Pre-storm Blues

2016-lm-10-12

Surf: 3.0 ft at 14.3 s from the WSW at 245°

This morning looked a little closed out and a little uninspiring, but I gave it a shot anyway. I’m glad I did. It was really fun. The waves were small and clean. Lots of friendly folks were out, too. Between my work and my shoulder, I don’t get to see the usual folks nearly as often. It’s nice to hear that everyone’s doing well and catching waves. Well, except for Joel who separated his shoulder. Ouch. Heal up fast and right, man!

 

Closeouts

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Surf: 2.3 ft at 10.5 s from the SW at 284°

Today started out foggy, then the sun came out. Things were more closed out, but hey, it’s always good to get out.

Foggy

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Surf: 2.6 ft at 14.3 s from the SW at 221°.

Rolled up to a clear, sunny beach with a fog back hovering off shore. A few waves in, the bank swallowed the beach whole. I’ve missed these foggy mornings. With almost no wind the waves were nice a smooth. A little closed out, but plenty fun anyway.

Meh

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Surf: 2.0 ft at 11.1 s from the W at 261°

Wednesday was so fun that I’d set my hopes a little too high for Friday. A lower tide, a slightly different swell, and a breeze all had things looking plenty average. Ahh well. I got some exercise and I ran into Julie Ann in the lot and it sounds like it shaped up for her a little as the tidecame back in. 🙂

Fish

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Surf: 2.0 ft at 15.4 s at 231° SW

This morning’s waves were small and clean, great for some longboard practice. We found a spot working away from the main group and nabbed plenty of fun ones. I worked on my cross step a little and mostly enjoyed the sunshine.

The water was clear enough I could see a school of pretty good sized fish go by. Normally I see small fish like anchovies or sardines, fish in the 6″ range. These guys were a good foot. It was really cool to see them zipping along in the wave I was riding.

I told the fisherman on the beach that I saw a big school, just over there, and he laughed “None of them are biting!”

Meanwhile, up at Ocean Beach, there were much, much bigger fish out and about. This juvenille’s splashing around was caught on the Surfline cam. Pretty cool!

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Attempt 2

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Surf: 5.6 ft at 7.1 s from the WNW at 297°. Low and incoming tide.

After last weekends attempt at getting back into my surf routine, my shoulder was really hurting. I tried today, this time with some light stretching immediately after, then more when I got home to park my car before going into the office. I also iced everything, which I think helped.

Shoulder was feeling okay.

Session was a little tough. The conditions were kind of crap and I got a huge ball of seagrass, about the side of a barrel, wrapped around my leash. I couldn’t move! I got whomped by a set while trying to get my board free and get out of the way. That was frustrating. The rest of the session was fine. I think we made the most of those junky waves and it was a nice sunrise.

 

Friday Morning: C Street

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Surf: 2.6 ft at 16.7 s at 179°. Low tide and incoming. Glassy.

Oh man, this morning was SO FUN. Derek was already waiting for us. The size was up a little but things were still looking fun and clean. This is the kind of summer surf I’ve been wanting all spring: super smooth, grey, nice shape, long rides. It was a blast.

Derek brought his gopro and got a few shots of us out in the water. All of us got some great rides and again, people were really friendly and stoked. I say people getting awesome rides up and down the beach.

What a great way to start our trip. I can’t wait to come back.

DCIM101GOPRO

DCIM102GOPRO

 

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Thursday Morning: C Street

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Surf: 2.0 ft at 18.2 s from the S at 186°. Low tide and incoming. Glassy.

I was slow to get moving this morning, but tried my best to rally as we were meeting Derek at C Street at 6:30.

Pulling up, the surf looked so fun. Super smooth and much better shape from the evening before. Oh man it was nice. Sure, some waves took some paddling to chance down, but overall it was a perfect june gloomy surfy morning.

It was great to catch up with Derek. We got a couple fun party waves in plus plenty of nice ones for both him and Chris.

After Derek headed off to work, we hit up Pete’s Breakfast House. I wolfed down a waffle, potatoes, eggs, and sausage like it was nothing. What a solid post-surf “Yes I’m going to eat all of this so double the bacon” spot.

We hit up County Line after. That place was big. The swell was cutting in just right that it was well overhead and just slamming shut on the inside. Between the whomp and the food coma, I decided to just watch. People were tearing it up out there. Yew.

I bet it’s already huge down in San O and only getting bigger. 😮

Chilly bodysurf sesh

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Surf: 4.3 ft at 17.4 s from the SSW at 195°. Outgoing.

The surf was small and basically shorebreak today. I decided to bodysurf rather than go risk my fin in the shallows. Wouldn’t you know it, the day people in the lot are giving me shit about the holes in my wetsuit is also the day the water is FREEEEEZING cold? I said nah, it’s fine, I can hold out till November and get another suit in the fall. Then, about chest deep in the water I though, hmm, maybe this suit is a little too chilly for comfort.

I got a comple fun waves. Sure enough, it looked better as I was about to leave. By then I was too frozen to grab the board and catch a few more.

Memorial Day Weekend Monday

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Surf: 5.6 ft at 8.3 s from the NW at 309°.

Finally managed to get up and get doing at a decent hour this weekend. With the holiday, it was crowded, but it was still pretty fun. There were some lefts and some rights working. It was still a funky mix of closeouts and waves that didn’t break, but the weather was amazing and every now and then a wave would work.

Thank you, Coast Guard for your service.