Tag: california

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Bing!

2014-LM-02-25a

2014-LM-02-25b
Harbor seal bodysurfer

2014-LM-02-25c
Repairing the breakwall

Surf: 4.3 ft at 10.0 s from the W at 297°

Ben mentioned needing to part with his lovely Bing Gold Standard in order to make room for a new board on the way. After a week of agonizing (is 9’6 too big? Do I want this board? Should Chris buy this board instead of me?), I reluctantly passed and Chris snatched it up.

Of course I had to try it out. I did the sensible thing and waited till after he got some swooping big waves, some step-filled long waves, and a few closeouts before asking to ride it.

It’s fuuun. Stable, I got some walking around. Swooshy, I got some swooshing in.

I did totally manage to wreck myself falling on the fin. Got a nice bruise on my ribs and thigh, but still, fun morning. 😀

I want a fancy longboard now!

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Whale!

2014-OBL-02-24

Surf: 7.9 ft at 11.4 s from the W at 280°

Snuck out for a quick surf this morning. With the smaller swell and high tide, it was soft out there, but rideable. I didn’t really get any solid waves, but it’s been over a month since I took my fish out. My expectations were appropriately dialed I think.

One highlight of the morning, a whale swam by pretty dang close to us, surrounded by a pod of dolphins. I think that’s the closest I’ve been to a cruising whale.

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Post-storm

2014-LM-02-12

Surf: 4.6 ft at 11.4 s from the W at 268°. High Tide.

Not as groomed and smooth as last week, but still a fun little morning of logging. Saw plenty of friendly folks. Water seemed clean enough. Did a lot of delayed pop ups into grab rail hand drag loggy stunts. Not terribly much else. 🙂

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Rain!

2014-LM-02-06

Surf: 3.0 ft at 12.9 s from the WSW at 256°

This winter has been plenty of those big, east wind, bright sun days with hardly a south wind rainy surf in sight. The drought finally let up with this latest rainstorm. I snuck out to get a few waves before the real rain started and the water mucked up.

Smooth grey waves and hardly anyone out. I couldn’t have asked for a better morning.

Today was one of those days where I feel like I actually do know how to surf. I took out the log knowing it would be a small wave day and got just the swoopingiest fastest smoothest rides. 😀 Fun fun.

I couldn’t resist taking a peek at the cams later. Here’s me working on a heelside cross step on a little wave. Wheeee.

Screen Shot 2014-02-06 at 11.29.31 AM

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Hull in SC

2014-SCHK-01-29

Surf: 9.2 ft at 13.3 s from the WNW at 287°. High tide.

After struggling quite a bit lately, I was looking forward to a little Santa Cruz redemption (and a little hull time.) The tide was high, the wind was up, and Cg was having car troubles, but somehow things worked out.

I settled into a nice little takeoff away from the crowd. At first I was worried my crowd aversion was a mistake as I was having trouble getting in to anything. Finally things fell into place and it was a total wavefest.

There was another guy on a hull near me and we traded wave after wave. I finally managed to get into some steep ones and some bigger ones. Fun fun fun. My last wave was just perfect. Swooping, fast, long. Nice to be surfing again. 😀

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Little sloppy

2014-LM-01-28

Surf: 5.9 ft at 14.8 s from the W at 265°

After yesterday’s whompfest turned into better waves than expected, I had a few hopes today would be the same. It wasn’t. I ducked and ducked and ducked and said ehhh screw it, I’m going south instead.

Waves were plenty closed out, but, after struggling for a good long while, I did manage to actually surf some waves. I’m okay only getting a few waves, so long as those waves are competently surfed. Also nice to see a few friends in the water that I hadn’t seen for a while.

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Whomp whomp

2014-LM-01-27

Surf: 6.9 ft at 14.8 s from the W at 272°

Much sloppier than it’s been lately. I was having trouble deciding where to be. A little north: whompfest. A little south: junksville. It was getting a little crowded for whomps so I tried my luck with junk.

No luck.

Eventually I paddled back to whomps and, it was surprisingly less whompy! I got a wave right away! Annnnd it was time to go in. : |

That was frustrating. Even getting a decent wave, I was still feeling like I’d wasted the opportunity to get better. Donuts helped.

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In between

2014-LM-01-23

Surf: 7.2 ft at 14.8 s from the W at 277°

Started out this morning surfing my favorite little spot. I got waves! Slow ones, ones that didn’t always make the section, but a good start! Once that spot got too crowded, we moved north. That was frustratingly fast. I struggled quite a bit, I tumbled around with the board. But, all and all, I wasn’t super frustrated, which was nice.

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Steep Bo

2014-BO-01-19

Surf: 6.6 ft at 16.0 s from the W at 271°

Nice weather for a beach day. Tide was coming in and swallowing up the beach, but otherwise nice.

I think that might be the steepest I’ve seen Bolinas. I faceplanted left and right. Maybe it’s because I’ve been surfing the patch, maybe it’s just this swell, but yeeesh. That was some work.

I did manage to work a wave all the way to the lagoon, so it wasn’t impossible.

Ice cream after. Yum.

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More waves again

2014-LM-01-17

Surf: 3.3 ft at 12.9 s from the WNW at 287°

Whew, back on the upswing.

Got Sigmund’s 7’0 back to Aaron and met up with him out in the water. The waves were back to a reasonable size and there was plenty of sun and water to go around.

Big achievement for the day, going consistently left on a bunch of waves. I’ve been struggling with my lefts since I put my neck out last time, but today was a breeze.

Luke got a shot of me and cg surfing, sort of, since the gopro faces backwards. I’m a little dot, but there’s half a second of me splashing a bit of spray.