Learning to Surf

Surf: 3.9 ft at 16.0 s from the SSW at 193°.

The morning started totally socked in with fog. We’ve been in a heatwave and wow, is this grey morning ever welcome. This is the summer I’ve missed. Grey, glassy mornings with mellow little waves and an easy paddle. The swell slowed down a bit, but there was still a little bit of a wave here and there to get some practice in. Hoping for more glassy, grey mornings ahead.

Surf: 3.6 ft at 16.0 s from the SSW at 204°

Wow, the ocean was so glassy and pink this morning to match the amazing sunrise. The waves were small, but super smooth. I got in a little cross stepping practice and even found a few lefts were I could really get the rail in and hang way out on the nose all the way into the last closed-out section. Fun fun.

Surf: 5.6 ft at 9.1 s from the WNW at 302°

All long weekend long! Woohoo, got in lots of surf and outdoor time this weekend so I’m super stoked. The weather’s been hot and, even though the waves have been closed out, it’s still pretty surfable and fun. I got a few big swooping waves. Pretty fun weekend!

Surf: 5.9 ft at 9.1 s from the NW at 306°.

Yesss, made it out Sunday, too.

Today made me realize how easy I’ve had it easy all summer. Lots of little waves, plenty of easy rips, and things that could almost be called sandbars. Now it’s all whomp and stomp. I got a workout for a change. Maybe one or two real waves. I’m working on my cutback kickouts, so a whomping wave isn’t all bad. Plus, when I screw it up I really go flying 😉

Surf: 5.9 ft at 7.7 s from the WNW at 296°.

A rare Saturday surf! It was a whompy, crowded, sloshfest, but my goals for the holiday weekend were as follows: Get exercise, get fresh air, eat, sleep. That checks off like two things right there!

After squeezing a few full on waves out of the closeouts, we headed north for a hike and a quick surf check. I saw some dolphins in the lineup, then some frantic splashing that I assumed was someone freaking out about the dolphins trying to paddle away. It wasn’t, I’m not sure what it was. Could have been another dolphin? Maybe trying to scare fish towards the main group? The surfers didn’t look too concerned.

The hike was so much fun. It was sunny and warm, but with a good sea breeze to keep things cool. You could see all the way to the Farallones.

Surf: 6.6 ft at 14.8 s from the WNW at 282°.

I headed out on my own this morning. It was pretty closed out, even with the winds, so the start of the session was not all that great. There were a few rideable waves, but mostly all the usual folks party waved and joked around. But hey, sunny and beautiful, so there’s that.

Surf: 3.3 ft at 9.1 s from the NW at 314°.

Finally got a surf in. The waves were thankfully small and forgiving (but still fun!) Nice to see everyone and catch up. SO many boats, birds, and whales out. Seems like some fish are on the move.