Surf: 5.6 ft at 12.9 s from the WNW at 297°
Yeah, it was a little funky and a little closed out today, but, there were a couple little corners that were working, given enough patience. Chris headed upbeach, but I wasn’t feeling the crowd and found a spot downbeach that was working just fine. I managed to work a couple waves and a couple steps out of the mess. Pretty fun!
Surf: 12ft @ 16s from the NW at 314°. Incoming/high tide. Light winds.
We headed north for a few waves today. I was kind of slow to get going this morning so we didn’t get the “right” tide, but we did get some fun waves. Sloshing off the ramp, I headed left instead of the usual right. The tide seemed too high there and, since I haven’t surfed the left side in ages, left side it was!
The left breaking waves was a bit mobbed. I got one fun one and then thought hmm, maybe I’ll try another spot. I wound up on an uncrowded peak that was plenty fun and more on the peppy side that the whomping side. I had a couple really fun ones where the wave started steep, swooped through some sections, then the last long wall I stepped way up to the front to ride it out. I tried to get all the way on the nose and my foot slipped right off. Faceplant!
Surf: 4ft @ 11s from the WNW at 301°, incoming.
I feel like every time I get back into a good groove, something happens and I’m out of my surfing groove again.
The upside is that, when I am able to get back in the water, if feels almost like I never left.
I’m not feeling great so I skipped the crowd and took a small, inconsistent peak. It was perfect. I got some steps in, I did some swooshing, and I didn’t have to work very hard to enjoy myself. Not bad. Now if I can just do it three more times this week, and next week, and the week after… maybe I can say I’m back for good.
Surf: 5.9 ft at 16.0 s from the W at 272°. Low, incoming.
My shoulder was hurting and the surf was closed out. Perfect for bodysurfing!
Saw a few familiar faces in the water, went over the falls backwards, and got lots of long rides. Fun stuff.
Surf: 7.2 ft at 14.8 s from the WNW at 293°
The forecast and buoys were showing a lot of energy in the water. The thick fog was showing no clues as to wether or not that energy had arrived. I opted for the one part of the beach I could see. There were some long lulls like it was a big swell, but for the most part, it was reasonably sized. I saw Chris getting some nice ones on the next peak over. My peak had a few zippy ones. Plenty of closeouts. All we need are some sand bars and we should be set for some fun this winter.
Surf: 4ft @ 9s from the W at 276°
High tide, more swell, more wind all add up to more work. Still a few fun ones out there, but a lot more closed out and a lot more paddling. Hopefully days like this will get me back in fall shape.
Surf: 4′ @ 9s from the W at 275°. Outgoing. Light offshore.
I had low expectations for the morning. Paddled out to find a fun little right. It took a fair amount of speed to make the steep inside section so no cross stepping practice today. It was all drop, turn, and swoosh along a good high line. I had a couple so steep it felt like only the smallest edge of the rail was holding on. Whew!
Great foggy sunrise this morning, too. Light fog all around the little cove. Lovely!
Surf: 5.3 ft at 13.8 s from the WSW at 256°. Incoming tide. Windy.
I made it back up north despite fighting off a cold. I thought surfing while sniffling could either go well and I get a nice sinus wash, or poorly and I’d be miserable for the rest of the day. Thankfully it was somewhere in the middle. I tried not to overdo it out there (although on a day like today it’s more chasing waves than surfing waves) and snoozed in the afternoon to shake off the rest of feeling lousy.
I did manage to get a good wave or two out there. It was breezy so lefts were really all that were available. It was lumpy, so there was lots of paddling after nothing.
Still, nice to get some fresh air.
Surf: 3.9 ft at 11.4 s from the WSW at 254°. Incoming tide.
The surf really came down from Tuesday. There were dribbly, shallow waves and not much else. I couldn’t tell if it was my sore back or having surfed my 6’10 earlier in the week, but I was surfing pretty terribly. While floating around, blowing waves, I saw a sea lion rolling on it’s back, waving a flipper at me. Hiya!
Eventually I got a wave in that was slightly competent and figured ehh probably good enough.
Surf: 5.9 ft at 12.1 s from the NW at 304°. Incoming.
I’ve been looking for an excuse to take my hull out for a while. I figured there might be some size and was hoping my usual spot would have some waves on offer. Oddly enough, it didn’t. There was a choice of large closeouts and small closeouts. I went with the small ones and was able to work out a wave here and there with my 6’10. I was mostly relieved I still know how to ride it. I even got in a fancy (but mostly accidental) cutback with some spray.
