Surf: 3.0 ft at 14.8 s from the W at 276°. Low tide. Calm.
Fun little waves today! Piled into the truck with Tim and his friends and headed down to the beach. After struggling so much yesterday, I was setting my personal performance bar pretty low.
Thankfully it was a very forgiving day. Waist-chest high, not too mushy, not too dumping, little bit punchy. I got a great wave right off the bat. I was so stoked. Got in lots of swooping turns and hung on until the very very end working all the little corners. It was such a relief to get something good.
Lots of fun to watch the guys get good ones. Yeah, it was small, but clean! And we got in in some window where it wasn’t that crowded either. As the afternoon went on, the wind came up and so did the crowd. I bit it on a wave and came up right in another guy’s way. He did a HUGE cutback and hucked a bucked of spray. Had I been out at Lindy I’d probably have been run over. Glad the crowd was more people who could surf than ones who couldn’t. Some of the longboarders were getting some pretty sick rides. Folks were looking seriously stoked.
I’m still working on doing an actual cutback instead of just a stall at the top. Tim gave me the silly sounding advice of pointing my thumbs in the direction of the turn. It’s advice he got in Indo and says, while goofy sounding, it works. He also suggested trying them on my heelshide first, since it’s easier to make a frontside turn than a heelside turn. I’m looking forward to trying it out. All the lefts this morning kind of died out under me so I didn’t really get to throw my weight into it.
Had a beach picnic in the sun after. Super lovely afternoon.