Surf: 3.9 ft at 12.1 s from the W at 275°
Smaller today. I took the fish out hoping at the least I’d get some exercise. Wow, I barely remember how to surf that one. I got a couple waves. None of them steady. But hey, lovely sunrise.
Bodysurf
Surf: 5.9 ft at 16.0 s from the WNW at 295°
Did another beach day with all the kiddos. There was plenty of playing in the dunes and collecting beach junk. I need to remember to bring a trash bag. There was so much junk already on the beach and I can only carry so much back to the car. I’d love to really round up all the stray beer bottles and other crap.
I brought Blam’s handplane to see if I couldn’t make something out of the junky surf. It was pretty dang fun. I got a couple solid rides in before handing the plane off to the guys to try. Chris got one wave so long it took me a good 10 minutes to find him again. I almost go into a pretty good sized wave, but needed just a few more kicks.
Headed to dim sum after.
Whale!
Surf: 7.9 ft at 11.4 s from the W at 280°
Snuck out for a quick surf this morning. With the smaller swell and high tide, it was soft out there, but rideable. I didn’t really get any solid waves, but it’s been over a month since I took my fish out. My expectations were appropriately dialed I think.
One highlight of the morning, a whale swam by pretty dang close to us, surrounded by a pod of dolphins. I think that’s the closest I’ve been to a cruising whale.
Looking good
Surf: 3.6 ft at 16.0 s from the W at 275°. High tide and falling. ENE winds.
Swell had really come up from yesterday. More than I was really comfortable on my log. I really wanted to take my fish out, but missing a fin would have been about as bad as having too much board.
But it was clean and pretty, so I paddled out. The paddle out was actually pretty easy. There was the usual too soft outside, too steep inside problem to contend with, but overall I wasn’t really getting anything because of my own headgame. Uff, it’s frustrating. I don’t really like surfing ocean beach. Yeah, it’s a better shape, but sometimes it’s not that much fun. Ehh.
After getting a few poorly-surfed waves, I went further down the beach to watch the crowd surf it much better than I could. That was pretty fun. Folks were getting some really nice ones. It was also a little reassuring to see people blow waves too, it’s not just me.
Watching from the beach had the added bonus of listening to all the next-shift surfers in the dunes freaking out at how good the surf looked. After how small it’s been, people were practically skipping across great highway. 🙂 Yay for happy surfers.
Welcome back
Surf: 1.6 ft at 11.4 s from the WSW at 256°. High tide and falling.
Normally when I come back from a trip, the surf is junky and miserable. It was a nice change to have small, clean waves. I tried working on some of the moves I learned in Hawaii. It was much harder on a performance log and a punchier little wave, but I got a few proper rides in. Swoosh swoosh step step back swoosh. Whee. I also launched myself in the air pretty good. Yeee.
Make up surf
Surf: 3.3 ft at 10.8 s from the W at 273°. High tide. Light wind.
That’s more like it. Clean conditions, light wind. Much better. Of course, I was still surfing terribly, but hey, we’re halfway there. I struggled for ages to find a good spot since the waves were a little soft and the crowd was a little tricky. Eventually the tide eased off and I had a better time snagging the inside waves for a few fun rides.
Afterwards did a little sketching.
