Tag: double session

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Sunday Evening: San Onofre

2016-SANOOM-06-26

Surf: 3.3 ft at 16.7 s from the SW at 216°. High tide.

The swell has come down a bit, but it’s still a little lumpy. The rides were longer and I spent less time dodging waves so that was a relief. What I was hoping for was some rides where I could reliably work on my steps and these bumps were making it hard.

Still, it’s a lovely spot and, if you can’t get the good rides yourself, there’s plenty of people you can watch turn a crumbly, bumpy wave into a ride worthy of a magazine cover. I love watching people surf down here. What style!

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Sunday Morning: Doheny

2016-DPDH-06-26

Surf: 3.3 ft at 16.7 s from the SW at 215°. Incoming.

Last night we got home from surfing Old Man’s and I went to reach for something in the van…pop! I put my neck right out. Oww. I figured if anything would do it it would be sleeping on a foam matress in the car, but no, it was reaching for something. I’m sure it was me being tense surfing Old Man’s that really did it but sheesh. Still, I made it 5 days in before hurting myself where the last two trips I started out hurt!

In order to go a little easier on myself, I suggested we try Doheny instead of going back to Old Man’s. I’m so glad we did. It was warm, friendly chest high waves, medium+ crowd, but still plenty of surf to go around.

I got one pretty long set wave and Chris got an amazing long long long ride from the first peak all the way past the jetty nearly to the campgrounds. Wow!

I’d love to come back and camp here sometime. I imagine it’s usually smaller waves, but it still seems like a fun spot. With all the beach amenities, I bet it’d be a great place to drag some kids along to.

Only bummer of the day, we neglected to bring Chris’s Bing back from the luau pile and wasn’t there when we got back from our surf. I’m hoping someone else from the luau saw it all alone after the camp packed up and took it for safekeeping, but I imagine someone thought it was abandoned and claimed it for their own. If you happen to spot this board, please get in touch: http://greacen.com/greacen/?post=3474

2016-06-29 17.42.53-2

Missing Board: 1963 Bing
I lost track of my board this weekend (Sunday 6/26) at the top of Trail 5 in the SanO Bluffs campground and it seems to have walked off. If you see this thing please let me know. I’d like to get her back.
9’6″
Tail block
D-fin
Terrible patch job on the deck
Leash loop drilled into the fin
2″ balsa stringer

Thank you!

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Thursday Evening: C Street

2016-VNC-06-23pm

Surf: 2.3 ft at 16.7 s from the S at 184°. Breezy.

After a nap back at the campsite, we headed back to C street where the wind was up again. With the wind up, I’ve been wearing my hood to keep my ears dry. I look like a dork, but better than making my surfer’s ear worse.

People at C street were really friendly. No weird looks paddling out all bundled up and everyone was cheering each other on. I think part of it has to do with all the people standing on the shore grumbling about how they thought it’d be better rather than paddline out, but the rest was genuine stoke.

I got a couple bigger waves and a guy was clapping and cheering. I was howling for a couple kids on shortboards who were killing it. Oh man it was fun. I almost don’t want to keep on driving south.

Hit up Lure for dinner and demolished another large delicious meal. We haven’t bought provisions yet so we’re hitting up some great restaurants until we hit the final camping spot. So far this trip’s had good waves, good camping, good food, and good company. Super stoked.

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Thursday Morning: C Street

2016-VNC-06-23am.jpg

Surf: 2.0 ft at 18.2 s from the S at 186°. Low tide and incoming. Glassy.

I was slow to get moving this morning, but tried my best to rally as we were meeting Derek at C Street at 6:30.

Pulling up, the surf looked so fun. Super smooth and much better shape from the evening before. Oh man it was nice. Sure, some waves took some paddling to chance down, but overall it was a perfect june gloomy surfy morning.

It was great to catch up with Derek. We got a couple fun party waves in plus plenty of nice ones for both him and Chris.

After Derek headed off to work, we hit up Pete’s Breakfast House. I wolfed down a waffle, potatoes, eggs, and sausage like it was nothing. What a solid post-surf “Yes I’m going to eat all of this so double the bacon” spot.

We hit up County Line after. That place was big. The swell was cutting in just right that it was well overhead and just slamming shut on the inside. Between the whomp and the food coma, I decided to just watch. People were tearing it up out there. Yew.

