Surf: Small, clean. Fun! 267º W 3ft at 14.8seconds
Chris got a camera! Today was a perfect day to try it out. Super mellow, peak all to ourselves. Great great great.
I got in a few paddle-less takeoffs (and a few not successful attempts) and some great rides. Chris got some pretty fun pictures (including a great video of me completely wiping out and the wave that took me out taking him out.) Hopefully I can repay the favor on another super fun little day.
Surf: Inconsistent, but somewhat peeling. 6.6 ft @ 8.3 sec from NW 317º
Over drinks the night before, there were promises made of Sunday morning surf meet up. I said no no no, I couldn’t possibly. I’m tired, I’m not feeling well, excuse goes here. Well, I went anyway. The instigator of the plan didn’t show, but plenty of other folks did.
Standing in the lot I grumbled about how sloppy, small and uninspiring things looked. In the water things were much better. I got plenty of small smooth little rides. Not too shabby after all.
Afterwards we demolished some serious lunch. Good day spent with friends.
Surf:Inconsistent Waist-Shoulder high. 9.5 ft @ 16 sec from the NW 315º
Brr. Today felt colder than those days when the air temps were in the 30’s. Everyone in the lot was bundled in hats and scarves. Except for the hours of shivering after, there’s something pretty romantic about laughing with friends standing on the beach while all covered up in hats and mittens and scarves.
The waves were not so oddly picturesque. Indecisive warbley things. Hard to pick out. Got in a few fun rides but mostly paddle for lumps that turned out to be nothing or secretly 4 waves bunched together.
Surf: 7.9 Feet @ 14.8 Seconds 294º West NW
Plenty fun in the usual place. Lots of long left lines. Had to work a little harder today. Vs curent and vs softer waves.
I’d been bringing christmas cookies to the lot since getting back. For the most part it’s just been me and Chris mowing through them. Finally got around to distributing them a little better, handing a few off to Andrew.
Hopefully I’ll get around to making another batch.
Surf: Waist-Shoulder high. 6.9 Feet @ 16 Seconds from the NW 310º
Hello 2011. You greet me with sunshine, a beautiful pink sky, and froggies singing in the marsh. Some pretty fun waves in the usual spot we’ve been so fortunate to enjoy this winter. Plenty of current and a little crowd to keep people on their toes.
Surf: Fun, cold, somewhat inconsistent. Waist High to Head+. Crowded. NNW 330º 6.9 Feet at 11.4 Seconds
Plenty of long rides and big drops today.
What a year. I’ve enjoyed some very bright moments (having work again, getting into a more consistent dawn patrol habit, that nice working left we’ve had all winter) and I’ve had some tough times.
I started this little surf site to share my experiences learning how to surf with my family back home, mainly my grandmother. When she passed away in June, I was very tempted to let the site go. I missed her terribly and somehow taking quick pictures of the surf felt a little empty.
Looking back on all my pictures, it’s nice to have the memories. I remember calling my grandmother and telling her about this surf day or that one. I like having the record too, even if it is silly.
I’m looking forward to a few things on 2011. I try not to be too specific, I like to enjoy the good things as they come and not get too hung up on expectations.
Here’s to all the good things, good people, and good waves of 2010. Remember them all fondly and forever. Here’s wishing many good things for 2011.
Surf: Inconsistent 2-4ft+ waves. Lots of closeouts. 306º Northwest 7.5 ft @ 11.4 sec
Decent swell coming in, offshore winds, icy cold spray…seemed like it should have been a pretty good day. Other spots were breaking nicely, but Linda Mar just wasn’t taking it well. Got a few waves, some fun drops, but not real long rides and plenty of sloshing around. Nice to have the sun out for a change.
Had to cut things short to take at work call. Yay for mobile phones and headsets. Sat on the beach for over an hour watching things clean up a little. Saw a few people get some nice little rides and a few people get demolished.
Surf: Plenty unruly for most of the beach. Mellow and crumbly waist-chest high for the other part of the beach. 294º WNW 8.9 ft @ 12.1 sec
I never know what board to bring when it’s on the bigger side at Linda Mar. It could be big, clean, and racy. If it is, I’d rather have my 9. Not as much foam makes it easier to handle on the inside, but it’s still a big board to get into the waves farther out where they are softer.
If it’s unruly for most of the beach, but soft and mellow down south, my big glidey 9’4 is lots of fun. Plenty of foam to get into waves and swoosh around. Yay.
I brought my 9’4 and swooshed around in some crumbly surf. Got a few fun ones in with friendly folks tucked just out of the way of the unruliness.
Surf: Small, very mellow, clean. 289º WNW 4.9 Feet @ 9.1 Seconds
Brr. I wind up staying out WAY longer on slow small days. I don’t realize how much time passes while I’m bobbing about looking for waves.
I got a few, wanted a few more, and surfed till I was too cold and tired to move. Lots of other longboarders out there goofing off in the little waves. Fancy footwork, noserides, friendly chatter.
I went home and buried myself under blankets till I thawed out.
Surf: Waist-Chest High. Somewhat closed out. 279º WNW 5.6 ft at 10 sec
YAWN. Slept through my alarm and missed the morning shift. I only have a few days to surf before heading back home for the holidays and the big family vacation so I went out anyway.
The usual left was plenty crowded and not doing much. I headed north to another left with a handful of shortboarders. I was happy to have the big board to get into these mushy waves, but they closed out pretty quick and the slog back out with that much foam was exhausting.
I got a few fun rides out of it though. One right I took was a big drop. I got a little bit of face and a top turn before bailing as it closed out. I paddled back to some wide eyes and compliments on what was evidently a huge swooping bottom turn. “Dang, I wish I’d had a camera!” one guy said. 😀
Big current. Whole ocean was pulling out and south. Wore myself out pretty good keeping in place and catching waves.
