Surf: 4.3 ft at 8.3 s from the WNW at 302°
Today’s slop was a little less surfable. Not totally unsurfable, but certainly not better. Still, it’s good practice getting up early.
Slop
Surf: 3.6 ft at 6.7 s from the WNW at 293°.
Ahh yes, the post-trip home break slopfest. Still, pretty fun this morning, way more fun that waves that sloppy really should be. 🙂
Pig Luau: Sunday am
San O from surfer girl on Vimeo.
Surf: 2.0 ft at 15.4 s from the SW at 222°
Met up with Cynthia this morning. I was still a little on edge from yesterday and, since I knew I was going to be surfing with a short boarder, I though maybe I’d skip the leashless, big honking board and go for my trusty board.
The waves were a bit closed out and the morning was great, but eventually the sun came out and the waves cleaned up.
It’s been really great seeing SoCal friends on this trip. Last year we were a bit caught up with getting down here and getting to know the place and the people. This year I felt like we were a little more dialed in. Less gear, more social time. 🙂
Thanks Cynthia and Jon for making the drive up!
Saturday am Pig Luau
Surf: 1.3 ft at 16.7 s from the SW at 222°
Up early and down to the beach. I snagged one of James’s board. I can’t remember which one now, but it was one of the lighter weight noseriders and it was a blast. The tide was a little low in the morning which upped the shallow water whomp. It was a little intimidating going leashless on someone else’s board in the rocks but I didn’t lose it once. Last year I was too worried about dinging someone’s board to borrow any. My goal for this year was to borrow a lot.
The waves naturally picked up right as I was heading back up the cliffs, but it was breakfast time.
Week of glorious greys
Surf: 4.6 ft at 10.0 s from the WNW at 297°.
It’s been lovely surfing in this grey weather. My back is still sore, but surfing doesn’t seem to be aggravating it, so that’s a plus. I’m feeling somewhat in shape for the trip. Can’t wait. 😀
Skipping talks
Surf: 4.6 ft at 9.1 s from the WNW at 303°.
I skipped out on a lecture this morning to go surf. I’ve been hitting lots of lectures this week for Design Week. It was a tough call. Sitting is hurting my back, so I went with waves. Not too bad out there.
Calmer winds
Surf: 3.3 ft at 14.8 s from the SW at 217°.
This morning was much better. The waves were smooth, the winds were light, and it started to rain while I was out there. I’ve missed the rain.
My back is still killing me, but I’ve got an appointment with a Chiro next week. Doc says my SI joint is inflamed so I’d be willing to bet there’s lots of stretching in my future. Whatever I can do to patch up before San O!
Howling Wind
Surf: 3.3 ft at 12.9 s from the W at 262°. Sudden gusts to 25+ mph.
This was not cool, wind, not cool at all. pic.twitter.com/Xo4axI3lms
— Chris Seidensticker (@st1ck3r) June 9, 2015
I agree with Sticker. That was not cool.
I suited up, the surf looked passable, but by the time I’d walked down to the beach the wind went from a light breeze to gale force winds. By the time I’d finished chasing down a few wind-torn closeouts, my face was beat red and completely windburnt.
And, of course, as I packed up my gear, the wind calmed back down and the waves smoothed out again. Ahh, surfing. 🙂
Still Grey
Surf: 3.3 ft at 14.8 s from the SSW at 199°. NW winds at 17kn. Rising tide.
Woke up feeling like this low back pain was just a blip on the radar. Unfortunately when I pulled up to the beach, it was right back to being a mess. Doing what I always do, I said “well, I’m already down here, I’ll just suit up.”
Paddling around wasn’t too bad. I brought my 9’4 and had a much easier time getting in to waves, but with my back hurting, I wasn’t feeling great about the drops or the steep inside section. It was better than being skunked again, but I don’t think I did myself any favors. Hoping all this heals up before my San O trip! :S
Skunked
Surf: 3.9 ft at 17.4 s from the SW at 214°. High tide. NW winds 20kn.
Was hoping for more waves like yesterday, but the wind was up and all the usual spots were junked up.
Further south there was a beautiful peak with a crowd on it, but otherwise clean. I didn’t get a single wave, but had a great time watching everyone else take off.
Big downside: after driving back up to the city, I got out of my car and my back was really sore. It seemed pretty out of the blue. Ugh. I so don’t need another chronic thing keeping me out of the water. Hope this eases up soon.