I bet it’s already huge down in San O and only getting bigger. 😮

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Pig Luau: Sunday PM

2015-SANO-06-21

Surf: 1.6 ft at 15.4 s from the SW at 215°

Half the camp packed up today and headed out today. Usually the SF folks stay around another day, but otherwise the site’s pretty empty. Got in a few more waves and another sunset surf. It was fun, Surf a Pig Luau! Can wait to see everyone next year.

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Pig Luau: Sunday am

San O from surfer girl on Vimeo.

Surf: 2.0 ft at 15.4 s from the SW at 222°

Met up with Cynthia this morning. I was still a little on edge from yesterday and, since I knew I was going to be surfing with a short boarder, I though maybe I’d skip the leashless, big honking board and go for my trusty board.

The waves were a bit closed out and the morning was great, but eventually the sun came out and the waves cleaned up.

It’s been really great seeing SoCal friends on this trip. Last year we were a bit caught up with getting down here and getting to know the place and the people. This year I felt like we were a little more dialed in. Less gear, more social time. 🙂

Thanks Cynthia and Jon for making the drive up!

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Multiple Great Whites

2015-SANO-06-20pm

Surf: 1.6 ft at 16.7 s from the SSW at 212°.

Met up with Jon and his family to surf this afternoon. I hauled the Tuxedo pig (pictured below) down to the beach to try it out. As we were getting into the water, Jon’s wife said “Someone mentioned something about seeing a shark. Let Jon know when you get out there, please.”

I paddled out and let him know. We shrugged. These vintage and vintage style boards are heavy. It’s a long walk down from the cliff and I didn’t want to skip out on the waves because of a rumor.

The Tuxedo pig was fun. It’s definitely heavy and I was doing a lot of work to swing it around and keep it under control going leashless. I got a couple fun waves before swapping it for the Feral Pig CG was riding.

Just after getting my first wave on the Feral Pig, a helicopter buzzed us shouting over the loudspeaker. Now, helicopters are loud, and the ocean is loud, and while we didn’t understand all of what they were saying, we did get the message of “MULTIPLE GREAT WHITES” and I can’t image we needed to know more than that.

Of course, I’d only gotten ONE wave on the feral pig, so I didn’t go in right away. I got another wave. That board is fascinating. It’s big and heavy, but surfs like it isn’t. It has the flow-thru D fin, but is smooth and buttery. Basically the board did all the work. It caught the wave, it turned, it made a section, it got a reform, it held steady while I walked up.

I lost it trying to kick out of the wave. In the course of me swimming after it, I bumped some kelp and shrieked. I decided that it might be time to go in.

It glassed off really nice in the evening, but I was still spooked. Glad other folks scored the sunset waves.

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Saturday am Pig Luau

2015-SANO-06-20

Surf: 1.3 ft at 16.7 s from the SW at 222°

Up early and down to the beach. I snagged one of James’s board. I can’t remember which one now, but it was one of the lighter weight noseriders and it was a blast. The tide was a little low in the morning which upped the shallow water whomp. It was a little intimidating going leashless on someone else’s board in the rocks but I didn’t lose it once. Last year I was too worried about dinging someone’s board to borrow any. My goal for this year was to borrow a lot.

The waves naturally picked up right as I was heading back up the cliffs, but it was breakfast time.

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Pig Luau!

2015-VTC-06-19b

Surf: 1.3 ft at 16.7 s from the SW at 219°.

Yay! We’re here!

After a long, round-about path from Ventura to San Onofre, we finally made it. Big thanks to our camp mates from Sunset Shapers, who got in last night and already had camp set up. We hit the water first thing for a lovely sunset session. The waves are small to medium, but so far pretty clean and fun!

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Ventura

2015-VTC-06-19a

Surf: 1.0 ft at 18.2 s from the S.

😀 😀 😀
It’s surf luau time!

CG and I loaded up another Lost Campers’ van and headed south. This van’s name is Gilly. (Lost Campers names the vans, not us!) With the oil spill, there were very few places in the Santa Barbara-Ventura area to camp. Luckily, a friend of Chris’s offered up his driveway in Goleta. I’m still worked on a drawing or painting to thank them for letting us stay. It was a HUGE help and we got to hit up some Ventura surf spots on the way down.

The surf forecast for the week has been hard to read. Surfline said flat, but we found a small, long-period swell in the water that was certainly rideable and actually pretty fun.

Most of the waves were small, but long. Somehow I managed to pick off the larger waves for some really great rides. Since it wasn’t very consistent, I was totally shocked that these waves rolled my way. Yeeehew.