Tag: Burros

Posted on

Sunday morning

2013-MXB-05-11a

2013-MXB-05-11b

Surf: Knee to Waist High. Little ruffled but plenty nice.

I took my fish out to try and get a little bit of time in on it. My rides were pretty short. I’m not sure if it’s the waves, or just me. I’m pretty sure there’s a big “me” factor in there.

I’m also missing so many waves. Beamer got a great shot by shot of what happens. Keep in mind that while it doesn’t look like I’m paddling, I am (just not enough.) I’ll be set up properly, but then I don’t quite get in and wind up watching the wave roll on by. Sad. Ahh well. Practice practice practice.

2013-MXB-05-11c

The mid-day winds came up. I decided to re-wax the fish in the shade. I really should have stripped both boards before flying, but laziness won out. After watching all my wax flake off into the ocean, I decided to do the right thing and clean up.

Screen Shot 2013-05-26 at 12.05.30 AM

Posted on

Friday Night – Mexico

2013-MXB-05-10a

2013-MXB-05-10b

Surf: Windy, waist high.

We’re in Mexico 😀 Wooo.

The surf is a bit windblown, but the water’s warm. I took out my hull, perfect for gliding around chop. Sure it was a little closed out, but it was fun out there.

I traded Beamer my hull for a wavestorm. Those things feel so fast. I have no idea why. Got a good laugh out of it.

Ahh warm water.

The place we’re staying is cute and cozy. Much more jungle than beach, but still charming. Beamer and I stayed out in the water past sunset and saw plenty of little glowing jellys, just like the last trip.

We made dinner, ate ice cream and watched movies. Yay vacation.

Posted on

Finally!

Surf: Chest to Head high. Clean.

After yesterday’s timid approach, I wanted to spend my last morning in Mexico giving my favorite spot my all.

I paddled out, I went for a wave, I almost didn’t make the wave and opted for my patented Linda Mar mush move: jump on the nose and get in a good two handed paddle to push you over the edge. It worked.

Keep in mind, I had not yet actually ridden my Vaquero on a wave over waist high. And now, I’m standing on the nose on a head high wave realizing that these boards go really REALLY fast.

Holycrap.

I stepped back mid way through the drop and laid on the rail trying to make the bottom turn. I don’t think I’ve ever leaned so far into a wave without falling over. I made it. SWOOOOSH.

Top turn SWOOOOSH.

Rocks OHNO.

Kickout! WHEW.

I finally got a real wave! Yesssss.

Alan, a regular I’ve seen on our last few trips down, yelled “Nice one, Barbie Doll!” and laughed. “Oh, you got a little board now! Yeah? You gonna get all the waves now!” Ha.

I got another fun swooping wave at the main peak, then headed over to where Aaron was picking off lefts.

I struggled a little bit there for a while. We didn’t have a ton of time. We had to get back, pack up, and hit the airport.

After a few failed attempts to get into something, I got set up perfectly for a nice long steep wave. I got in and the board was off like a rocket. I was barely holding on. I saw Alan on the shoulder. He threw me a shaka and pretended to snap a pic. I hear Aaron on the inside cheering. So, so stoked.

I headed in, happy to have finally got a few good waves in Mexico. 😀

Additional note. If you step on like, a dozen sea urchins on your way in, def get those spines out before sitting on an airplane for several hours. All the spines I got right away: fine. The one I didn’t get around to until after I landed in SF still hurts almost two months later.

Posted on

Familiar breaks

Surf: Waist to Head high. Little windy.

Ahh. Finally away from Sayulita to our old familiar break and some surf time with Ed.

He’d been out a while when Aaron and I hiked in (we had some logistical trouble with the truck) but we showed up just in time to see Ed getting a fun looking wave.

I still struggled a little bit, including nearly taking out Ed in a duck dive gone wrong, but did manage to finally get something fun. Aaron got a really nice one too. I saw him zipping by on his fish.

Mostly I spent the whole time being a scaredy cat. Worrying about duck diving. Fussing about bigger waves. I’m still a little traumatized by last winter. This break is soooo forgiving, there’s no reason for me to treat it like Pleasure Point or Ocean Beach. Sigh.

