Surf: 5.6 ft at 11.4 s from the W at 271°. Windy.
Well, it’s spring, that’s for sure. Windy, sloppy, and a little hard to get motivated.
My friend Brien busted his face all up in a surf accident a few weeks ago. While he’s recovering, he offered to snap some photos on the beach.
The waves weren’t exactly photogenic, but it wasn’t totally unsurfable. Lots of zipping into and out of closeouts. Here’s a few snaps:
Surf: 6.9 ft at 12.9 s from the WNW at 288°. Incoming.
Last week was an off week (really not loving this on/off schedule) so I was itching to get out this week. Unfortunately the spring winds were up and the waves were closed out. My blue board is dinged so I took my hull out and was just not really getting in to waves. I got a couple short fast ones. Chris was cruising no problem. I mostly spent my time duck diving. One positive note for the day, there were a few larger closeouts out there. I had a moment where I was scrambling to get out and over but didn’t make it in time. I didn’t freak out, but instead got a good breath and held on. Whew.
Hoping next week will break the on/off pattern.
Surf: 3.6 ft at 14.8 s from the WSW at 257°
In keeping with an on-week, one more day of surf! Today was a little more closed out and definitely more crowded, but workable. Chatted up some folks, soaked up some sun, got in a step move. Can’t beat this March weather. The wind was blowing so hard G had to pull and extra special move to jam the nose down and zip off on a wave. Fun stuff. Seems a little late for a south swell, but as long as some of my favorite corners see a little bit of wrap (or cross swell) and favorable winds, I’m happy.
Surf: 3.6 ft at 16.0 s from the WSW at 241°. Incoming. Offshore.
Yay! I’ve been promising Esther “Small clean waves” for a while only to have meh bleh waves show up. This morning had the right amount of everything. Little waves, offshore winds, hardly anyone out. Couldn’t ask for more!
It was great to catch up with folks and catch lots of little waves. I even managed to get a cross step up with a cross step back. Back has been a really tricky move for me. I can step up, then I shuffle back. This time, I pulled it off. Smooth little waves are pretty much perfect for that kind of thing. 🙂
Surf: 5.9 ft at 8.3 s from the NW at 319°. Incoming.
I’ve been trying to get back in to a good surf rhythm again. So far it’s been 1 week on, 1 week off. I’m not thrilled to have an off week, but the on weeks sure are fun.
The waves were a little sloppy in the morning, but were rideable and eventually cleaned up. My blue board really can make the most out of anything so I found a few corners that shaped up into waves. Sadly I dinged the poor board so it’ll be wrapped up in tape till I can get some tint to do the repairs.
Surf: 3.6 ft at 16.0 from the WSW at 238°, less tide but still very high.
Today was a little bit better. Waves were still on the sloppy side, but there was more size and a little bit of shape here and there. It took plenty of patience, paddling, and watching, but really, wasn’t so bad. I swooshed my log around some sections and got a little bit of shuffling in. Last week was too busy to get in any surf time, so I’m grateful for even these less than stellar waves.
Chris has a new flothru fin from Surfapig. He needs more time and better waves to give it a proper test, but so far so good! It looks super cool, too. I can’t wait to try it out.
Surf: 2.3 ft at 13.8 s from the SW at 229°. High tide.
The tide was a little too high this morning for the lack of swell. Most places were seeing shin high shorebreak, if that. After a little driving around, we settled on somewhere with a bit of a wave shaped blob and lots of wind. Upside, very few people out. There were a few waves that worked here and there. I blew what was probably the wave of the day, but managed to squeeze lemonade out of a few other barely-wave waves.
Surf: 7.6 ft at 12.1 s from the W at 268°
Yay! The south winds are up which means that rain is on the way. I got going a little too early this morning and spent a a good 15 minutes standing around in the dark trying to make out if there were even waves out there. It was much smaller that yesterday and plenty closed but fun enough with the right gust of wind to keep things going. No rain yet today, but it should be coming sometime soon!
Surf: 5.3 ft at 11.4 s from the WNW at 293°
Nice to come back to cold waters when there’s such a beautiful sunrise. As is my tradition, my first day back from nice waves means weird, sloshy waves. Thankfully it was still surf-able and I got to say hello to lots of folks. Wound up making a couple waves work under a very pink morning sky.
Surf: 2.3 ft at 11.8 s from the W at 275°
I snuck out for a little more surf. Since I’m walking down there and it’s too far for a surf check first, I wasn’t entirely sure what was in store. I figured it was totally flat, I’d at least get a nice paddle around the bay and check out the spots.
Thankfully there were some fun little thigh high cruisers out there. I started at Canoes because it was a bit more frequent and shaped oh so nice for working on my steps. After a few waves, I paddled back to Queens for less crowded waves and a bit more oomfh. Sadly I didn’t have time to try a few of the other spots. I had to take a conference call. I listened in the park for a bit, then hung out by the pool to listen a little longer. Pretended to noseride on the edge of the pool.
Massages, malasadas, and lunch after.
