Tag: dawn patrol

Surf: 5ft at 20s from the W at 271°

Fun, chilly morning out there. Chris, Debbie, and I had my favorite little corner all to ourselves. It was very fortunate becasue I’d taken the Hull out and it’s much easier for me to pick off the inside waves when it’s only me on the inside. I shared a few waves with Chris, but mostly wiggled my way up and down a few faces. Sure was chilly! With the handful of winter storms we’ve had so far, the beach is mostly rocks and it was quite the challenge to scramble across them with my cold toes. Still, pretty fun morning. 😀

Surf: 6.6 ft at 17.4 s from the W at 274°. Windy.

It’s been a while since I’ve done the “before the storm, howling south winds” surf. Ooooh hooo hooo, my face is stinging. We took our friend Seth out with us since the surf was small. He managed to get a wave, even with the offshores so fierce I got blown right back out of a few waves.

With the exception of my board scraping across the parking lot when I tried to suit up (I even waited till the last possible minute to get it out of the bag just in case and it still got scraped!) it was a fun little morning. A little less tide and it’d have been perfect. With all these winter storms on the way, there should be plenty of chances to get the right howling winds with the right tide.

Surf: 4.6 ft at 13.8 s from the WNW at 300°

Rainbow! 😀 😀 😀

Seriously, what a great way to start the morning.

Surfwise, the morning was pretty fun. I had very low expectations. Chris went out the day before and said it was big, cold, and miserable. He broke a leash plug in that slow. I was pretty releaves to see mushy, but pretty peak-like waves. It was a little challenging to catch the waves with the tide kind of high, but otherwise fun.

Surf: 4.3 ft at 10.0 s from the WNW at 289°

Wow, the swell really dropped. Things were a little smaller and a little slower, but still not too bad. More opportunities to work on my steps. Nice morening though. Glad to get some exercise in. I think I’ll be too busy next week to surf, so of course, I bet the surf will be amazing.

Surf: 7.2 ft at 10.8 s from the WNW at 290°

Lots of pink fog this morning with the sunrise and the cool air. The waves weren’t much better, but I made the most of it. I hit up the same little spot and had a lot of fun. I swished through some fast sections and worked on getting as far up as I could, even though the wave was just going to dump me. Not too bad.

Surf: 5.6 ft at 12.9 s from the WNW at 297°

Yeah, it was a little funky and a little closed out today, but, there were a couple little corners that were working, given enough patience. Chris headed upbeach, but I wasn’t feeling the crowd and found a spot downbeach that was working just fine. I managed to work a couple waves and a couple steps out of the mess. Pretty fun!

Surf: 4ft @ 11s from the WNW at 301°, incoming.

I feel like every time I get back into a good groove, something happens and I’m out of my surfing groove again.

The upside is that, when I am able to get back in the water, if feels almost like I never left.

I’m not feeling great so I skipped the crowd and took a small, inconsistent peak. It was perfect. I got some steps in, I did some swooshing, and I didn’t have to work very hard to enjoy myself. Not bad. Now if I can just do it three more times this week, and next week, and the week after… maybe I can say I’m back for good.

 

Surf: 7.2 ft at 14.8 s from the WNW at 293°

The forecast and buoys were showing a lot of energy in the water. The thick fog was showing no clues as to wether or not that energy had arrived. I opted for the one part of the beach I could see. There were some long lulls like it was a big swell, but for the most part, it was reasonably sized. I saw Chris getting some nice ones on the next peak over. My peak had a few zippy ones. Plenty of closeouts. All we need are some sand bars and we should be set for some fun this winter.

 
Surf: 4ft @ 9s from the W at 276°

High tide, more swell, more wind all add up to more work. Still a few fun ones out there, but a lot more closed out and a lot more paddling. Hopefully days like this will get me back in fall shape. 

 
Surf: 4′ @ 9s from the W at 275°. Outgoing. Light offshore. 

I had low expectations for the morning. Paddled out to find a fun little right. It took a fair amount of speed to make the steep inside section so no cross stepping practice today. It was all drop, turn, and swoosh along a good high line. I had a couple so steep it felt like only the smallest edge of the rail was holding on. Whew! 

Great foggy sunrise this morning, too. Light fog all around the little cove. Lovely!