Tag: california

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Jetty

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2014-JT-09-17b Photo by sarahvgrives on instagram

Surf: 2.6 ft at 21.1 s from the SW at 214°. Incoming tide. Calm winds.

I know I’ve said this a few times, but I’m trying to get back out there, slowly but surely. Today’s plan was to go walk on the beach if I was too sore to surf (or there was no surf.) After checking a few spots, I was in the tricky situation of: 1- that wave looks really fun 2- it’s the only thing breaking and 3- it’s also a little too big/steep/closed out/excuse for what I was hoping for for an easy morning out. It was also too crowded to bodysurf safely.

I paddled out with a plan of mostly watching and picking up the little mushy waves. Saw Greacen get lots of really fun long waves. There were some grom kids shredding till mom yelled at them to come in for school. Seals swimming around. I did catch a few softer ones. It was tricky with everyone trying to go for every way, but I got one or two solo waves that made the paddle out worth it.

Also have enough sand in my ears for the rest of the year. Uff.

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LZ Surf Team

2014-OBP-09-13

Surf: 2.3 ft at 10.0 s from the WNW at 290°. Windy.

Brief LZ surf team outing in total slop waves was actually pretty fun. Nice sunset, nice views of the headlands, a little bit of bodysurfing, and silly sloppy waves.

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Beach day

2014-LM-09-07

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Surf: 3.0 ft at 16.0 s from the SSW at 197°

Sunny, warm, with tiny waves, perfect for a beach day with lots of groms. After a thorough check of semi-grom friendly spots, we set up camp on the beach. Groms on boogie boards, groms on soft ops, groms on beat up surfboards. Lots of folks getting waves and having fun.

I surfed for a little bit, bodysurfed for a little, and attempted to boogie board before my shoulder said “nope, no boogie boarding. This is where we draw the line.” At that point I had snacks on the beach.

Groms got all kinds of waves. 🙂

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Labor Day + Franklin Point

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2014-LM-09-01

Surf: 5.6 ft at 8.3 s from the NW at 306°

Last minute weekend getaway on the coast!

Meghan had some extra space on her tent-cabin camping trip so I tagged along. It’s a great spot, plenty of hiking including a nice hike out to the dunes and cliffs Franklin Point. What a view! As the sun started to go down, there were hundreds of searbirds diving just offshore. Pelicans, gulls, cormorants, all kinds of birds. Total amazing mayhem.

The next day we walked to other direction to check out some tidepools.

Ant the way back we met up with some friends in Pacifica to cool off (so hot this weekend!) The rips were very strong and the shorebreak really stomping so bodysurfing was kept to a minimum. Still nice to get wet (carefully.)

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Modest south

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Surf: 5.9 ft at 12.9 s from 170°. Low, incoming tide.

While it’s both a little too early for the Marie swell and Santa Cruz doesn’t pick up much of the super steep south, there were still some fun, clean, tasty waves this morning.

I got some real nice, long, fun-sized waves and worked on cheating my way up to the nose. While I’m not sure how successful I was, I got some really good practice working my way around sections while way up in the front. Whee.

Really nice morning.

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BIRTHDAY!

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Surf: 3.3 ft at 14.8 s from the WNW at 291°

It’s my birthday 😀 Yeeww

With a tent filled with snacks on the beach, I spent hours and hours surfing, bodysurfing, snacking, and pushing Meghan into waves. It was sunny, water was warm, surf was decent enough. So much fun. Meghan got three pretty good waves! She was starting to get on the face (with a little push from Chris in the right direction.)

I got some great bodysurf rides. Probably one of the best I’ve gotten without a hand plane. Most of the board rides and bodysurf rides were almost right into the sand. Pretty punchy for little waves!

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Following day (after much sleeping in) I did some kayaking on San Pablo reservoir. So swimming here (aww) but so pretty! And perfect weather. Just enough breeze to keep cool. Plenty of sun. Super nice day. Had a picnic on a rock!

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Lovely lovely weekend. Birthday stoked!

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Morning party waves

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Surf: 4.3 ft at 11.4 s from the W at 276°

Fun little waves this morning. Plenty of people but still plenty of space to share a wave. I worked on a few steps, even sharing a wave with Chris while trying to sneak up the nose a little. Sure, it was small, but there were a few that were worth getting up and driving down for 🙂

Big highlight of my morning was surfing and paddling a ton without totally wrenching my neck and shoulder. I’ve been doing physical therapy trying to get all these aches and pains under control. I was bummed to hear “stop surfing until your shoulder is better”(as well as “stop drawing”!) Naturally, have not stopped doing either of those things (with plenty of wondering “Gee, why isn’t it better?”) I’ve been doing my workouts, stretching often, and I’ve been trying to focus on my posture and my paddle form. So far, so good. I am surfing less, but I feel like having some form of activity is healthier than just laying in bed expecting a magic recovery.

Just being able to make it through a session with only minor necktweak pain is a pretty big win.

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Cheese puff

2014-OBP-08-02

Surf: 2.6 ft at 7.1 s from the NW at 311°

Yup, windy and terrible as forecasted but not totally awful. I’m dogsitting and snagged DSaka’s wavestorm for kicks. It was actually pretty fun, even with the sloppy messy waves. Weeeheeehooo. Also very nice to walk down to the beach, surf, walk back, and hot in the shower easy peasy.

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Bodysurf beach day

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Surf: 5.3 ft at 9.1 s from the NW at 319°. Windy. Outgoing tide.

It’s been so warm we took advantage of the weather for a beach day. The surf was pretty terrible and my shoulder was acting up again so I traded the board for fins. While I mostly just got drug around by the current, there were some fun little corners and lots and lots of By-the-wind Sailors coming ashore.

After an ice-cream pit stop at Polly Ann’s, I stopped by the north end of the beach to say hi to some friends.

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Warm water

2014-LM-07-24

Surf: 3.9 ft at 7.1 s from the WNW at 290° and building.

It’s been a pretty lousy week. I’ve been running around for work that has been less than rewarding. So, with nothing on the schedule for Thursday, I jetted off to see if I could find some surf. It started out flat and grey, but kinda workable, but by the end, there were waves and there was plenty of sun. I got sunburnt for sure. Oww. Overall, not bad. Worked on some quick turns.

Water is SO warm. They’re saying it’s a record high maybe 65°, hasn’t been this warm since the 80’s. I was roasting. Beautiful weather.