Surf: 4.9 ft at 9.1 s from the NW at 312°, low tide.
I’ve been out of practice getting up and getting moving in the morning. The guys were headed to Santa Cruz for a pre-meeting surf and I rolled on to the usual spots. The tide was so low there was barely any water to surf and hardly any waves to chase down. Thankfully all I need is a little bit of room to work on my one step. Step, splash, step, splash. Now if I can just make getting up a habit again, I should be all set.
Surf: 5.9 ft at 9.1 s from the NW at 310°. Low tide.
A little unexpected to be back so soon. The guys had another meeting. Smaller today and I wow was my neck hurting, but still rideable and still kinda fun. I had a little moment of surf etiquette to debate. My friend lives down in SC and was leaving the state soon for grad school. I’d told him we were surfing yesterday, but wasn’t sure if it was appropriate to call him at 4am, when I found out we were headed back, or even 6 am when we were suiting up. Around 7:30 I saw him giving me the “huh?” shrug from the cliffs. Thankfully he wasn’t mad I didn’t give him the heads up. We got a few waves and all was well. After that: breakfast!
Surf: 6.2 ft at 9.1 s from the WNW at 303°
After a solid breakfast an a tour of my friend’s place in Santa Cruz, I headed back out for a few waves more. Sunnier and a little more crowded, but still fun. Since I got so many waves in the morning I opted to work on my steps. I managed to do a full step over step over step cross step all the way to about 5 inches or so from the nose. YESSSSS. Once I get a little more confidence, maybe I can cheat a five or something. Rounded off the wave walking back for a little move, too. Starting to get somewhere! I just need more surf days and more smooth waves 😀
Surf: 5.9 ft at 9.1 s from the WNW at 298°
Taking my new board out in Santa Cruz has been high on my list of summer goals. Today was a good morning for it. Small, clean, super chill. That board is so buttery! It swoops. I got in a few steps, too. Loving the new style. I’m going to have to work pretty hard to catch up with what the board can do, but I’m looking forward to trying. 🙂
Surf: 2.6 ft at 13.8 s from the S at 184°
Took the new board out at the home break today. 😀
Surf was pretty sloppy and a little mushy, but still plenty fun. I surfed for a while while Chris took the handplane. We swapped after a few waves. I was hoping to get another opinion on my board. So far, so good. I got some great rides on the handplane, too. Pretty good end to the holiday weekend!
Surf: 2.3 ft at 12.5 s from the SW at 231°
Slept in a little and packed up the van. We decided to take advantage of the Monday-morning status by hitting up Old Man’s.
People down here keep saying the surf is “weird.” I haven’t figured out exactly what that means. I guess it’s a little windy? It’s still plenty surfable and I’m happy to have it.
After having waves pretty much to ourselves all weekend, it was a little adjustment to being around so many people. It all worked out. I rode some bumpy waves through the crowd and made some little ones work all the way to the beach.
Not a ton of stepping on this trip. I guess I’m still getting used to the board? Not quite confident enough to really walk. Still, this has been a blast. I saw Chris get great waves, I saw folks from the luau get great waves, and I got so many waves. Fun fun fun.
We washed off, packed the boards, and headed back north. Had a lovely dinner on the way back up and saw an amazing sunset.
YAY road trip 😀
Surf: 2.3 ft at 16.7 s from the SSW at 206°
Camp may being emptying out, but the surf is still up from this morning. We tried the next trail up (I was beat from all the scrambling on the regular trail.) It was fun. Everything was a little gloomy and sort of reminded me of Montara (biggerish waves and an almost empty lineup.) A few sets has be feeling not so comfortable, but for the most part, I was getting stuff and making something out of the closeouts.
They were setting up for some sort of firefighter’s surf competition in the morning. Seems like the waves should still be good for it.
Got back up near sunset and cook up dinner in the dark. Our van has been so cozy and wonderful, I’ll be sad to have to give it back!
Surf: 2.3 ft at 18.2 s from the SW at 220°
Wow, the surf got bigger. I wasn’t checking the buoys (other than photos I was trying to go low-tech in the van) so I was quite surprised when I scrambled down the cliff. It had gone from lovely little waist to maybe chest high waves to shoulder high and up. I looked at my big board and gulped.
The board was a breeze to paddle out. The surf thankfully stayed pretty soft so I wasn’t battling too much. The board can take a bigger wave, which is good to know. I hadn’t expected the board to do all that much more than be a noserider, but I can hold up pretty well. Granted, I haven’t tried it in a steep wave yet.
Everyone’s packing up back at camp, it looks like there will just be a couple of us tonight. There’s quite a few people from the bay area. We’ll have to do a Surf-a-pig Northern CA luau sometime.
Surf: 1.6 ft at 15.4 s from the S at 185°
More surf! More sun! 😀 Little more wind…but still fun!
I’m loving this board. I’m surfing my arms into jelly (and hiking my legs into mush) but loving this board and this trip. Yeah, there’s some wind, but it’s so nice to be able to just get out and surf.
Went to be at sundown. I was too beat to stay up and chat. Zzz.
Surf: 1.6 ft at 15.4 s from the S at 191°
Back down the cliffs for more waves! 😀
If there’s one thing I love to do on little surf trips, it’s surf the ENTIRE time. And when I’m not surfing, eating or napping works too. Chris is on a mission to try ALL of Mike’s pigs, which aligns very well with my “Always be surfing” mission.
Mike’s boards are amazing. I was too chicken to try any of them, but very stoked to watch Chris surf them all. Wow. Maybe next year I’ll have the guts to take them out (plus the arm power to get those beastly boards up and down the cliff.)
Got to try out my Seea surf leggings today. Love them. There will be a review later.
Chris also got a lovely little video of me surfing. Wheee. Just a quick fun little one. I almost blew it. I’m pretty sure that happens almost every time the camera is on me ad about half the time when it’s not. 😉
We got back up just about the time the pig roast was kicking off. I was so beat I totally missed that that was what was happening, went back to the van and napped. Oops.
Goals for next year: ride pigs, eat pigs, be more social.
