Tag: double session

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Back in the Water – Afternoon Session

Surf: Waist-Chest High. Still clean, but more closed out.

After surfing with Beamer and Nicole in the morning, I swing by Ocean Beach to see if I could spot Matt and Brian in the water. They were already out and grumbling about conditions and wanted to check out Linda Mar. I agreed to head back down and paddle out again.

I love my Isurus wetsuit, but MAN is it hard to get into when it’s sopping wet. This is why I need a second one 😉

After lots of tugging and pulling, I was good to go.

Still pretty smooth and clean with no wind, lots more pep and push, but more clouseouts. Waist-Chest high with some larger waves hiding in sets. I’m def still not up to 100% after being sick. Getting caught inside on the larger sets I did not want to be under water or holding my breath. Still wheezy.

Got some fun waves before the tide dropped and it all turned to junk. After that had some tasty soup out of Brian’s camper van and a nice sunset.

Stoked to be back!

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Back in the Water – Morning Session

Surf: Waist High, mellow, and clean.

After two weeks dry with a miserable cold, I picked up a double session today. Fair in the morning with no wind, good shoulders holding up, and long mellow waist high waves. Lots of fun on the longboard.

I attempted Beamer’s tiny asymmetrical board. Of course the big set had to come through as we were switching boards. I ducked the first wave, but the leash didn’t hold on the second and away the little board went. I swam and swam and eventually got it back, paddled it back out, and went for a wave. Didn’t get into anything, but mighty fun trying (and fun watching Beamer and Nicole try my board out.)

It was nice to be back on my log after a few attempts on that little board.

Nice morning!

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Turnaround session, SC

Surf: Waist high with occasional shoulder high waves. Little bit bumpy. Low tide.

Caught plenty of long fun rides with Chris on the usual 6:30-9 shift.

Packed up, got some patries when Robert and Stefan rolled up for the 10-1 shift. Not sure this counts as a double session but the sun came up and the waves still looked pretty good. I unpacked all the gear,fought to get into my sopping wet wetsuit, and headed back out.

Not bad. Crowd up, wave frequency up, sun WAY WAY up, attitude up, wave size and relative cleanness stayed about the same.

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PM Doublesun

Surf: Waist-Chest High, less consistent.

Yay! Freckled and happy. I got to watch a nice looooong sunset and catch a few waves. Wave quality was better in the am but I’m more than happy to doublestack my stoke. I saw both Chris and Aaron get some nice rights. Crowd was crowded, but mostly friendly. Saw a few faces from this morning out there. 😀

With the crowd I had to take a few slightly close drops. Sorry to the newbies on the inside I gave heart attacks to. I got a night left right around Aaron. Next time I’m gonna high five him and we’ll both get signed.

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AM Doublesun

Surf: Waist high, mellow, clean waves. Warm sun.

I couldn’t really sleep. It happens. When Chris checked in to ask about a dawn patrol I was up watching a documentary on netflix trying to fall back to sleep.

Man, was I happy I dragged myself out of bed. Warm sun, blue sky, friendly folks. Saw Chris get a few really nice ones as I was paddling out. After picking off a few half decent waves, I spent some time sitting on the beach. I rarely get to just sit on the beach. It’s usually cold and foggy and I’m rushing off to work.

I sat for a little while and watched the waves. I spotted a nice left that everyone kept trying to take right. After watching a few sets, I paddled out for it. Timing was key. I had to wait for a nice one that wouldn’t have someone trying to take it right. With patience and a careful set up, I was rewarded with a nice long fun left.

Most waves I ride, I enjoy, then they fade into blueish greenish greyish moving memories that soon fade. Waves are ephemeral and meant to be enjoyed in the moment so it’s natural to let them go. Waves like my morning’s left are the ones I get to remember. I had a long line, lots of deep blue wave face. I had speed, I had turns, I linked up to the inside section. Everything went smoothly right in to the beach.

I was so happy. Got a few compliments on the beach even. What a morning!

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Sunset at the Jetty

Surf: 2-3ft, Inconsistent, Mushy but smooth.
Gear: 9’0 Stewart LSP?

After wrapping work early, I decided to go for my first double session and catch a few waves at the jetty. Conditions were a little weak, but at that point, so was I. I haven’t done double sessions before (especially after getting up at 5am), so I was sloppy out there. I got maybe one okayish wave. There was a pretty embarassing moment when another woman in the linup (who was TEARING it up on a longboard) asked if my board was mine or I was just borrowing it.

Ouch.

She was legitimately interested in my board and suggested that perhaps it’s an LSP and not a hydro hull. After looking up the specs on the LSP, I’d say she’s right. The upside is that I’m learning a new board and it’s one that should be able to handle steeper, larger waves next winter. It’s what Stewart calls their “9’0 shortboard”. Hopefully it will help me learn to be more agressive and take on steeper waves. I’m also hopeful those skills will translate to my shortboards once I get better at riding them.

The lineup was pretty great to watch. Between the woman cutting screaming lines down the face and Jeff Clark turning a mushy peak into magic, there was a lot of great surfing going on.

Hopefully I’ll be able to up my second session game in the future.

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Dawn Patrol in Bolinas

Surf: 2-4ft, fairly clean. A little bit inconsistent.
Gear: 9ft Stewart

My friend Chris is working on a project up in Marin and with my new flexible work schedule, picking up a dawn patrol was high on the list of great ideas. As it was also the two year mark of me learning to surf, I figured I’d give the early session a go. We met up at 6am, drove over the mountains, then surfed 7ish to 9.

The sun cut through the fog right as we got to the beach. The morning was just beautiful. Waves were small rolling mellow ones and the crowd was friendly. Folks were hooting and hollering, cheering on other surfers when they got a good ride.

I really got to work my new 9ft. I could take off in a steeper spot and got the hang of shuffling it around more fluidly. Man, I got some great long rides in. This board is good staying just in the pocket and picking up speed when needed. The board offers a lot of room to chase on the right wave.

Heading back was the hardest part. I could have stayed out all day if I didn’t have an 11am meeting. Heading up the 1 we met a parade of classic cars coming the other direction. Must have been over two dozen beautiful roadsters cruising the coast, living the dream.