Surf: 7.6 ft at 9.1 s from the WNW at 302°. Incoming tide.
The swell finally came up and with it, the funk. The waves were crossed up and a little windblown, but it wasn’t impossible. We started out on the south end and got a few waves here and there before paddling north and trying that out. Both side of the beach were short rides and some weird sections. Still nice to get out, especially in this warm weather!
Surf: 5.9 ft at 9.1 s from the WNW at 303°. Onshore. Outgoing.
I’ll admit, I had some high hopes for this morning. I thought maybe with the storm coming that there’d be favorable winds, but sadly it was onshore and ragged. I’ve surfed worse, so I still had some fun.
Oh, and there was a photographer out. He got some nice ones of Chris and one or two of me.
Check out his site at:Â Stoney’s Photography
Surf: 5.9 ft at 13.8 s from the W at 265°. High and incoming tide. Side/onshore winds.
Since I snapped my leash last time, I borrowed one of the heavy duty leashes I bought for Chris afer he’d snapped two leashes in a row. Holy crap those things are SERIOUS. I can’t remember the brand off the top of my head. They’re solid. It felt like I was dragging a pile of kelp behind me, but hey, it didn’t break! I was explaining the situation of me buying Chris this leash after he’d snapped one to Don who said “Don’t ever send her out to buy you a gun, she’ll bring back a cannon.” I might’ve overdone it.
Heavy as it was, the leash didn’t slow me down too much. I got a few fun waves and Jeff got some photos of Chris and I from the beach. Fun stuff!
Check out Jeff’s photos on Instagram.
Surf: 3.3 ft at 11.4 s from the WNW at 283°.
I love love love my pre-storm surf sessions. It had rained a little already, but everything was still in the south winds, mellow waves part of the storm. I was happy to get out there while I could. Once it rains I’ll be out of the water for a while to avoid getting sick before the wedding.
The waves were small, but clean and fun.
Bring on the rain!
Surf: 5.3 ft at 10.0 s from the WNW at 292°.
Yesssss. It was much cleaner today. Sure, the size went down, but the shape was a lot better. We started out with a few small waves at the south end where we’d been the day before. Those really held up and I could work on a few steps. Sadly, it was pretty crowded and a little too much chaos.
Paddling north, the waves got larger. What I couldn’t see in the glare was the crowd was about the same size. Thankfully many people in that crowd were friends and people were sharing waves well. I got a few really fun fast ones. It was a blast.
Surf: 3.9 ft at 10.0 s from the WNW at 286°. High tide, outgoing.
The swell came down and the wind came up, but I wad looking for some exercise and figured I could make the most of it. Sure enough, there was a wave or two out there. I had at least one where I got way way up on the nose, despite the chop.
About halfway through the session, I hear someone yelling my name. It was Veronica! 😀 We haven’t surfed together since way back when I learned and I can’t remember the last time I saw here. It was really great to catch up and I’m so glad she’s still surfing.
Surf: 5.9 ft at 12.1 s from the W at 271°. High and outgoing.
Life has been busy busy lately. I’d stayed out of the water last week as it was pouring rain and the water was filthy. This week I was slammed with work. I finally had to just stop, take a day off and recover. I got enough done to be able to sneak out for a morning surf. With the time change and my 10am meeting, it was a short and slightly rushed session, but I got some fun waves and I got to feel a little more like myself.
Hoping things will get a little more manageable, soon.
Surf: 6.9 ft at 13.8 s from the WSW at 248°. Outgoing.
This morning was closed out and funks, but boy was this bodyboarder excited to get out there. He was hooting and skipping down the beach. I hope he had a blast out there.
I surfed like a bit of a mess today, but still managed to make a few waves work. It was a funny mix of totally blowing takeoffs and getting some fun high lines before waves whomped shut. I think everyone was happy to have one more day of surf before the big rains come.
Surf: 7.2 ft at 21.1 s from the W at 271°. Incoming.
Still closed out and lumpy, but I love those foggy mornings. Brien made it out, too! Just about had the whole surf team back together. I bet the swell was really pounding other spots, but it was nice and small here.
Surf: 8.5 ft at 14.8 s from the W at 263°
After that awesome run of surfing almost every day a few weeks back, I got hit with Jury Duty. And not just “show up for a few hours and get dismissed” jury duty. I got on a trial. Ouch. It was really stressful, but informative.
The first thing I wanted to do the day after it was over was get back in the water. The surf wasn’t great, but man oh man was it better than sitting in an uncomfortable chair listening to people argue.
I managed to work some nice long rides out of a few, which was a great surprise to me because driving up all I saw were closeouts. Thank you, wave gods, for giving me a scrap of two to build my stoke back with. Wheyeew.
