Month: May 2017

Surf: 4.3 ft at 14.8 s from the SW at 220°. Low tide.

I spent the last week in Colorado far from the ocean and 5,000+ feet above sea level. It was fun. I hadn’t ridden a horse in 20 years so chasing after cattle in the Pawnee National Grasslands was quite the adventure.

Still, by the end of the week, I was missing the coast and missing surfing.

Conditions this morning weren’t great. I don’t have time these days to go hunting for a better swell angle or a beach that takes the tide better. I just have to paddle out and into whatever I can.

There were a few gems. I got a step or two in and some fun cutbacks. I was glad to be out.

I really wish I was able to get out more often, especially ahead of my big San Onofre surf trip. I miss seeing friends in the water.

Surf:  5.9 ft at 7.1 s from the WNW at 293°.

I wasn’t sure about this morning: winds looked high at the buoy, it was a short period swell, and the tide was kinda high… but I’m glad I gave it a shot.

There were a few corners working. Small, but pretty decent. The current was booking and one spot proved challenging enough to stay on that I had the whole peak to myself. I didn’t expect that on a nice day.

It’s been a challenge getting in the water lately. Work. Stress. Travel. I almost didn’t go out for those two reasons alone. I’m glad I did.