Tag: california

Surf: 5.9 ft at 8.3 s from the NW at 319°. Incoming.

I’ve been trying to get back in to a good surf rhythm again. So far it’s been 1 week on, 1 week off. I’m not thrilled to have an off week, but the on weeks sure are fun.

The waves were a little sloppy in the morning, but were rideable and eventually cleaned up. My blue board really can make the most out of anything so I found a few corners that shaped up into waves. Sadly I dinged the poor board so it’ll be wrapped up in tape till I can get some tint to do the repairs.

Surf: 3.6 ft at 16.0 from the WSW at 238°, less tide but still very high.

Today was a little bit better. Waves were still on the sloppy side, but there was more size and a little bit of shape here and there. It took plenty of patience, paddling, and watching, but really, wasn’t so bad. I swooshed my log around some sections and got a little bit of shuffling in. Last week was too busy to get in any surf time, so I’m grateful for even these less than stellar waves.

Chris has a new flothru fin from Surfapig. He needs more time and better waves to give it a proper test, but so far so good! It looks super cool, too. I can’t wait to try it out.

Surf: 7.6 ft at 12.1 s from the W at 268°

Yay! The south winds are up which means that rain is on the way. I got going a little too early this morning and spent a a good 15 minutes standing around in the dark trying to make out if there were even waves out there. It was much smaller that yesterday and plenty closed but fun enough with the right gust of wind to keep things going. No rain yet today, but it should be coming sometime soon!

Surf: 5.3 ft at 11.4 s from the WNW at 293°

Nice to come back to cold waters when there’s such a beautiful sunrise. As is my tradition, my first day back from nice waves means weird, sloshy waves. Thankfully it was still surf-able and I got to say hello to lots of folks. Wound up making a couple waves work under a very pink morning sky.

Surf: 6.2 ft at 21.1 s WNW at 290°

While still on the smallish side, this long period energy was doing my favorite corners no favors. Maybe it was the wrong angle? Maybe there isn’t enough sediment to make for a decent bar or fill in around the rocks? Not sure, but the little spot I was hoping would shine in these conditions wasn’t really working. But hey, I’ve surfed worse. Had plenty of fun throwing myself into closeouts and trying to hang on till the last possible moment. Not so bad.

Surf: 3.6 ft at 11.4 s from the WNW at 289°

All the forecasts suggested big waves on the way, but the morning stayed pretty mellow. When I first rolled up, the whole ocean was practically flat. I was not expecting that.

Thankfully the early morning window was pretty clean and there were some fun ones mixed in with the waiting. I worked on sticking the rail right in, all the way up to the last bit of wave. It was pretty fun, nice and chill.

Surf: 4.9 ft at 12.9 s from the WNW at 297°

Sure feels good to get a 4 session run in. Yew. Sure, it’s small waves and yeah it’s been a little crowded, but just being able to get up 4 days in a row and surf without doing my shoulders in has been a real treat. Lots of good cruising, lots of swooping and swooshing. Pretty stoked on my little week.

Surf: 5.6 ft at 14.8 s from the WNW at 284°

Wheee, another fun, cruisey morning. Still small, but nice seeing friendly folks and less crowd. Swooping and swooshing along. Watched Chris paddle the beach and back, too. I’m not up for that just yet, but it was fun watching him blast around. The guy can paddle, that’s for sure!

Surf: 3.6 ft at 12.1 s from the W at 272°

Still cruisey, a hair cleaner, and pretty fun for the logs.