Tag: dawn patrol

Surf: 3-4ft. Fast! 310º Northwest 8.5 ft @ 12.1 sec

I forgot my glasses. I was running a little late so I just went without them. My eyes aren’t that bad, but I like having them to drive and to give the waves a good staredown from the lot.

I missed the staredown. Chris and Daniel were already suited up and heading in. I have a half stare and though “looks small but clean, I’ll take it!”

Around the time I was paddling out I realized it was racy with some oomph! Not small at all. Not huge sure, but looked niiiiice.

My first wave was super fun. Really fast and held up. There were a few sections I thought were going to break right on top of me but I zipped around. Weeeeee. So fun!

After that I kinda floundered around. I’m still really tired from Wednesday and couldn’t quite ooomph it up. Every time I’d sit inside, a cleanup set would come. I got a few okayish moments in, but nothing like the first ride. Still plenty fun to hoot it up for everyone else. Lots of great rides this morning. Everyone was getting a little something special.

Surf: Thigh to Head high. Inconsistent. Warm offshore breeze.

Lots of hemming and hawing in the parking lot this morning. While tamer than the previous days, things were inconsistent. Some folks opted not to paddle out, we paddle out looking for something fun.

The first spot we tried was mushy and barely breaking. The next spot we tried up on the larger side was a lot more fun. Waves were still a bit funky, but fun. I got a few fun rides. I also dropped in on a dude. Dang. I didn’t see him on the inside of me in the sun. Luckily it was a pretty mellow morning and I could atone with lagging back on a few waves and steering clear for a while.

Fun moment when Daniel and I were on the inside of a cleanup set. He cheered for the oncoming beatdown. I was laughing so hard I almost didn’t get in a good breath before the wash cycle. I fought back out to get one to ride in. Nearly stomped myself in the shorebreak too. Gotta love a day that swings wildly from thigh high to head high from wave to wave.

Warm offshore sure was nice.

Surf: Chest high, clean, peeling, lovely.

My brother came to visit for the weekend! 😀

After a fun weekend watching the world series and going to Halloween parties, I took him out for an early AM surf. Surfing California is a lot different than Hawaii, so I did my best to prepare him for cold water, less than clear conditions, and less than mellow waves. I’ll admit, they were probably a little too big and a little too challenging for his third time ever surfing.

He did a great job padding out, keeping control of the board, and avoiding the bigger waves. Even better than that, he’s a great wavespotter. Wes was able to spot incoming sets and pick out the best waves consistently. He called me in to a few great waves, a couple that I got some compliments on. Yeah!

Wes didn’t really get a solid ride in, many good attempts but the waves were a little too steep for a clean ride. Next time I think we’ll hit Bolinas or mosey down to Cowells with a couple of soft tops. I’m glad he got to see how I spend my mornings. Hopefully next time I can call him into a few nice gentle rollers and find him some waves where he can have a little more fun.

Bonus: The Giants won the World Series! What a great weekend to be in town. 😀

Surf: Waist high, little inconsistent. Howling offshore winds. 8.5ft @ 12.12 from the WNW at 287°

It’s been a while since the winds have blown offshore. They decided to make up for their absence with strong offshore gusts. Waves took some serious paddling and some crossed fingers to get down. More than a few riders were hucked back up the wave by the wind.

Chris provided some navigation duty, shouting to folks when they were almost there. A few folks got some nice ones.

Surf: Head High closeouts or waist high peelers. Not much in between.

Managed to pick up a little bit of face time at the bigger end. Not pretty, mostly drop, run, wash. I looked over my shoulder to see a sizeable closeout gnawing away at itself. Whew, glad to have outrun it. A few exploding unhappy waves later, we went on a paddling tour or the beach to snag some slow small waves. Caught a few fun little rolling waves. Better than getting whomped on. 🙂

Finally got to see the bioluminescent closeouts before the sun came up.

Surf: Waist high, mellow.

Longer lulls today with softer waves. Still fun, still friendly. Another lovely sunrise.

Surf: Waist to Chest high, cleanish.

Man, what a sunrise and what a sky. Beautiful morning out there. Somewhat inconsistent waves. A few whomping closeouts but all around good time. Nice fun day back in the water after a week off.