Surf: 6.6 ft at 13.8 s from the W at 279°
More closed out than yesterday. Still a little crowded. Sort of feeling like I was back to square one as far as not really getting into anything. I did get one decent ride, so there’s that. 🙂
Some more waves
Surf: 7.2 ft at 12.9 s from the WNW at 293°.
Less wind, less size, and more crowds today, but also more waves! Yesss. No cutbacks today, but I’ll take quantity if I can get it. Wheee. I had a lot more luck getting into waves later, and stealing more face than I thought any of these waves would allow. There were some fast ones, and some lumpy wobbily ones, but all and all, surfed. Whew.
Some waves
Surf: 8.5 ft at 11.4 s from the WNW at 296°. High tide. ENE Winds.
I may have only snagged two waves today, but they were both actual waves. Bottom turns, top turns, cutbacks, nice long rides. Whew. It’s nice to know that once I get up, I can surf at least a little bit.
Junky surf
Surf: 6.9 ft at 12.9 s from the W at 270°. High tide.
The wind is up and the surf is junky, but that’s probably the best I’ve surfed all week. I’m so confused. Maybe I can only surf when the surf is lousy? It’s a possibility.
Got some nice long rides,cutbacks even. Not bad for a pretty junky day.
Wedge
Surf: 3.3 ft at 11.4 s from the W at 268°
Had a lot of hope after the weekend surf…but no. Another frustrating session. Uff.
Surf was real wedgey today, closed out too. I dunno, it just wasn’t working for me. I got a wave, but mostly paddled around feeling in the way. Really fun watching Eduardo and all the body boarders getting some nice rides. Holy crap. That looked fun!
PM: Ocean Beach
Surf: 2.6 ft at 8.3 s from the WNW at 296°
Got a text from Tim after the morning surf saying he was paddling out further north. I was still in my wetsuit so figured, why the hell not?
Sure I was totally exhausted, and the first 45 min or so was steep closeouts (not super fun on the hull), but man am I glad I went back out. I eventually got some fun ones when the tide started heading back out. It’s nice to know that surfing that hull at ocean beach is possible. I’d given up after the last round of faceplants, but hey, there was some change for swish in all that whomp.
I swapped boards with Tim for a bit. He managed to get barreled on my hull. I didn’t scratch into anything on his 5’8. Nice watching someone surf my board well.
After wearing myself totally out, slammed some wings and pizza at Pizza Place. Nom. Good day.
AM: Linda Mar
Surf: 3.0 ft at 9.1 s from the WNW at 289°
Took the hull out this morning since the waves were supposed to be small. Good thing, too, it was small, soft, and crowded. Having an extra half foot came in handy. I got one nice, long swooping left, but after that all the waves were short, crowded mushouts.
After a lot of floating around, we switched to bodysurfing the shorebreak. That was FUN, and dangerous, holy smokes. People were surfing the shorebreak, so some waves were a little too much party. All and all, not bad for total chaos.
Still Frustrated
Surf: 3.3 ft at 11.4 s from the W at 266°
Today’s plan was “go back to Linda Mar, keep working on the basics.” I did get some more waves, but I’m still frustrated. I know that I’ve got a lot to learn. I remember when learning my longboard that I pretty much had to celebrate any wave I got, rather than expecting more, but it’s peen pretty hard to keep perspective. I just want to surf! Arg!
New Year
Surf: 3.3 ft at 12.9 s from the WNW at 287°
The sunrise was extra beautiful this morning, but man, was I ever frustrated. I thought I had a plan: keep paddling. Sadly I flipped down the face of a few waves before retreating back to my usual “not paddling enough” strategy.” After that it was blown wave after blown wave. I got a little something, but was mostly miserably frustrated. Uff.
NYE morn
Surf: 5.6 ft at 14.8 s from the WNW at 297°
Fun little small waves this morning. Still struggling to get in to stuff (plus trying to take is easy on my sore neck.) Plenty of closeouts, but not a terrible little morning. Still feeling like I’m in a surf rut though. Hoping 2014 is a little more shredding filled.