Bodysurf

2014-OBK-03-23a

2014-OBK-03-23b

Surf: 5.9 ft at 16.0 s from the WNW at 295°

Did another beach day with all the kiddos. There was plenty of playing in the dunes and collecting beach junk. I need to remember to bring a trash bag. There was so much junk already on the beach and I can only carry so much back to the car. I’d love to really round up all the stray beer bottles and other crap.

I brought Blam’s handplane to see if I couldn’t make something out of the junky surf. It was pretty dang fun. I got a couple solid rides in before handing the plane off to the guys to try. Chris got one wave so long it took me a good 10 minutes to find him again. I almost go into a pretty good sized wave, but needed just a few more kicks.

Headed to dim sum after.

Handplane

2014-LM-03-05a

2014-LM-03-05b

Surf: 6.2 ft at 14.8 s from the NW at 304°

Surf looks seriously closed out this morning so I skipped taking my board out and went for the handplane and fins.

I realized how out of shape I am about 3/4 of the way out. Huff puff huff puff. Still, it was pretty fun. Lots of sand in my ears and my eyes trying to get a barrel. I managed to lose BOTH fins on different waves. Thankfully I found them. There’s nothing sadder than one lonely fin.

AM: Linda Mar

2014-LM-01-05

Surf: 3.0 ft at 9.1 s from the WNW at 289°

Took the hull out this morning since the waves were supposed to be small. Good thing, too, it was small, soft, and crowded. Having an extra half foot came in handy. I got one nice, long swooping left, but after that all the waves were short, crowded mushouts.

After a lot of floating around, we switched to bodysurfing the shorebreak. That was FUN, and dangerous, holy smokes. People were surfing the shorebreak, so some waves were a little too much party. All and all, not bad for total chaos.

Chilly bodysurf

2013-LM-10-27

Surf: 4.3 ft at 9.1 s from the NW at 321°. Windy! Cold!

I was so confident in the mehness of the waves today, I only brought the fins. While freezing cold with the wind, it was pretty fun! Splashed around a while and spent the rest of the day trying to thaw out. Brr.

Beachy Sunday, Ocean Beach edition

2013-OBP-10-06

Surf: 3.0 ft at 14.8 s from the SW at 195°. Offshore.

Day 2 of sun and fun at the beach. Waves looked amazing today, but I was too exhausted to face the hollow inner bar un my 7’0. Instead, I body surfed a while. It was ridiculously fun. I got some looooong real waves.

After that, sandcastles, snacks, sunbathing. Wrapped it all up with ice cream and shady’s in the park. Seriously love these kinds of weekends.

Beach day Sunday

2013-LM-09-29

2013-OBN-09-29

Surf: 4.6 ft at 12.9 s from the NW at 309°. Outgoing tide. Light onshore winds.

Super fun beach day today. Friends brought their beach blankets and their kiddos for lots of family fun. We bodysurfed a ton, made sandcastles, and surfed a little too. The swell was coming up pretty fast. I was surprised how much was showing this early. Plenty closed out, but still fun. I got a couple of really fun ones on Brien’s Mitsven. That board is smooooth. I also shouted a heads up to a woman laying on her board watching the shore and not watching the incoming set. She still got tossed pretty good, but at least she knew it was coming 😉

Afterwards hit the Pizza Place and Polly Ann Ice cream. Mmm. Couldn’t ask for a better weekend.

Bodysurf day

2013-LM-09-11

Surf: 2.3 ft at 13.8 s from the SSW at 195° and 2.6 ft at 9.1 s from the NW at 323°.

The surf was plenty small this morning. We surfed the knee-waist high shorebreak for a little while. I got a few wiggly fish rides that were kind of like surfing. Plenty of fun, although nothing impressive.

After a while, we swapped out for fins and grabbed a little peak to bodysurf on. This was probably some of the best bodysurf waves I think I’ve gotten. Mostly because I rarely bodysurf and absolutely because I’m terrible at it. But this time, I actually got in to waves and went somewhere. Woooooh. That was fun.

Sunset bodysurf

Surf: Knee to Shoulder high shorebreak.

Picked up some DaFins before this trip, just for beachies like this. Too whomp to surf (tho there were some local kids picking off rides that ended on dry sand more times than I’d care to take on) but plenty fun on your belly.

Above picture if of Johan bodysurfing a right, and Scott boogie boarding a left. I kinda kept chickening out. I did NOT want a face full off sand. I did finally manage to get some real rides in.

After wearing myself out, I opted for the beach. I peeled off my rashie to find that at some point during thie bodysurf bonanza, I’d scooped up a minnow in my shirt. Poor little dude. Back to the sea you go.

Wonderful dinner. Scott and Steve caught hundreds of pounds of tuna on their fishing expedition. We had tuna steaks, tuna sashimi, tuna sushi, tempura tuna and tuna salad, all on one meal, all deliciously prepared. A-mazing. We listened to the guys tell their sailing and fishing stories till well after the sun went down.

Bolinas Marathon

Surf: Thigh to Waist high. Slow. Cold.

Wow. LONG day up north.

I got up early for a morning surf with Chris. At low tide things were a little closed out on top of being very slow. While throwing ourselves into little dumping waves, it looked like the other side might actually be breaking. We took the 1/2 mile long paddle thataways and caught a few more. I think one or two actually counted.

After 3 hours or so, we met up with Andrew who I’m helping learn how to surf. I spent another 3 hours in the whitewater with him catching fun little rides. When I got too tired to surf, I bodysurfed a while and watched Andrew get a few more waves. It also gave me a chance to test out my new earplugs. My doc says I have the very start of surfer’s ear and if I start wearing earplugs now, it shouldn’t get any worse. The plugs are awkward. I can hear everything fine except myself. My breathing is so loud it sounds like I’m out of breath before I even am. BUT, they seem to stay in place and they seem to be keeping water out.

After all that water time, I was BEAT. Beat and hungry and sunburned. Just another successful California day.

Sunday Evening Bodysurf

Photos by Aaron

Surf: Shorebreak. Always overhead when you’re on your belly.

Luis and Alica have Sundays off which made for a lovely excuse to get out of the house. We went up to San Pacho to check out the break and get a bite to eat. Last year, the surf was just stomping at San Pacho. We watched a guy snap a leash. There was barely even a wave there. Beamer and I brought surfboards just in case with fins and boogie boards as a just in case just in case.

There was a wave, but it wasn’t a good one and there were so very many people already fighting for it. Instead Beamer and I boogie boarded and body surfed a while. It was a sand-in-your-ears good time. We met a guy from Oregon who drives to southern mexico every year in his van. He and his girlfriend were going to drive up to Chicago next to see her family, then back to Oregon. Wow.

We got absolutely pounded by the shorebreak. I think I broke one of the boogie boards. Yipe. Pretty fun, but exhausting!

Afterwards we got an amazing dinner in town. They had vegetarian food for Beamer and delicious everything. Drinks, food. Lovely spot.

The drive back home was long. Mexican roads are a little crazy. We had a bus race up behind us, so we pulled off the road, then the bus slowed to a crawl through a town I was calling Playa del Speedbumps. There’s got to be 50 speedbumps in this town. We stopped at a few Oxxos looking for toiletries and only finding candy before finally making it home for some much needed sleep.