Tag: diamond head

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Saturday Evening

2013-HIODH-11-23

Surf: 1.6 ft at 11.1 s from the SW at 233°

Wooohoooohooo. Took the fish out at Diamond Head for an evening session. It was a little harder to navigate the crowd on a smaller board, but man, I got some fun ones. I got one long right where I felt like I did all the right things. Cutback, speed around a section, turn turn turn. 😀 Finally!

Unfortunately I got a little greedy on my last wave in. I was cruising down the line when uh oh, ROCK! I tried to go high around it, but I heard a THUNK as I passed over. Thankfully the board was fine, but the fin popped off. Whoops.

Still, fun last session. I’ll miss you, Hawaii!

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Friday Morning

2013-HIODH-11-22

Surf: 2.0 ft at 11.1 s from the SSW at 214°

Got a quick surf in before having to return the longboards to Surf Garage (thank you, Surf Garage!) Still nice and smooth, but with a little less punch. With the longboards, we were cruising. Lots of fun lil waves. A guy in the lineup joked about how were were getting all the waves and asked when were heading to work so the old guys could get a few. I wound up getting a super nice left while working on my stance. Yew. Starting to figure out this stuff.

These boards were pretty fun. Nice and stable for walking around, but a solid belly for quick turns. I didn’t want to give them back!

2013-HIODH-11-22c

2013-HIODH-11-22b

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Thursday Afternoon

2013-HIODH-11-21

2013-HIODH-11-21b

Surf: 2.3 ft at 12.5 s from the SSW at 193°

So glassy smooth. Wow! Aside the morning’s minor setback, we scored some seriously amazing waves today. Glassy, not terribly crowded, a little smaller than yesterday but wave after wave after wave and plenty of sun. There was one just brilliant set where I got a big fast one. I’m not sure I kept my stance for that one, but wheee was it fun. Man o man, what a nice surf session.

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Wednesday Morning

2013-HIODH-11-20

Surf: 2.0 ft at 13.3 s from the S at 179°. High Tide.

I’ll admit, checking the surf forecast religiously before this trip, I was worried there’d be no swell. South shore was showing flat. North shore was showing flat (well, alternating flat and like 20ft which I’m not sure I’d even be able to watch without nearly drowning.) So it was a very pleasant surprise to roll up to the break this morning and see waves! Lots of waves! 😀

Lots of people, but lots of waves!

So far I’ve found people to be pretty considerate, there’s enough waves to go around and everyone’s been really friendly. The one thing I did find odd was no one moves. If you’re going for a wave, no one will move out of your line. I think part of that is that the majority of the lineup is way better than the majority of the lineup at home, so it’s expected that you will be skilled enough to go around. Why should people give up their spot when you could avoid them on your own? I’m not sure. It’s a little unnerving watching people paddle for a wave so close together, but didn’t see anyone collide.

It’s so nice to surf warm peaks and really nice to watch other people surf. There are some amazing longboarders out here.

Surfed and surfed and surfed and then got Açaí bowls. 😀