Hot.

Surf: Very soft waist to shoulder high.

I hadn’t been to this break since the first Mexico trip. In fact the last trip, I drove right past it. With the guard tower and the fancy new fence, I’d assumed it was closed off to the public. Turns out the property owners decided to meet the surfers somewhat halfway. Rather than block off access, they made a rule that you had to have a surfboard or boogie board to get through the gate. They’re trying to keep people with picnic gear, beer bottles, and diapers away. I suppose it works, the beach was pretty clean. They also won’t let you in if you have an umbrella.

There’s pretty much no shade on this beach. If you don’t have an umbrella or a surfboard, you’re gonna be hot.

I was hot. The water was the same temperature as the air and I was boiling.

I like to surf early morning and late afternoon, but with all of us and logistics of getting to and from places, we got there at high noon. Yeow. I was floating under my board during lulls trying to keep cool.

I struggled quite a bit in the soft waves. I also was extra weary of the rock in the lineup. Perhaps a brand spanking new board wasn’t the best thing to bring to reef-bottom mexico.

I did managed to get a few waves and a kid in the lineup yelled FINALLY! I laughed. That was exactly the kind of session I was having.

After sufficiently frying ourselves in the heat, the 5 of us piled ourselves and the boards into a pickup and headed home. I laid in the ac in the dark for almost over an hour trying to cool off. Missing 55° water right about now.

Friday in Mexico – Midday


Photo by Blam

Surf: Waist-Shoulder high, peeling.

Ed dropped by this morning to take us on a little surf adventure a few minutes up the coast. In the ten minutes or so from the house to the turn out, we nearly lost the boards off the roof AND got attacked by a giant spider hiding in the beach towels. Adventure!

It was one of those dirt path through the brush to a break you can’t see style spots. Beautiful beach, point break.

Kinda funny to be in a lineup with other people after so many sessions on our own.

Caught lots of long soft rights before trying out the faster steeper left. Picked up one successful zippy left, took a few more on the head before a nice set came through. I paddled, I caught it, I blew the bottom turn and rolled with the wave. I surfaced to find my leash snapped and board skipping around on the inside.

Crap.

I’ve never had a leash break before. I wasn’t terribly concerned about being boardless, but being inside swimming around huge reef rocks to get my board under control was a little surprising. Got some help on the inside, snagged the board, took a few more waves on the head. When the set passed, I paddled back out, rigged up some sketchy triple knotted leash attachment and kept on surfing.

Tried out Brian’s hand plane in the beach break. Fun! I can’t imagine swimming a whole session like that. Dang. Gotta be in good shape for sure.

Came back to the house for ice cream, beer, and siesta. Stoked!