Surf: 3.9 ft at 11.4 s from the WSW at 254°. Incoming tide.
The surf really came down from Tuesday. There were dribbly, shallow waves and not much else. I couldn’t tell if it was my sore back or having surfed my 6’10 earlier in the week, but I was surfing pretty terribly. While floating around, blowing waves, I saw a sea lion rolling on it’s back, waving a flipper at me. Hiya!
Eventually I got a wave in that was slightly competent and figured ehh probably good enough.
Surf: 5.9 ft at 12.1 s from the NW at 304°. Incoming.
I’ve been looking for an excuse to take my hull out for a while. I figured there might be some size and was hoping my usual spot would have some waves on offer. Oddly enough, it didn’t. There was a choice of large closeouts and small closeouts. I went with the small ones and was able to work out a wave here and there with my 6’10. I was mostly relieved I still know how to ride it. I even got in a fancy (but mostly accidental) cutback with some spray.
Surf: 2ft @ 15s from the WSW at 232°. High tide.
That swell sure dropped fast!
I rolled up in the dark and could see just a few glassy ripples. Paddling out, I could just barely make out waves. Thankfully there were a few out there. With a little patience, I was able to get some nice peeling waves and shuffle way up the nose. Chris swooshed his way through all the little sections. It was pretty fun. Seems like small summer waves aren’t over just yet.
Surf: 4.9 ft at 10.0 s from the NW at 324°
The surf was pretty small today, but at least it was clean. I had a few moments where it was just three of us out on a little peak, making the most of the waves on offer. It was fun, but it was a lot of waiting. More and more people paddled out and it became harder to make something work. That’s ok, I headed in to work at a decent time instead.
Surf: 4ft @ 7s from the WNW at 309°. High tide.
If yesterday was weird, today was pretty funky. Way more doubled up and a lot less clean, but still decent enough. I got a few zippy, walkable rights right off the bat. Plenty of sloshing around underwater that makes me think fall is here. Weird “the wave is only breaking the the rip” problems that make me think fall is not yet here.
Surf: 3′ @ 6s from the WNW at 303°. High tide. Light local winds. 12 mph at the buoy.
I had some pretty low expectations for today. The weekend was really fun and the winds out at sea were blowing. I figured it would be a mess at the beach.
It was actually pretty rideable! The morning started out clean but a little inconsistent. As the tide rolled in, the waves got weirder, but there were more of them. I shuffled way up on some inside sections. Not bad out there.
Surf: 3.9 ft at 16.0 s from the SSW at 193°.
The morning started totally socked in with fog. We’ve been in a heatwave and wow, is this grey morning ever welcome. This is the summer I’ve missed. Grey, glassy mornings with mellow little waves and an easy paddle. The swell slowed down a bit, but there was still a little bit of a wave here and there to get some practice in. Hoping for more glassy, grey mornings ahead.
Surf: 3.6 ft at 16.0 s from the SSW at 204°
Wow, the ocean was so glassy and pink this morning to match the amazing sunrise. The waves were small, but super smooth. I got in a little cross stepping practice and even found a few lefts were I could really get the rail in and hang way out on the nose all the way into the last closed-out section. Fun fun.
Surf: 5.6 ft at 9.1 s from the WNW at 302°
All long weekend long! Woohoo, got in lots of surf and outdoor time this weekend so I’m super stoked. The weather’s been hot and, even though the waves have been closed out, it’s still pretty surfable and fun. I got a few big swooping waves. Pretty fun weekend!
Surf: 5.9 ft at 9.1 s from the NW at 306°.
Yesss, made it out Sunday, too.
Today made me realize how easy I’ve had it easy all summer. Lots of little waves, plenty of easy rips, and things that could almost be called sandbars. Now it’s all whomp and stomp. I got a workout for a change. Maybe one or two real waves. I’m working on my cutback kickouts, so a whomping wave isn’t all bad. Plus, when I screw it up I really go flying 😉