Ed went on and I got a couple more over at one of the lefts. The last one in, I went to get out at a spot I’ve gotten out at a million times. I waited for the water to get still and saw it was all sea urchins. The whole rock shelf was just black. I shuffled out through a little trench, happy to still have all my toes intact.

We hit up the Oxxo for some Electrolit. Mexico’s adult version of Pedialyte. After frying myself this whole trip, I knocked back a coconut electrolit and ice cream so fast. I’m def getting overheated out here.

We ran into Steve and Jesse who’d just finished surfing La Lancha. They were headed off to look at a boat slip in the harbor. We grabbed some beer and headed back to the house for pool time and dinner. The lightning over the sea looked really beautiful and the tuna steak dinner was, of course, lovely.

Sure, I didn’t get any really substantial waves. Surfing with good people in a spot you love (plus electrolit!) does wonders for a grumpy mood.

Posted on

Last morning surf in Mexico

Surf: Chest high.

I paddled out early for a last morning surf on my 7’0. I got three fun long waves before even getting my hair wet. A gal from Texas paddled up to me and said “that was some wave you just got! and you didn’t even get your hair wet!” I blushed a little. I was having a pretty good morning and caught one in. As I got close to shore, I spotted Aaron with a camera. He motioned for me to go back out so he could get some shots. Of course I didn’t get a single wave the whole time he was on the beach. HA.

I came in, had breakfast, then paddled back out in front of the house, just to squueze in a few more waves and make up for my waveless photoshoot.

I’m so glad I paddled back out. I got a handfull of zippy little swooshy waves in the warm sun. Just lovely. I’m very grateful for all the waves on this trip. I hope to get a chance to come back soon.

Posted on

Monday Night Surf


Beamer surfing at sunset

Photos by Aaron.

Surf: Waist high with a few closeouts.

After a wonderful last dinner at the house, we waited for the evening glass off. All of us paddled out, even Jesse. We spent the evening cheering her into waves. It’s always fun to watch your friends get stoked!

Aaron shot some video of Beamer surfing in the dark. It turned out really cool. It’s mostly dark with a little patch of sunset, then WOOSh Beamer goes flying by.

I stayed out till the last little bit of sunset was almost gone. Bobbing around waiting for a wave I realized, there were phosphorescent shrimp in the water! They were like little fireflies glowing away. I finally managed to catch one in and we started a bonfire. Lovely end to a great day.

Posted on

Sunday Morning

Surf: Small. Thigh to waist high.

Wow, I’ve finally started to get sore. I suppose I’m in better shape than last year to have lasted this long without getting stiff and tired.

The waves were pretty small and with my sore arms, I opted for the longboard. Talked to some friendly folks in the lineup, including a gal visiting from Santa Cruz. It’s a small, surfy world.

Posted on

Saturday Evening Hike

Surf: Slightly bumpy with a chance of chicken out.

The house we’re staying in has a recording studio. Kings of Convenience recorded and album here and sat on the same stretch of wall for their album cover that we do for our surf checks. Beamer and Aaron decided to pay homage. Check out the original.

After our photo shoot, we hiked down the coast a ways to try and find this spot Ed had mentioned. It was a bit of a walk and a lot of rocky scramble. We got to the last bit of walkable beach and the tide was too high to keep walking. Beamer wanted to paddle out and work our way over to the beak from there. I… well, I chickened out. I saw lots of rocky boils and shadows and didn’t go. It was a bit of a walk of shame back to the house break. I surfed mostly to cool off from the hot walk in my 2 mil. Sigh.

Tonight was the supermoon. We went for a bit of night swim to celebrate.

Posted on

Saturday Morning

Photos by Beamer

Surf: Waist-Chest high. A little bit closed out. Chilly.

I try not to laugh when Ed says it’s cold. Coming from water in the low 50’s, even this unseasonably cool spring in Mexico feels like paradise. However, this particular morning was a little brisk, even in my 2mil wetsuit top. I sured with Aaron and Ed a while before breakfast while Beamer got some shots from the shore. The waves were a little bit closed out, but still added up to a wonderful morning.