, but still plenty small. I got a few fun party waves with friends and a few all to myself. This board catches little waves like a dream. It’s still plenty of work, but the fact I can even get a little thigh high wave on a board this small makes me happy.
I spent most of the morning making wiggly turns all over the place. I had one awesome wipeout where I went end over end, came up holding the board, tried to get back on, went end over end again. Ahh well, laughed it off.
Last wave I squiggled all the way into the beach. Quite exactly into the beach. The last little bit of the wave I was in dry sand trying not to ding my board.
What a week!
Surf: 3.0 ft at 11.4 s from the WSW at 253°
After watching Andrew catch little peeling waves all by his lonesome, we headed south to check conditions. It was mostly an excuse to use the new tunnel. The surf over there was pretty meh so we came back to crash Andrew’s party.
I got a few little ones. I’m so surprised at how small of a wave this board can catch. All this paddling for little waves is certainly getting me back into shape.
Surf: 3.9 ft at 12.9 from the NW at 305°
After some unpleasant logistical confusion this morning, I finally made it to the beach. After the work/life/whatever stress I’ve had lately, I was not thrilled to spend valuable surf time driving aimlessly through the fog. In short: arg grumpy unstoked me. Grr missing waves GRR Chris and Brien have to go to work after like 45 min. Grr.
Oh wait. I don’t have meetings. I don’t have to go to work. I’m going back out there. So, yeah, whatever responsibility.
Going back out was actually a really good idea. I got 4 waves straight away. It was actually pretty exciting. There was even a little section I made it around, just like regular ole surfing. The first wave I got in, bottom turn all normal like, then the top turn I was looking at the wave, but the board wasn’t going back down. It felt stuck. I was leaning and leaning and not really going anywhere. Then I stepped back and sheepishly realized that yes, this board has all kinds of fins and no, you can’t turn it like a longboard where you can just soul arch your way to wherever you want to go.
Once I did that, things got pretty fun.
Then the tide changed and I had to go to work.
Surf: 4.6 ft at 13.8 s from WNW at 292°. Winds 9.7 kn – 11.7 kn from the NW.
I’m pretty sure if anyone, anywhere in the world says “Let’s go surfing for my birthday” the ocean immediately switches to suck. The surf was lousy. I splashed around. It was meh, but I got a couple waves so that’s something. Yay.
Surf: 6.6 ft at 16.0 s from the W at 273°
It was raining like crazy this morning, but now that I had the right fins, very little was going to stop me from taking the fish out.
I checked the buoys and saw 6.6@16. I checked the beach and saw maybe waist high waves and plenty of flatness. Hmm.
Thankfully there was just enough going on to try out this board.
Paddling: It paddles! It’s not as easy as my bigger boards, sure, but it’s not crazy hard! Yay.
Catching waves: It does this too! It was so small today I was worried I wouldn’t get much, but I got some. Nice.
Duck diving: WAY easier than all my other boards. 6@16 managed to roll on by and I made it under easy peasy.
Turning: I need to learn this! There wasn’t a ton of wave action to really try this, but I can already tell it’s gonna be fun. 😀
Stylin: Oh yeah, it’s styling:
Surf: 4.6 ft at 12.9 s from the NW at 322°. Low tide.
Wow. It’s been a couple rough weeks being injured and unable to surf. And also really walk around. Ow.
Went back and forth as to if I should take it easy my first day back and log it, or go all out and take the fish out. Around midnight I decided FISH! I waxed it. I went to put the fins on…and the fin set I had wasn’t quite right. Oops. It was a front right fin, two back fins, and one center fin? It probably would have surfed kinda okay, but I was worried I wouldn’t be able to take em back used…or something. It was 1am, whatever.
So I took my longboard out. Waves were kinda crummy, but catchable. I got some fast fast rides before everything closed out. Just happy to be back in the water.
Crazy out of shape, but hopefully I’ll be back into the swing of things in no time.
Surf: 8.2 ft at 13.8 s from the NW at 314° Low Tide
Super super foggy morning.
Walked the dogs in the dark and headed to the beach at sunup. Man, loading a car is way easier with a garage.
Didn’t get much in the way of waves. I’m still struggling with that closeout-block. I’ve tried paddling longer. I’ve tried kicking. I’ve tried sitting further inside. The one thing I haven’t tried is falling on my face. I kinda thing if I set out to fall on my face, I might just _not_ fall on my face.
That’s some kooky zen for you right there.
One wave in. One long trafficky drive back.
Surf: 5.9 ft at 13.8 s from the NW at 308°
With the winds all over the place lately, I don’t really know what to expect anymore.
I’d expected pretty terrible conditions, but today was actually kinda fun. I got a few waves on the hull (which is so hard to duck dive after ducking the fish the last few times out) and plenty of sunshine.
Surf: 10.5 ft at 19.0 s from the NW at 312°
Oh sure, I bring the fish expecting bad waves and find fun waves once, but do it twice and nothing cooperates. Sigh.
It was all big closeouts the morning. I got into a few waves, but did a lot of kooky falling all over the place. Not so successful.
I was hoping to get some practice on on a smaller, quadier board before my shaping lesson this week. No luck!
